Customizing the Mama Vicki

Years ago, I joined a healthy living/weight loss challenge at work. The organizer knew me personally and was short on team leaders so she asked me if I would lead a group.

{I have a hard time saying “no.”}

Within one minute of meeting with my team, one of the ladies asked me what my qualifications were to lead the group.

Once I recovered from being put on the spot, I confessed… None. I had zero qualifications. She was greatly displeased…

So, here we are today to discuss making underwear and I confess to you – I have precious little “expertise” in making undergarments! But I can sew and this is truly a super simple make. Two pattern pieces… a bit of elastic and lace… and voila! You have a pretty perfect pair of underwear!

{This is me… wearer of underwear, but neither expert maker nor model of underwear. You get flatlays today. Haha!}

I was part of the testing group for the Made for Mermaids Mama Vicki pattern and had a great time trying out different ways to customize the pattern. While they are all hipster-style briefs, it offers high-, mid-, and low-rise options. I’m going to show you a few different ways to dress them up, using the low-rise style.

The pattern directions are incredibly simple to follow so I won’t be sharing a step-by-step for making the garment itself.


For these two versions, I used Phee Fabrics’ rayon spandex. Rayon spandex is the softest, silkiest, dreamiest knit fabric I’ve ever worked with. It makes an amazing pair of underwear!

I was inspired by my favorite style from Soma Intimates and decided to add a pretty lace detail to the front.

There is no right or wrong placement of the lace detail, but you want to make sure the sides mirror one another. I measured in 3.5″ from the top edge and 3″ from the leg edge to ensure identical placement.

I attached the lace with a small zigzag stitch and trimmed the top and bottom to match the curves of the garment.

The pattern instructions direct you to add the trims – be it picot, lace, or standard elastic – and “join” them in the side seams. Here’s how that process looks:

Stretch the lace to fit the length of the entire leg opening!

Then, sew up one side of the brief. Repeat the process with the waistband elastic. Sew up the second side of the brief.

And here’s why I don’t like this method…

It’s tough to match up the fabric and trim. However, if you look at any of your RTW undies, you’ll see the same method used.

I prefer to join in the round – meaning sew a circle from your trim or elastic and attach once the brief is already assembled. It’s a little more work, but it makes for a much cleaner look. That’s what I’ve done with this pair.

I’ll demonstrate joining in the round with my next pair.

Once you’ve attached your lace, you’ll want to trim your fabric to match the curve of the lace.

I love these!!

Fold-over Elastic

Fold-over elastic (FOE) is a great way to finish the edge of an undergarment. It’s very easy to work with! Just fold over and sew with a zig-zag stitch.

I really “went fancy” with this make and added some wide lace to the sides. To do so, I basted the edges of my briefs together.

I then attached the lace by lining up the center of the lace with the side seam and sewed the edges with a zig-zag stitch.

I trimmed the lace to match the curve of my brief and then cut out the fabric behind the lace.

I prepped my trim for joining in the round by sewing the seam allowance of my FOE to create a circle… Matched the quarter points of my brief with the quarter points of my FOE…

Then attached with a zig-zag stitch.

So simple! And such a clean look all around.

Mixing Fabrics

I consider this fabric match both a win and a fail.

I swore I’d use every scrap of my beloved oatmeal rayon spandex from Phee and I had just enough left for a front panty panel. I paired it with Phee’s camo powernet and did a simple black picot elastic trim.

The pair didn’t photograph very well, but I decided to share anyway! They aren’t as wonky as they appear here.

Why a win? Talk about lift, ladies! Powernet is as awesome for lifting the backside as it is the girls…

Why a fail? Size up when using powernet. This experiment resulted in a VERY cheeky pair of briefs, which I will totally wear, but will definitely be sizing up for my next pair!

I think the biggest lesson that I’ve learned in prepping for this panty party is that it’s okay to experiment with different design ideas when you have a winning pattern. And panties are the ULTIMATE use for leftover scrap fabric. When I think about how much I’ve spent on underwear in the past, it’s exciting to know I have the ability to make a better fitting garment with supplies I already have on hand.

Now, I just need a bigger underwear drawer…

Sew-With-Me: Evie La Luve Frankie Panties

Ah the granny panty. The comfy panty. The period panty. The sleeping panty.

Whatever you call them, most of us have them and we love them though we don’t want people to ever see them or know how much we love them. But they don’t have to be something that we hide, comfy panties can be just as pretty to look at as the rest of our lingerie drawer, especially for those of us that are able to sew our very own! My personal go to for comfy, every day panties is style five of Evie La Luve’s Frankie panties. This are a nice full coverage, a side waistband, and are super comfortable for both everyday and all of the lounging we usually associate with this “kind” of panties.

The Frankie panty pattern can be made classic, and simply like I am showing here or lacy and sexy. There are many different views included in the one pattern giving it great bang for your buck! I shared a few different lacy versions, all from Phee fabrics on SewUprising if you are interested in checking out more of what this pattern can do! Continue reading

Sew-With-Me: OhhLuLu Delphine Thong

Okay confession time. I hate wearing lace underwear. Its scratchy, they never move with my body like I would like them to, and they tend to get ripped/worn incredibly quickly. And lace thongs? The literal, absolute worst.

So I decided to take the opportunity of the #pheenominalpantyparty to refresh my stock of daily go-to thongs in my beloved rayon-spandex from Phee, using my favorite thong pattern of all time the Delphine Thong from OHHLuLu. Now at first I wasn’t totally sure about using rayon spandex for undergarments but after the first one I made, I was totally hooked! It is so soft, so comfortable, and moves with my body in a way most underwear I have owned in the past never have.

The Delphine thong is a super quick sew. I can make a pair now in about 10 minutes but I think even the first time I made this pattern it only took me about 30 to master. For supplies all you will need is your main outside fabric ( I used Rayon Spandex), a piece of cotton panty liner fabric, and some fold over elastic.

Begin by assembling and cutting out your pattern pieces and then cutting out your fabric. For the standard version of this pattern you will need only three pattern pieces, the front, the back, and the lining.

First you need to finish the top raw end of the crotch lining. I like to do this by just running the edge through the serger but it can also be done by folding the top edge back 1/2 inch and topstitching in place.

Then place the back piece and the front piece, right sides together, matching the bottom edge. Place the crotch lining piece right side down, on top of the back piece and stitch in place using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Flip the lining to the front so it is now resting against the front of the thong. The seam should now be concealed. Baste the lining to the front along both sides.

Fold the thong in half so that the side seams touch, right sides together. Sew the side seams.

Now all that is left is applying Fold Over Elastic to both leg openings and the waist opening, making sure to overlap elastic slightly when completing the loop to avoid fraying. This video from Evie La Luve shows how to apply the FOE easily and cleanly.

Give the whole thing a good press (being sure to utilize a pressing cloth!) and your’e all done! Now go make a bunch more, your lady bits will thank you!

Phee Fabrics’ Pheenominal Panty Party – Rad Patterns Panel Undies

I loved the look of Rad patterns Panel Undies, but sewing my own underwear seemed daunting. However, I decided to bite the bullet as part of Phee Fabrics’ Pheenominal Panty Party. I found that not only can I make my own panties, but I can make the most AMAZING panties, and will never go back to store-bought underwear.

The Rad Panel Undies pattern includes so many options, including 3 panty options (hipster, mid-rise, and highrise), and 7 different options for the waist and leg bands (3 options for adding lingerie elastic, 2 options for adding fold-over elastic [FOE], and options for adding either binding or bands). You can also elect to have a crotch seam or not. So many options for 1 pattern!

After making myself a muslin from some scrap cotton lycra I had leftover from another project, I found the fit to be perfect, so I went ahead and used my fabulous Heathered Hot Pink Circular Knit from Phee Fabrics and paired it with some Black Powernet.


The first thing you will need to do is pick your options. I’m going to be showing you how to make the panties using fabric bands, as I don’t like elastic on my underwear. I also went with the mid-rise option, and elected to inlcude the seam at the crotch. This seam will be fully covered by the crotch lining.

Cut out all your pieces according to the pattern. You should have 1 back piece, 1 front piece, 2 side pieces, and 1 crotch lining. (If you elected to eliminate the crotch seam, you will have one front/back piece that is combined.)


Since I’m using bands, I also cut my waistband and leg bands according to the chart provided. I went with the length in the chart, however, I did make my waistband 2.5″ tall and my leg bands only 2″ tall based on how my muslin had fit. If you are using elastic, you can cut your pieces now as well.

Note! Make sure you are using the correct panty option when cutting your bands/binding/elastic! If you picked the mid-rise panty option, you need to use the measurements for the mid-rise panty.


Let’s get sewing! First place the front and back pieces right sides together at the crotch and serge or sew with a stretch stitch. (If you are making the seamless version, you will skip this step.) Once you have serged/stitched your seam, press it towards the back of the panties.

Tip! Be careful when pressing! Make sure your fabric will tolerate the amount of heat/steam you are using. Use a pressing cloth if needed.


Take your crotch lining piece and serge the front and back edges (or use a zig zag stitch or other finishing stitch).


Place your lining piece into the crotch of the panty, lining the raw side edges up the leg edges as shown, and then baste the lining piece into place.

Now take your 2 side pieces and place them right sides together with the FRONT of your panty and then serge/sew along the side seam.

Press the SA towards the front of the panty, being careful based on your type of fabric. Optional:  Topstitch using a coverstitch machine, twin needle, or zig zag/other stretch stitch. I used a zig zag stitch in a contrasting color thread on mine to give it a little detail.

At this point in the pattern, it gives you the option to attach your leg elastic/bands before attaching the side panels to the back of the panty. This option is definitely easier if you are new to sewing, but it’s not the cleanest finish. I’m going to be attaching my bands “in the round,” so will not be using this method.

The next step is to attach the side panels to the back piece right sides together.


Press the SA towards the back of the panty and topstitch, if desired. Your panties are now almost done!

Time to attach the bands. This part can be challenging, but I’ve provided some tips and tricks that I’ve found to be super helpful. They do take more time, so you super experienced sewists probably don’t need to follow them, but if you are a new sewist, they might make your project go a little more smoothly.

I first press my bands in half the long way, wrong sides together, to create a memory fold.


Then open up the short ends and place them right sides together and serge/stitch to create a circle. You can then refold the ends, lining up the raw edges. The memory fold makes this much easier to do!

At this point, I serge the raw edges together so that my band becomes 1 layer to work with instead of 2. Just run the band through your serger without cutting off any fabric.


Tip! If you don’t have a serger, you can also use a zig-zag stitch on the raw edges.

Now, find the quarter points on your bands. We’ll also mark the quarter points on our waistband.

Match up the quarter points and clip/pin. Place the band seam at the back of the panty. Gently stretch the waistband between each point and add more clips/pins as needed to hold the waistband in place. At this point, you can serge/sew the waistband in place, making sure you are stretching the band to fit.

Tip! Before serging, I baste my bands in place. It’s an added step, but it’s much easier to take out a basting stitch than a stretch stitch or serged seam! Also, I don’t have to worry about removing clips/pins while at my serger. Just use a long straight stitch and baste the band to the panty within the SA.

Repeat these steps to attach each leg band. Make sure you place the band seam at the back side seam (where the panel and back meet). Also, while stitching in place, make sure you are fully catching the crotch lining.

Press the SA for all bands towards the panty/away from the bands and topstitch if desired.

And that’s it! You’re done! Try on your new pair of panties and enjoy!


The Easiest Hack for Panty-Pizazz

It has taken me 32 years to accept a truth that I’ve fought so hard to reject. And…that truth is:


Sad face. Because of my shortness, I am picky about my panty and bikini patterns. In fact, I’ve become so irrationally picky that I now draft my own. So, the pattern that I will be using to demonstrate this super easy hack is my own self drafted sport’kini pattern.

BUT! Fret not my dears! This pattern hack is so easy that you can apply it to almost any basic panty or bikini pattern block.

Have I piqued your interest, yet? You’re probably asking yourself, “What the eff is this short chick talking about!?”

Well today, I am going to show you how you can alter any panty/bikini block to incorporate contrast hip panels.

For my hip panels, I used Phee Fabrics camo powernet. The body of the panty is composed of leftover Phee supplex (which is absolutely luscious!). The crotch lining is actually Phee’s nude swimwear lining.




Easy Pattern Hack Tutorial:

Pictured below is my simple bikini block. I chose this pattern over other available panty patterns because 1. I’m short and it fits my shortness, and 2. although I am a shameless VPL (visible panty line) offender, I prefer this cheeky cut because it doesn’t split my glutes into weird sections. But, again, this hack can be applied to any basic panty/bikini pattern!


The first step is to choose how you would like to split up your pattern. For the sake of variation, I’ll show different dimensions than what I actually used for my panty.

So, from the centerline of your front panty pattern, measure and mark a point 1.5″ away from the centerline and above the waistband. Then, about a third of the way down your front panty pattern, measure and mark a point 2″ away from the centerline.

Note: These numbers are truly arbitrary. Just make sure that your second mark is outside of the body of the pattern.

Connect the two points and separate the pieces.


Then, add seam allowances to your cut edges. I typically work with 3/8″ seam allowances, but you could use anywhere between 1/4″ to 5/8″.


Simple so far, right? The final step is to repeat for the back piece:


Et Voila!

Easy peasy! This simple hack is a great way to add variety and pizazz to your panty or bikini collection! Try it out. And, don’t be afraid to be daring! I still have quite a bit of camo powernet left, so I definitely want to try this hack by making the solid pieces smaller.

But, for now, this pair is perfect and comfy for my workouts! And I feel like they kind of match my favorite shirt:


Yes, I’m 32 years old and this Ninja Turtles shirt is still my favorite 🙂


Panty Empowered

Potty training – not for the faint of heart! When I finally decided it was time to start teaching this new skill to my 3 year old, I was terrified. I cried more than I care to admit, but in the end it was definitely harder for me than my son (a mothers worry is FIERCE!!)

So what does all this have to do with sewing? So many people told me, and I thought this would be the “Golden Ticket” to success, “Just let him pick out some fun undies and he will be so motivated and never want to mess them up.” Sounds easy, right?

I did what any mama would do and ran right out and bought those undies. But them I put them on him and I could barely get those suckers on him! How in the world was he going to learn to pull up his own pants or pull them down in time to make it to the potty?!?!

My obvious next thought, which would have sounded insane to me a few years ago before I knew how to sew, was to make them myself. BEST DECISION!

Making undies for kids, and adults alike, takes hardly any fabric, sews up super quick and fit and feel better than anything you can buy in the store. I had bought the SUAT Kids Scundies a while back with plans to make training pants a while before starting and of course that never happened in time. I just went right to making big boy undies. I told my son about it and he got to pick out fabric – ok, he got to approve the fabric I had already picked out but he felt in charge, LOL

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I had scraps from a tank and t-shirt I made him and my husband back in June from Phee Fabrics. The oatmeal rayon spandex is so soft, perfect for little tushies (big ones too!) From cut to sew, two pairs were done in under an hour and he loves them! The best part is that he can get them on and off himself. Knit waistbands and soft, stretchy fabric is perfect for little hands trying to learn a new motor skill of maneuvering clothes – super important when you are trying to empowering kids to be independent and avoid accidents from getting “mucked up” with difficult clothes.

And an added bonus – the cutest little undies ever!!!