Rainbow Skirt Tutorial

Once Phee Fabrics got mustard rayon spandex in, I knew it was time to make some rainbow skirts for my nieces and daughter. So I ordered the following 13 oz rayon spandex colors, 1/2 yard each:

Cherry, Mustard, Olive, Royal Blue, Orchid

If you’re planning on making as many skirts as I did, and want to have matching waistbands, I suggest ordering 1 yard of the heathered charcoal. I used some oatmeal and light heathered gray ribbing that I already had for 2 of the skirts.

Start with a circle skirt pattern, and remove the seam allowance (this will most likely be the side seam). Your pattern piece is 1/4th of your full circle, so it needs to be broken into thirds. I found this easiest to fold the pattern piece as seen below.

Cut one piece of the 3 sections off from the pattern, and that is your pattern piece. You’ll need to add your seam allowance for piecing the panels together, I did this when cutting my pieces out of the fabric with a clear ruler.

Cut two panels from each color and piece together in rainbow order.

You’ll end up with 2 halves of the skirt, front and back. Sew them together to form your circle skirt.

For the waistband, I created a foldover yoga waistband. What’s funny, is that in all this, I finally learned how to use the rolled hem on my serger. I probably could have removed the second needle, but I left it in place, so it looks more like a narrow serged edge.

My Nieces and daughter will love these super soft colorful skirts so much, I can’t wait to see their faces!

Lulu Inspired Vest Hack

It all started with my run for cold lululemon vest. I wear it all the time, but I really wanted black, as mine is purple. I started with the Twig + Tale Trailblazer Vest, as the lines were perfect for what I was after.

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Materials Used

Sizing

I looked at the finished measurements of the pattern to determine my sizing since I knew I was adding a stretch on the sides. I went with the size that was closest to my measurements.

Hacking Pattern Pieces

I highly suggest doing the non-curved back version, as I had to do a lot of hacking to get just the back piece to dip down a little. The curves of my back are not in line with the pattern’s back. When I make another one, I will be doing the straight bottom. Using the straight bottom will also make hacking the side a lot easier.

Using the front side and back side, mark the seam allowance at the armcye. Match these 2 pieces up. Since I used a stretch fabric, I pulled the hem of my pieces to overlap more. I wanted the edges where the side meets up with the front and back to be more parallel to the grain. You also need to add a hem either before cutting, or extending past the bottom SA.

Acronyms Used

  • RST: right sides together
  • SA: seam allowance

Cut

  • Front: 2 exterior, 2 lining (stretch twill)
  • Back: 2 exterior, 2 lining (stretch twill)
  • Collar: 1 exterior (stretch twill), 1 lining (supplex)
  • Side: 2, using new side piece (supplex)

I didn’t do this, but after wearing mine the first time all day, I realized that I should have trimmed the armhole seams off. Learn from my mistake.

Assembly

Before you start, read through all instructions, since this was my first time doing this, there are some steps that could be done in a different order. If you’re an experienced sewist, use your gut, as I know I will be doing it in a different order next time, but I just haven’t wrapped my head around how to go about it.

Pin the front to the batting, making sure to keep everything flat. Baste around the outside within the SA.

Trim batting to line up with the edges of the front. Repeat with other front piece, back and collar.

Quilt the exterior to the interior within the max distance for your batting. I used a triple straight stitch to quilt mine since there is some stretch in the twill, and I wanted to be able to move freely.

Sew shoulder seams of exterior, and attach the collar.

Attach zipper with a basting stitch.

Sew front and back lining pieces together at the shoulders.

Hem side pieces. Don’t be like me and forget how much you added for your hem, write it down. Trying to figure it out was torture.

Pin and baste the side pieces to the back (exterior) RST, starting at the notches and working your way towards the armcye and hem.

Pin lining back bottom (hem) to the exterior back bottom RST, keeping sides out of the way. Stitch together using pattern’s SA, making sure it lines up with the hems of the sides.

Understitch the SA to the lining, starting at least ½” from the side seam. If your hem on the back curves, clip SA, along the curve before understitching.

Tuck sides between the 2 back pieces (exterior and lining), so that backs are RST. Fold SA from the bottom towards the lining. Pin and stitch side seams. Trim SA, then pull it right side out. Press seams.

Flip the front exterior and lining pieces so that they are RST, making sure not to twist the shoulder seams, meeting the hems together. Pin the hem, flipping the bottom of the zipper out of the way, and stitch.

Understitch the SA to the lining from the side seam to at least ½” from center front.

With front pieces RST, pin the side to the front exterior and baste. Work in the same manner as you did the back, to complete the side seam, making sure to turn the SA toward the lining. Trim SA, clip curves, turn right side out, and press.

Pin and baste shoulder exterior and lining together along the armscye. If you didn’t remove the seam allowance from the armcye, do that before basting.

Smooth front lining over to the zipper. Pin and baste in place. I used wonder tape to help with easing the lining to the front.

Match the neckline seam of the lining to the SA on the exterior collar. Pin and baste together. This will be covered with the collar lining, but will help hold everything in place until then. You won’t be able to get right up to the zipper, and that’s okay.

Attach the zipper, stitching through all layers. Add foldable elastic along the edge of the zipper to cover the edge and the SA. This will only go to where the lining stops at the neckline. Leave about ½” past the hem of the zipper to fold under. I attached on one side of the elastic to the zipper, then folded it under and pinned in place for the later. You can do it this way, or attach both sides at the same time.

Pin collar lining to the exterior along the top and front, folding bottom of collar up at the bottom along the zipper. Stitch making sure to stitch along the same stitches you already have from attaching the zipper. If desired, understich the top collar SA to the lining. Turn right side out, and press.

Fold the tail of the foldable elastic up under the zipper towards the inside. Stitch in place and trim any extra.

Pin zipper edge to the lining and top stich from the right side.

Fold collar lining opening under extending just past the seam where the collar meets the neckline. Pin and stitch in the ditch from the right side.

Finish off arm openings with foldable elastic. I slightly stretched as attaching, and this helped to keep everything smooth along the supplex area.

Other things I did

I also hacked some pockets on the front, but they are really small, so I need to figure out better measurements for this. On top of that, I added a windflap to the inside, but my measurements were completely off, so I didn’t share this in my tutorial either.

My official mom uniform

When Melissa said that August was all about capsules, I was a bit overwhelmed. To be fair, I get overwhelmed easily. Here’s a little secret…..I’ve never sewn a capsule! I know, I know. How crazy is that?! However, what the heck do I make?! I’m a stay at home mom and don’t really dress nice very often. Then I realized that all moms need good basics that they can wear ALL. THE. TIME! Clothes don’t fit the same after having kids, so why not make our own? I live in leggings and tanks. And I always need something to keep me warm. So here’s the rundown.

Before I get into the patterns, here’s a little info on fabric. One thing I learned in my sewing journey, is to use quality fabric. Having good quality stuff, makes my work look better, last longer, and easier to make. Phee Fabrics has never let me down. The quality is always amazing! I love that the descriptions are accurate and the fabrics are sourced in the USA.

I bought the Clara pattern from Jalie months ago and finally made them. I have to say, I’m super happy with the fit. The only adjustments I had to make were height adjustments. I will take an extra inch next pair. I wore them to the gym the other day and they didn’t budge. I used black supplex and they feel like I spent a lot of money!!! Not to mention that I can dress them up or down. They can be worn with anything. Also this supplex is so lush, not to mention, durable. I live in leggings made with Phee’s supplex and this stuff lasts! Not to mention, it’s squatproof!

The staple tank from Greenstyle Creations is a pattern thats gotten lots of use. When I got this ribbing material, I knew I had to make one with it. This stuff is so soft, has amazing drape, and great recovery. I’m totally digging it!

The Harper cardigan from Sinclair Patterns Is a free pattern with a few options for length. I did the cropped length with black supplex. I can wear this with just about anything. I can honestly tell say that I will wear the hell out of this

Last but not least..:.The Jalie Julia has become a new favorite pattern of mine also. I love combining the top and the bra into one. I used Rayon Spandex, powernet, 3/8” picot elastic, bra strap elastic, rings and sliders. Oh and I used supplex for the band. I used picot instead of FOE and bra strap elastic instead of FOE for the straps. I cropped the length on this one.

First you’re going to go ahead and put your bra front and back together. I did French seams on this one. I omitted the darts so that I didn’t have to worry about that seam. It’s not that big of a difference. I wouldn’t omit it on the sports bra though. Attach the bottom band. Then we can put it together with the top.

Put the bra into the top so the wrong sides are together. You’ll notice the bra portion is a little smaller. I stretch it to fit, clip and baste. The other thing that needs to be changed is, that back point, where the two pieces of elastic meet….cut off about an inch so it’s a straight line and fold it over. That way you’ll have a clean edge and enough fabric for the picot to be attached and folded over.

Attach the picot like usual. Start with the front, chest edge. Flat side of the picot in line with the edge of the fabric. Attach with a zig zag. Then turn under and zig zag again. The elastic will be the same length in the front. When you get to the sides, you’ll want to add about an inch to the front, so that you can attach the rings. So attach the elastic to the one side, leaving an inch on the front and on the back. Then do the other side.

After than you’ll attach rings to each piece of elastic sticking up. Make your straps with the sliders. And then attach. Hem last and you’re good to go.

So there you have my idea of the perfect mom uniform. Let’s be honest, it’s the perfect capsule for anyone!! All 4 of these pieces will get lots of wear and they have me looking forward to cooler weather. Thanks for reading!

*Note: affiliate links may be used. By using these links, I gain a small portion at no added cost for you. I promise, it all goes to keeping my sewing habit going😊

Tank-spiration

Everyone, I’m alive. Between this (see below) being my forecast for the next week and aftershocks from some silly earth quakes we had earlier this month, I am trying to find my normal back in the sewing room. The perfect project to get me back in the groove (while I await a new sewing machine) is this quick pinspiration that I have been repining for about 3 summers now.

Screen Shot 2019-07-26 at 3.38.14 PMPinspiration

I love the loose drape of the tank top and the high neckline-not to mention the cute cut out with straps! First to start this remake I chose the Tatiania Tank from Stitch Upon a Time. The tank top pattern has the loose flow that pairs perfects with the Rayon Spandex. It already features the high neckline also!

First, to modify the cut out I measured approximately where I wanted it to be cut out. I decided on a 5″ depth and 3.5″ width. I measured the spots and drew in a curve to match the shape I was looking for.IMG_0716

Next I cut out all of the pieces and then measured the length of the cut out edge that will have the binding on it and calculated 85% for my cut length. I attached my binding. The next important part is to make sure that you space the cutout how it should be (the top not too close or too far away to ruin the shape of your cut out). To do this go back to your pattern pieces and measure between the fold line and where your cut out edge was. On my pattern piece above this is 1.75″. From here I measured 1.75″ from the centerline of the neck piece to ensure it was properly aligned.

IMG_0720_inside of garmet_cropoutside of garmet

Next, I created the cross bands by using extra binding sewn shut on itself. I spaced them evenly apart (I need some practice on that one). A word of recommendation here, stretch your cross bands a little so you don’t get flip or sag to it (like my middle one).

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Over all I am very happy with my version. Next time I think I will add some clear elastic to the arm hole (it is a hem and not a band or binding) and potentially in the neck band itself for a bit more structure.

This post contain affiliated links, at no cost to you, I receive a bit to help fund my hobby of sewing and blogging. Click here to show the love

 

Mermaid Dreams

This summer I’ve been on a big swimsuit sewing kick. We spend lots of time in the pool, so I guess it makes sense for me to make all the bikinis. I’ve spent the last few weeks scouring Pinterest for good ideas to copy. I ended up with lots of swim inspiration. This one really caught my attention though.

I’m in love with this cerise tricot from Phee Fabrics. The color is so rich and beautiful. I’ve worked with other swim material and have been so frustrated. Swim material can be difficult to work with but this stuff is not. Even though it’s slick, it doesn’t fight me every step of the way. I’ve also been really happy with how well it’s held up. I lined it with the bisque liner. This lining is the best quality stuff I’ve worked with. And my machine doesn’t try to eat it, which is so awesome. I did the adjustable straps so I used my rings, sliders, and 1/4″‘clear elastic from Phee also. If you’re looking for clear elastic, look no further. It’s so much cheaper than anyone else!

This ruffle hack is super easy. You could do it with most patterns. To get this specific look, I used the Heiress top from Swim Style and for the bottoms, I used my favorite bottom pattern ever..the Manhattan bikini bottoms from Miko suit supplies. I have the fit perfected on these so I have no desire to try another pattern right now. Haha!! Honestly, I love that they are cheeky but don’t freaking move. I can chase after my kid without a care in the world. Also the instructions for this pattern are so well written, with lots of detail.

I was impressed with the Heiress top pattern. Lots of detail to help you make an amazing suit. I’ll size up next time and try that but I do love how the top fits. I’ll probably throw some powernet in there also, which I didn’t even think of when I was making it.

For both the top and bottom, I measured how far I wanted the ruffles and added a few inches to the length. I did 3″ but you can do more. The pieces were 1.5″ In depth. I also kinda rounded the edges on one side. You can see that in the picture. I just used scraps.

  • To ruffle them, I did 2 basting stitches at the top and gathered it. On the top, I pinned it in place when I was doing the final underbust stitch. And then zig zagged on. Same thing for the for the bottoms but I would definitely add on the ruffle when first putting the leg elastic on. I waited until I was doing that second pass through with the elastic. Both work though. But it was kinda a pain doing it on the second round.

I honestly feel like a mermaid in this suit! It turned out better than I even imagined. I think I’ll size up the top next time. I feel like I could easily have a Janet Jackson experience in it now. Now I just need to find a beach to lay on….and someone to watch the kid! Thanks for reading!

You’re my “Phee-piration”

I know I am not the only one who spends their Sunday nights staring at Pinterest, pinning away. It is the modern answer to a vision board (something I never would have had the patience to do, lol!) And Pinterest has slowly become one of my very guilty pleasures.

My boards are mostly, you guessed it, sewing related 🙂 I love clothing and used to tear out magazine pages, and then immediately misplace them, for inspiration. Now I just have a bunch of boards dedicated to different designers, seasons, styles and of course, FABRIC I love! So you know I have a board dedicated to @pheefabrics which I have aptly named, “PheeSpirations.”

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Not my photo – Pinterest Image

And then this came up, I swear in the same color as the Khaki Steel Tricot although I can no longer find it anywhere, and I knew I needed to recreate it.

To be completely honest, it has been a long time since I have actually wanted a real one piece swimsuit, RTW or me-made. I have a longer torso and for a while I was intimated by adjusting a pattern to fit. The good news about sewing swim is that it generally does not use much fabric, compared to say a dress or even a shirt. So my theory was that even if I needed to make 2 or 3 I would not blow through my entire stash.

And of course, first times the charm! (mostly 😉 ) I used the recently released Minute Maillot  from Patterns 4 Pirates as the base, and didn’t have to do much to get the look in my Pinspiration. I adjusted first for my height by adding 1 1/2″ in length and then lowered the back by about 2 inches, following the curve on the pattern piece. The elastic for the neckline needed to be adjusted for the change in height. I used the pattern as written for the high rise leg and low front neckline.

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Then just to add the fun cage back, the “piece de resistance”! I cut long piece of the same tricot, 1 1/4″ wide (although I would make them 1 1/2″ the new time). right sides together and serged down the long sides, used my handy tube turner and cut to the size I wanted.

I just pinned the straps in place where it looked closest to the Pinspiration and attached them while topstitching the elastic to the back neckline.

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Voila! I absolutely love the color of this fabric and it is heavy enough to not need a lining. I did add the shelf bra as mentioned in the pattern (this is fully outlined in the pattern already) and used only @pheefabrics powernet and elastic. There are steps for adding bra cups, but I tend to feel covered and supported with just Phee powernet.

I hope this helps inspire some fun Pinspirations, err, Pheespirations 😉 Make sure to follow @pheefabrics on Pinterest here for more great ideas!

Happy Pinning!

– Liz –