Sew It Slow: Day 6

Sew It Slow Day 6

If your following along, share your progress using the hashtag #PheeSlowSew on social media. Don’t forget to catch all the posts for the sew along here. If you finish early, don’t forget to enter a photo of your creation!

  • Betty: attach bodice to skirt
  • Cabin: yoke
  • Cielo: shoulder seams
  • Fireweed: waistband (attach waistband to bodice for circle skirt)
  • Floreat Sleeved/Sleeveless: back seam
  • Geranium: skirt seams + gather/pleat skirt
  • Hinterland:
    • Sleeveless: armhole facing
    • Sleeves (set-in), hem/face sleeves
  • Larkspur: back seam
  • Matilda: yoke, bodice side seams
  • Sedona: back pleat (optional) + back yoke
  • Trevi: shoulder + side seams
  • Washi: shirring dress back

Techniques

  • shirring – The video on this is being postponed to this weekend. If you need something now, Made by Rae has a great tutorial on her website here.
  • gathering
  • sewing sleeves
    • flat
    • set-in

Sew It Slow: Day 5

Today’s videos are all about how to sew zippers! My favorite zipper is a hand picked zipper, the look of it is so unique, and you can pick a thread to match your fabric or stand out. A hand picked zipper will add so much charm to your hand made garment.

If your following along, share your progress using the hashtag #PheeSlowSew on social media. Don’t forget to catch all the posts for the sew along here. If you finish early, don’t forget to enter a photo of your creation!

  • Ashland: front band + attach skirt front to front bodice
  • Betty: bodice and skirt side seams
  • Cabin: back pleat/darts
  • Cielo: back shoulder pieces
  • Fireweed: attach bodice and lining
  • Floreat Sleeved: back zipper
  • Floreat Sleeveless: shoulder seam
  • Geranium: bodice side seam
  • Hinterland: neck facing (bias)
  • Larkspur: zipper
  • Matilda: bodice pockets (optional)
  • River: sleeves
  • Sedona: side seam pockets + front breast pockets (both optional)
  • Trevi: back placket
  • Washi: attach bodice front to skirt front

Techniques

  • zippers
    • invisible
    • centered
    • hand picked

Sew It Slow: Day 4

If your following along, share your progress using the hashtag #PheeSlowSew on social media. Don’t forget to catch all the posts for the sew along here. If you finish early, don’t forget to enter a photo of your creation!

  • Ashland: bodice center fronts, optional buttonholes, attach center fronts to side fronts
  • Betty: stay stitch back neckline
  • Cabin: bust darts
  • Cielo: front pockets
  • Fireweed: should seams + princess seams
  • Floreat Sleeved/Sleeveless: waist tie
  • Geranium: attach the bodice to the lining
  • Hinterland: waist ties + bodice shoulder and side seams
  • Larkspur: facing
  • Matilda: bodice “princess” seams
  • River: pockets
  • Sedona: stay stitch neckline + darts + tie belt (optional)
  • Trevi: darts
  • Washi: pleat skirt

Techinques

  • grading seam allowances
  • v-necks and corners
  • understitch
  • edge stitch
  • pleats
    • pleat
    • box pleat
  • cutting bias tape
  • facings: these use a combination of the above techniques, with an additional video being created for
  • inseam pocket

Sew It Slow: Day 3

For your specific pattern you should be working on the following today:

  • Ashland: skirt darts (note that this is not in order of the instructions)
  • Betty: darts
  • Cabin: stay stitch neckline + weltless pocket
  • Cielo: darts
  • Fireweed: flounces
  • Floreat Sleeved/Sleeveless: inseam pockets
  • Geranium: shoulder seams + flutter sleeve (optional)
  • Hinterland: staystitch neckline (and arms for sleeveless) + darts
  • Larkspur: shoulder seams + collar (optional)
  • Matilda: skirt pockets + skirt
  • River: staystitch
  • Sedona: button wrap folds + buttonholes
  • Trevi: staystitch neck and arms
  • Washi: darts

Techniques

The technique videos below include:

  • staystitching
  • darts
  • bias tape
  • seam finishes
    • stitch + pinked
    • turn + stitched
    • single overlock
    • double overlock
    • French seam
    • French piping
  • weltless pocket: Blueprints for Sewing already has an amazing tutorial on how to do this, so check it out here.
This one isn’t in today’s schedule, but I thought it would be good to give it to you early.
This is great for a decorative finish around the edge of a pocket, along the top and bottom of a waistband. There are so many different options for using this technique.

Sew It Slow: Day 2

Sew It Slow Day 2

Today you should be working on fit adjustments to your muslin and after those have been made, you should cut out your fabric.

Techniques

I have a couple of technique videos for you today, which will help you if you have pieces that need to be interfaced or are thinking about underlining. The underlining video also talks about glue basting which you can use while sewing anywhere that 2 pieces of fabric are being basted together.

Why Should I Sew a Muslin?

This post is part of the Sew It Slow Sew Along, you can view all posts here.

If you’re unclear of what a muslin is, it’s a test garment made from inexpensive fabric, typically muslin, but you can use any fabric with the same drape and structure as your final fabric. The muslin isn’t meant to be pretty or even completely finished.

What are the requirements?

  • Use an inexpensive fabric with the same properties to your final fabric. This is a way to save money, yet still get the same fit as your final garment.
  • Cut only the required pieces. There’s no need to cut facings, linings, pockets, or full skirts. Personally, I don’t cut any sleeves at the beginning, I wait until I know my bodice fit has been perfected, then I sleeves last and then only sometimes one.
  • Make all marks on the pattern so they are visible. Use pen or fine tip marker so you can easily see them.
  • Use basting stitches. It’s just fine to use basting stitches on a muslin, this way if you need to let a seam out, it’s so much easier to do so.
  • Don’t bother with front closures. Any closures in the front that you can easily pin skip them. If you have a back zipper, baste it in place, so it’s easy to remove and use again.
  • Don’t finish your seams. Although you aren’t finishing your seams, it’s still a good idea to press them.
  • Try it on! Use pins, colored pens, whatever you need to mark any changes that need to be made to make the fit better. Wear the same undergarments you plan on wearing under the final garment when trying on the muslin.
  • Transfer the alterations to your pattern pieces. Any changes you need to make, don’t forget to transfer them over. If you need a lot of changes, then sewing another quick muslin isn’t a bad idea. I once sewed 3 muslins of a bodice till I had the perfect fit, and while it was tiring, it was the best choice I could have made because there was no way I would have been able to get all the changes in the first muslin all on my own.

What are the benefits?

  • Get a Perfect Fit: You are able to perfect the fit before cutting into your final fabric. Isn’t this why we started sewing our own clothes?
  • Confidence: Since you’ve already read through the pattern and worked through some of it, you can now confidently work on it knowing exactly what you’re doing. If there’s a part in the pattern you feel you need to practice, sew this on the muslin, to practice it first to help boost your confidence more.
  • You’ll Save Money: Have you ever sewn anything that didn’t fit properly and then it just sat there? I know I have, and it’s because I just wanted to get it done. I didn’t take the time to fit the pattern like I should have, and the 4 yards of fabric I bought was basically a waste.