Tanks

Sewing Into Fall

With August coming to a close, my anticipation is building. Summer is almost gone, and that means Fall is right around the corner! While the temperatures are still reaching well into the 100s, I am preparing (more like dreaming) of the cool days and cozy clothes. Some perfect new fabrics were recently introduced including Ribbing, and my personal favorite, Cozy French Terry. Ideally, what I would’ve done was go and plan out all of my pieces, chose fabric, order fabric, and sew.

Yea right! So what really happened, I got so stinking excited when the Ribbed dropped in store that I ordered about a yard of almost every color. Shortly after, I repeated with the French Terry. Ok, so materials before patterns, no big deal. Spoiler alert though, it worked out and I am so happy with what it all came out as!

The first piece in my capsule was a Valencia Top from New Horizon Designs. I have had this pattern for awhile now and just never quite got around to making it. I did the color blocked version with Navy Ribbing and Navy Rayon Spandex. This top is perfect for lounging around the house or dressing up cute. As a bonus, its perfect for showing off cute sports bras or bralettes!

Next up were a couple of sweatshirts out of the Oatmeal and Light Heathered Gray Cozy French Terry. The “go-to” for sweatshirts in our house is the Greenstyle Creation’s Hudson Pullover. This is a men’s raglan, but that means its super comfy and my husband and I can share sweatshirts! Plus, it is a super fast sew. For the Oatmeal I did a simple pullover with a band and no hood or pocket. For the Light Heathered Gray I did banded, hooded, and a pocket. Also, check out how fuzzy the inside of this is!

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After this I started to fill out my capsule with a couple more. Next I grabbed my Light Heather Gray Rayon Spandex and made a Coffee and Tea Cardigan from Annelaine. I did the Short Coffee option with wide bands/

Next I added a Marbella Tank from New Horizon Designs out of Oatmeal Ribbing and 6″ White Stretch Lace. It is the perfect layer tank and the lace is a beautiful detail.I had forgotten how easy sewing lace really is and will be continuing on sewing lace now that I have sorted through my stash and need some new undies.

The perfect scrap buster for some of the left over Ribbing is the Cozy Toe Socks from Peekaboo Patterns. They go great under boots and are so soft. I did the crew sock option here.

The final addition to my Fall Capsule came after the realization that I didn’t own a pair of plain black leggings. So I ordered some Black Supplex and decided on the free Peg Legs from Patterns for Pirates and did the Contour Waistband from the also free Peg Legs Add-On.

It took me a while to get on the Peg Leg train, but these are a super comfortable leggings for me. Likely, they will not be for working out as the fit isn’t quite right for that on me, but they are comfortable for all day wear.

Overall this Fall Capsule was the perfect jumpstart into fall for me (even though its still in the 100s). It was fun trying some patterns that I have had for over a year (the Valencia, Pegs, Marbella and the Cozy Toes Socks) with the new fabrics from Phee.

Thanks for readying along! This post contains affiliated links, that at no cost to you, help fund my hobby of trying new fabrics and patterns. Thank you ❤

August 31, 2019June 17, 2020 by Phee Fabrics Categories: Cozy French TerryTags: capsule wardrobe, Cozy French Terry, Rayon Spandex, ribbing, Supplex, Tanks, Women 1 Comment

My official mom uniform

When Melissa said that August was all about capsules, I was a bit overwhelmed. To be fair, I get overwhelmed easily. Here’s a little secret…..I’ve never sewn a capsule! I know, I know. How crazy is that?! However, what the heck do I make?! I’m a stay at home mom and don’t really dress nice very often. Then I realized that all moms need good basics that they can wear ALL. THE. TIME! Clothes don’t fit the same after having kids, so why not make our own? I live in leggings and tanks. And I always need something to keep me warm. So here’s the rundown.

Before I get into the patterns, here’s a little info on fabric. One thing I learned in my sewing journey, is to use quality fabric. Having good quality stuff, makes my work look better, last longer, and easier to make. Phee Fabrics has never let me down. The quality is always amazing! I love that the descriptions are accurate and the fabrics are sourced in the USA.

I bought the Clara pattern from Jalie months ago and finally made them. I have to say, I’m super happy with the fit. The only adjustments I had to make were height adjustments. I will take an extra inch next pair. I wore them to the gym the other day and they didn’t budge. I used black supplex and they feel like I spent a lot of money!!! Not to mention that I can dress them up or down. They can be worn with anything. Also this supplex is so lush, not to mention, durable. I live in leggings made with Phee’s supplex and this stuff lasts! Not to mention, it’s squatproof!

The staple tank from Greenstyle Creations is a pattern thats gotten lots of use. When I got this ribbing material, I knew I had to make one with it. This stuff is so soft, has amazing drape, and great recovery. I’m totally digging it!

The Harper cardigan from Sinclair Patterns Is a free pattern with a few options for length. I did the cropped length with black supplex. I can wear this with just about anything. I can honestly tell say that I will wear the hell out of this

Last but not least..:.The Jalie Julia has become a new favorite pattern of mine also. I love combining the top and the bra into one. I used Rayon Spandex, powernet, 3/8” picot elastic, bra strap elastic, rings and sliders. Oh and I used supplex for the band. I used picot instead of FOE and bra strap elastic instead of FOE for the straps. I cropped the length on this one.

First you’re going to go ahead and put your bra front and back together. I did French seams on this one. I omitted the darts so that I didn’t have to worry about that seam. It’s not that big of a difference. I wouldn’t omit it on the sports bra though. Attach the bottom band. Then we can put it together with the top.

Put the bra into the top so the wrong sides are together. You’ll notice the bra portion is a little smaller. I stretch it to fit, clip and baste. The other thing that needs to be changed is, that back point, where the two pieces of elastic meet….cut off about an inch so it’s a straight line and fold it over. That way you’ll have a clean edge and enough fabric for the picot to be attached and folded over.

Attach the picot like usual. Start with the front, chest edge. Flat side of the picot in line with the edge of the fabric. Attach with a zig zag. Then turn under and zig zag again. The elastic will be the same length in the front. When you get to the sides, you’ll want to add about an inch to the front, so that you can attach the rings. So attach the elastic to the one side, leaving an inch on the front and on the back. Then do the other side.

After than you’ll attach rings to each piece of elastic sticking up. Make your straps with the sliders. And then attach. Hem last and you’re good to go.

So there you have my idea of the perfect mom uniform. Let’s be honest, it’s the perfect capsule for anyone!! All 4 of these pieces will get lots of wear and they have me looking forward to cooler weather. Thanks for reading!

*Note: affiliate links may be used. By using these links, I gain a small portion at no added cost for you. I promise, it all goes to keeping my sewing habit going😊

August 11, 2019June 17, 2020 by Jhermansen Categories: Rayon SpandexTags: Activewear, Bras, capsule wardrobe, Hack, Jalie, Pants, Powernet/Techsheen, Rayon Spandex, ribbing, Sinclair, Supplex, Tanks, Techniques, tutorial, Women 2 Comments

Tank-spiration

Everyone, I’m alive. Between this (see below) being my forecast for the next week and aftershocks from some silly earth quakes we had earlier this month, I am trying to find my normal back in the sewing room. The perfect project to get me back in the groove (while I await a new sewing machine) is this quick pinspiration that I have been repining for about 3 summers now.

I love the loose drape of the tank top and the high neckline-not to mention the cute cut out with straps! First to start this remake I chose the Tatiania Tank from Stitch Upon a Time. The tank top pattern has the loose flow that pairs perfects with the Rayon Spandex. It already features the high neckline also!

First, to modify the cut out I measured approximately where I wanted it to be cut out. I decided on a 5″ depth and 3.5″ width. I measured the spots and drew in a curve to match the shape I was looking for.

Next I cut out all of the pieces and then measured the length of the cut out edge that will have the binding on it and calculated 85% for my cut length. I attached my binding. The next important part is to make sure that you space the cutout how it should be (the top not too close or too far away to ruin the shape of your cut out). To do this go back to your pattern pieces and measure between the fold line and where your cut out edge was. On my pattern piece above this is 1.75″. From here I measured 1.75″ from the centerline of the neck piece to ensure it was properly aligned.

Next, I created the cross bands by using extra binding sewn shut on itself. I spaced them evenly apart (I need some practice on that one). A word of recommendation here, stretch your cross bands a little so you don’t get flip or sag to it (like my middle one).

Over all I am very happy with my version. Next time I think I will add some clear elastic to the arm hole (it is a hem and not a band or binding) and potentially in the neck band itself for a bit more structure.

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July 28, 2019June 17, 2020 by Phee Fabrics Categories: Rayon SpandexTags: Hack, Rayon Spandex, Tanks, tutorial, Women Leave a comment

Out with the Winter, In with the Summer

Schools out for most and summer is fast approaching. Here in the high desert, we are already expecting temperatures in the 100s, and its barely June. My sewing room just got a fresh update with a fresh coat of paint and wood laminate flooring (previously carpet) and it feels good to say the least. The pool is going up in the back yard and that means I need a new swim suit. In comes Phee Fabrics Tricot! Ever since I got it, I have absolutely adored the Neon Coral Tricot. Its so vibrant in color, and such a soft material for swim suits or sports bras! Have you seen all of the new colors that have been stocked in the last couple months? That Berry Tricot is on my list for my next swim suit. For the first though, I will be sticking to my first Tricot love, Neon Coral.

Now the hard part, finding the perfect pattern. I scrolled through my folder of patterns (not nearly as many are used as they should be) and came across the Riptide Reversible Shorties by 5 out of 4 Patterns. I had made these before, but skimped out on my effort level and didn’t actually put the side drawstrings in. The pattern itself has great coverage and has the option for reversible or not. I decided to challenge myself, and not take short cuts here (as I am really trying to do in my sewing these days-this will be a constant theme for these bottoms). Making them reversible I chose the Navy Tricot as my secondary color.

The pattern went together very well until I got to the dreaded ‘channels’ for the drawstrings. I marked them and then contemplated skipping them and just attaching the waist band. Luckily, I had the self discipline to just put the project down and come back to it when I felt like doing the channels. That turned out to be 2 days later. I marked the channels with a chalk line and sewed it with a straight stitch on my sewing machine. Afterwards, the pattern recommends to cut a hole in the channel, instead I just seam ripped between my two channels.

My turner made turning the ties easy, and also aided in pulling them through their channels! After putting all of the ties in and basting, it was time for the waist band. The pattern calls for wonder tape, but I don’t like wonder tape, so I didn’t have any to use. I went back and forth on hem tape, but decided to just pin it because that former sounded like a mess.

I started out with top stitching the top part of the waist band so that I would know where the inner seam should be. Then, I folded up the unsewn edge towards the inside of the waist band. I continued around and this this ‘false hem’ on the whole waist band. After that I folded the hem and band down and replaced the pins to pin this to the shorts (with the inner serged edge on the inside facing up. Then I was ready to top stitch and my shorties were done!

I put together a Key West with the Navy Powernet as the inner bra for some added support. Now I am ready to hit the pool and cool down in the summer!

This post contains affiliated links. At no cost to you, I get an earning that helps support my hobby of sewing and blogging to show you my makes (= Thanks for your support! Links to fabric: Navy Powernet,Navy Tricot, Neon Coral Tricot

June 2, 2019June 15, 2020 by Phee Fabrics Categories: TricotTags: clothing, Swimwear, Tanks, Women Leave a comment

5oo4 Escapade Experiment

I literally cannot seem to stop myself when it comes to hacking patterns. I’ll buy a pattern because it’s a cute design, or has lots of options, and I may or may not make it as written. Then I’ll start thinking, “Maybe it would be fun to add…” or, “What if I changed that into…” There are some really talented .pdf pattern designers out there, and I am so impressed by them, because I don’t have the talent to design a pattern. They’ve done the hard work of figuring out fit and design. And I get to do the fun part of personalizing patterns to suit me, or fill a need in my wardrobe.

I bought the 5 Out Of 4 Patterns Escapade Top and Dress pattern months ago, and hadn’t gotten around to making it yet. I love all the options: bikini top; tankini style top, and dress. When I first bought the pattern, I think I planned to make the dress first. I love dresses. And since the Escapade has a built in bra, it’s an easy way to get dressed in the morning! But I usually go to yoga class 4 days a week, so a workout top was a bigger need than a dress. Which is what led to my experiment.

The Escapade is designed to have a drawstring style strap that can be tied halter style (handy if you are nursing or want to easily adjust the strap length), or tacked in place as straight or criss-crossed straps. Since I enjoy Ashtanga and Power Flow yoga classes, there is a lot of movement involved, and I do NOT want any movement or shifting of my straps! There is also a center front tie that gives separation, shaping, and lift to the bra front, but I didn’t want to feel the tie when we do upward bow or other floor work. So that’s what led me to my hacks.

I made my Escapade using Supplex and Powernet from Phee Fabrics. Phee Fabrics Supplex is hands down my favorite fabric for workout wear. It’s moisture wicking and antimicrobial, so you don’t feel all sweaty or get stinky clothes from your workout. High quality powernet, which Phee stocks, is essential for good support when you’re making bras, so I always use it in the front and back of my workout bras.

I cut out all my pattern pieces except for the drawstring strap, since I made that by cutting two 1.5″ x 30″ strips of Supplex and one strip out of powernet. I sewed them with the Supplex right sides together and the powernet on top along the two long sides. I used a safety pin to turn the strap right side out, then pressed it flat.

Esc turn strap

I basted the powernet to the wrong side of the bra front and back lining pieces, then sewed the lining together at the side seams. I also sewed the bra front and back together at the side seams. I turned the bra right sides out, and slid the bra lining, also stocked at Phee Fabrics over it, right sides together. I pinned them together along the top edge, then sewed along the top edge leaving an inch in the center back, and an inch at the bra front top points open.

Esc pinned I used a strip of powernet 1.5″ x 4″ to make my center back strap loop. I folded it in half lengthwise, and sewed it with a 3/8″ seam allowance. I turned it right side out, made a loop, slid it inside the center back opening I had left in the bra, and stitched it in place. Then I sewed 1/4″ clear elastic from Phee Fabrics in the seam allowance along the top of the bra using a zig zag stitch. I stretched it slightly from the side seam up to the bra front points. I also stretched it slightly along the center front from point to point.

Esc elastic Stitch one end of your strap in place at one of the bra front points, turn the bra right sides out, string the strap through the loop and try it on. Adjust the strap length to fit you comfortably, while still feeling supportive. Then turn it inside out again to stitch the strap at the appropriate length, and trim off the excess. I think I ended up cutting a couple of inches off of mine.

Esc straps Because I didn’t want the center front tie, I just made a gathering stitch down the center front of the bra top, and stitched my gathers in place with a zig zag, followed by a stretch stitch to ensure that my gathers stayed in place even with the frequent wearing and washing my workout tops get.

To add interest and a little ventilation to the back of my top, I marked a spot 5.25″ down from the top of the center back bodice, and 2.5″ from the center back fold and cut this triangle off with my rotary cutter.

Esc cut tri Then I cut a 6″ triangle out of my powernet. You can use the triangle you cut out of the bodice, (adding 3/4″ on the two sides to give yourself a seam allowance) as a pattern.

Esc triangles

Stitch the powernet insert in place on the center back, taking your time when you get to the point, lifting your presser foot, and swiveling to continue the seam up the other side of the triangle. I’m not going to lie, my triangle shifted a bit while sewing, and I seam ripped and resewed the point more than once. Oh, the joys of perfectionism while sewing! Use lots of pins to hold things in place, take your time, and hopefully you won’t have to seam rip and resew like me. Press the seam allowance toward the Supplex so that it won’t show through the powernet, and topstitch in place.

You can follow the pattern tutorial at this point to finish up your top. I wore my top to Ashtanga yoga class yesterday, and appreciated the ventilated triangle in the middle of my back. It was a great, rather sweaty workout and I felt cute and comfortable.

I paired the top with my GreenStyle Super G’s, which have powernet side pocket panels, so my new 5 out of 4 Escapade top gave me a cute matching workout outfit.

Esc front Esc back full

Don’t be afraid to try a hack to make a great pattern suit your needs. I will definitely use this pattern again. I think I will try the dress version next. Maybe in circular knit, or tricot… Which do you think?

April 27, 2019June 15, 2020 by Phee Fabrics Categories: SupplexTags: 5 out of 4, clothing, pattern hacks, Powernet/Techsheen, Supplex, Tanks, Women, workout Leave a comment

Lille is Breezy with a Wild and Phee Hack

Late February holds a special place in my heart. With it being the coldest month of the year, I am in my happy place. I have had a nice couple months hibernating throughout the fall and winter sewing away. At this point in the seasons my sewing projects take a turn from warm and cozy to starting to think about summer and the heat that will soon be upon me. It usually takes me a couple weeks to formulate my plan, but Melissa kick started my plan by creating the best combination of fabrics in a mystery box I have ever purchased. Two of the fabric cuts immediately caught my eye: a light gray Waffle Mesh and a purple Waffle Mesh. I had never felt the fabric before, but it was light, soft, and very breathable. It didn’t have support like PowerNet or Techsheen. Very similar to many sport jersey materials. In short, it was PERFECT for my first summer sew!

The inspiration mystery box with the featured Waffle Mesh in Gray and Purple, Tangerine Tricot, Hot Pink Wide Mesh, Plum Supplex, and Gray Polartec PowerStretch (lower left).

The pinspiration that has been lurking on my pinterest for years.

Late last year I tried out a couple of different tank tops, I hadn’t found the one that I would return to. A new re-release caught my eye when Lille from GreenStyle Creations was updated recently. Not to mention it would be perfect for a the coral and navy PowerNet that Phee just got in.

To create this hack I started out with the standard tank top pattern piece cut out. The modification would only take place on the back piece.

With the back piece of the pattern cut out, measure between the center of the neck hole to where you want the bottom of your PowerNet to be. Here I chosen 12″ as my radius.

Use the ruler and mark 12″ marks every couple of inches or so.

Once there are enough dots to connect, draw a line curving to meet all of them. This will be the cut line.

Next is to add seam allowances to both pieces. I start by marking a datum 1/4″ from the right hand side of the paper I am using to add my seam allowance. This will be what I align my fold to.

Next, align your fold with the datum you just markers and mark two alignment ‘notches’ that go between each side of the pattern piece and the backing paper.

While still aligned, mark around the full piece with with your pen.

This this point you should have the full curve of the piece traced and alignment marks on both pieces of paper.

With your ruler, measure up your seam allowance from the alignment mark (3/8″ is shown here).

Align your pattern alignment marks to the new seam allowance alignment mark. The previously traced line will be your new cut line.

Check the seam allowance. Don’t forget to add the seam allowance to the bottom portion also!

Next continue and add the same seam allowance on the bottom portion of the back piece. You should now have two back pieces, an upper and a lower, with seam allowances added to both. Cut both pieces on the fold.

Next is to align the pieces and sew together to make the full back.

I like to start in the middle, with right sides together, and work outward to ensure the straps are exactly centered.

Pins are your friend here. Align your pieces and pin all the way out to the edge. There will be a ‘dog ear’ of the bottom back left over at the edge.

Continue onto the other edge. At this point you are ready to sew. I used my serger, but ensure you use a stretch stitch so that you have the most mobility while working out (or lounging because this will be great for those 110 degree days laying on the couch).

To keep the seam down and out of the view of the net, top stitch the seam down onto the bottom back piece. Use a stretch stitch here also.

I used a 3-needle coverstitch here. Once top stitched, trim any threads and seam outside of the original pattern piece off.

From here follow Greenstyle’s instructions to finish the tank top. This is a great pattern to really practice your binding skills on!

This Waffle Mesh and PowerNet are the perfect amount of breezy and modesty for me. The colors are so beautiful in person and can I just say I hope every fabric is offered in coral this year! The Waffle Mesh was fabulous to use as binding (this coming from a binding disliker myself). I would definitely recommend Circular Knit for this tank and hack. I have my next one planned out with white Circular Knit and some Camo Powernet that will jump into my cart before my next checkout. Thank you guys for stopping by and please show us your version of the hack!

-S