sewing for men

Jedidiah SAL – Supplex w/ an elasticated waist

The sewing for this version of the Jedidiah shorts is pretty quick so we decided working it up in a photo blog would be better than incorporating it into the video series. There are still videos for the welt pockets and zipper fly but the rest of the sewing will be demonstrated in the photos.

For this version I created a welt pocket for one side of the back and then used an elasticated waist along with supplex for a more casual fit. In using a super stretchy fabric like supplex you can size down but I wanted to keep a straighter leg line so I opted to go with his measured size.

https://pheefabrics.com/supplex/

Altering Pattern Pieces

The first step to this was altering the pattern pieces. Attach the back yoke to the back pants piece overlapping the seam allowance (5/8″) and cutting into the top of the back yoke piece so it can lay flat. Mark 5/8 inch down on the back pants piece then line up the bottom of the yoke piece with those marks.

Then you can cut out all of your pattern pieces. Everything is the same as the original pattern except I DO NOT interface the entire waistband.

Make sure to mark all of the notches and if you’re doing the welt pockets the two top pocket placement notches shown here.

Welt Pockets

Next is to work on the welt pockets. You’ll need these size pieces:

For a 6 inch pocket

7-1/4 x 6in in main fabric

7-1/4 x 5-1/4in in main fabric

7-1/4 x 2-1/2in in main fabric and interfacing fused with an additional interfacing for the pants piece

I opted to only do one side with a welt pocket to emulate these rtw shorts travis has but you can do it on both sides easily enough.

Next is the front slat pockets. Supplex is a thick heavier fabric that does allow the shorts to look more professional but can also add bulk if you’re not careful. Since it is so thick I decided not to use the facings for these shorts.

Slat Pockets

With right sides together align the angled edge and stitch, I serged.

For the next step, finishing the bottom of the pocket, the directions used french seams. I found this to be too bulky for the supplex so I opted to just serge the pocket bottom with right sides together.

With right sides together sew along the bottom of the pocket from where the pin is to the folded edge.

Now the front of the pants are complete we can attach the front and back of the pants.

Inseam and side seams

The directions instruct us to use flat felled seams or french seams for the inseam and side seam but I don’t find this necessary when doing these in supplex. I serged both seams using the 5/8 inch seam allowance.

I opted to not use bar tacks on the pockets when using supplex.

You can hem now or at the very end I chose to hem at the very end.

Next I sewed the crotch seam. There is a notch on the fly part of the front pants piece make sure this is marked. Then we need to finish the edges of the crotch seams. I opted to serge these edges. When you sew the crotch seam we sew from the center back down to the inseam and then up until you’re 1/2 inch below that notch we marked.

Serge the raw edges of the crotch seams for both legs.

When you get to sewing up into the fly section of the crotch seam you sew directly from the 5/8 inch seam allowance straight up to the point you marked 1/2 inch below the notch. You do not follow the curve of the fly.

Fly

Next we’ll be stitching the fly. There will be a video for this!

There are two zipper shield pieces. One of them should be interfaced on the wrong side.

FLY VIDEO WILL BE INSERTED HERE]

Waistband

The first step for the waistband is to interface the ends. I used a 4×4 square of interfacing and reinforced both ends of the waistband. I then serged one of the long raw edges and ironed the waistband in half wrong sides together length wise.

To attach the waistband clip the non-serged edge of the waistband to the top of the pants with right sides together with the short raw edges of the waistband hanging over the zipper fly/facing edges by 5/8 inch. Sew the waistband to the main pants distributing evenly.

We’re now going to enclose the waistband starting with the 5/8 inch overlap. Fold the waistband in half right sides together matching the short raw edge.

Pull the main pants, where the zipper is, away from where you just clipped and line up the raw edge of the waistband with the serged edge making sure not to catch the main pants.

Clip along the short edge and along the long edge until the end of the interfacing sandwiching the main paints.

Now pull the main pants out of the waistband so it is right sides out.

Now flip the pants so you’re looking at the back side and we’re going to fold the waistband down using the memory seam we created earlier. Pin the serged edge to main pants enclosing the seam allowance we previously created and using the memory crease to keep the fold even.

The serged edge will be caught in the topstitching.

With the right side out topstitch along the edge of the waistband catching the back side of the waistband. I used a triple stretch stitch and started 6 inches from the waistband edge all the way around to 6 inches from the opposite short edge.

I used a triple stretch stitch for the topstitching.

I measured the distance that I topstitched and subtracted a couple inches to get a rough idea of how long I wanted my elastic to be. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and feed it through the casing. Then, tack the end of the elastic down 3 inches from the short end of the waistband.

Once you have fed the elastic all the way through you can guide it out of the other end and try on to measure exactly how long you want the elastic.

Now we can finish up the topstitching. From your previous topstitch line continue to the inside edge of the waistband.

We’re almost done!

Button and buttonhole

I love these buttons they’re applied with a hammer and look so professional.

Last is hemming!

I serged the raw bottom edge of the shorts and then folded wrong sides together and zig zag stitched 1/2 inch from the bottom.

You are finished!! Yay!!

June 16, 2019August 18, 2022 by Phee Fabrics Categories: SupplexTags: #pheejedsal, elastic waist hack, jedidiah, jedidiah shorts, Men, mens shorts, sewing for men, Supplex, supplex shorts, Techniques, thread theory, thread theory jedidiah, welt pocket, zipper fly 1 Comment

Strathcona Henley SAL Day 3

Today we’re finally sewing! We’re going to be doing the shoulder seams, sleeves, and side seams!

First we’re going to sew the shoulder seams. Align the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice with right sides together and then sew. Here I’m using the olive rayon spandex.

DON’T FORGET THERE’S A 5/8 INCH SEAM ALLOWANCE. Ask me how I know haha.

Now that the shoulder seams are done we’re going to sew the sleeves. There are five notches on the sleeve pattern piece one in the center, two for the front bodice, and two for the back. The notches for the FRONT have the one notch that is closer to the center notch.

I always forget to mark my notches so often I have to mark them with pins afterwards haha.

Here I lined up the sleeve notches with the pinned notches on the bodice pieces. It’s really important to make sure that the front of your sleeve is with the front bodice otherwise the shoulder seam will pucker this sleeve cap ISN’T symmetrical.

Alright once the sleeves are both attached we’re going to be doing the side seams!

All of these photos are of the olive but most of them we’re taken with a flash that’s why they look so different.

First I like to line up the seams on the bottom of the armscye and then pin down the side and then down the sleeve. You shouldn’t need to stretch the fabric at all, they should be the same size 🙂

Tomorrow we’ll be doing the cuffs, hem, and neckband! I hope you’re loving your shirt so far.

-Whitney

November 29, 2018October 14, 2019 by Phee Fabrics Categories: UncategorizedTags: henley, Men, pheestrathsal, Rayon Spandex, sew along, sewing for men, strathcona, thread theory Leave a comment

Strathcona Henley Day 2

Today we are going to be working on the placket! This is the hardest part of the whole thing but after you figure it out the first time it’s smooth sailing. I made a video on the method and then here are some close up shots.

For some reason I always choose dark fabric when making videos why why why haha.

The most confusing part for me was the actual folding of the placket so I put the pictures of that below. At the point of folding the placket you should have the right front of the placket stitched to the garment from the neckline down to 1-1/2 inches from the bottom of the placket piece. On that right side the placket piece is essentially sandwiching the cut raw edge of the bodice. Don’t forget to tuck your seam allowance in there before you stitch.

Moving on to the left side you’ll do the same thing sandwiching the raw cut edge but then at the bottom of the placket piece that extra 1-1/2 inches of the left side will sandwich that same piece on the right side.

Notice how the left placket in the picture is completely wrapped around the right.

Once you have that completed (it’s a little finicky) you need to trim the layers so it’s not so thick. I trimmed everything on the inside of the placket so that when you fold it up it lays flatter.

Notice how the bottom layer of the placket is really thin because I trimmed all of the underlayers. I also like to have my placket completely stitched on before I add the buttons and buttholes so after stitching the placket is when I would ideally add those. I get worried about too much shifting if I try to do it before stitching the placket.

I didn’t realize until it was too late that my main bodice was wrong side out but luckily Travis really doesn’t care! haha. So I just stitched in a square but you can also do the X as suggested if you prefer that look.

November 28, 2018October 14, 2019 by Phee Fabrics Categories: UncategorizedTags: buttonholes, buttons, ew along, henley, Men, pheestrathsal, Placket, Rayon Spandex, sewing for men, strathcona, Techniques Leave a comment

SAXX Hack for the COMOX Trunks

I wanted to do a follow up photo blog describing how to achieve the SAXX ‘sack’ hack in the COMOX Trunks. There is the video on youtube but sometimes with using black fabric and the camera being a little bit too far away it might be hard to see.

Altering the pattern piece

First you’re going to want to download the FREE extra gusset pattern piece in the Stitch Upon a Time facebook group files. These pattern piece is drafted for the BOXERWEAR but also works well with the COMOX. The boxerwear have a higher rise than the comox so first we need to cut the pattern piece down. I aligned the outer curved edge of the SUAT pattern piece with the outside curve of the comox pouch pattern piece and cut down the height of the SUAT piece to match. For Travis’ size it was about 1/4 inch from both the top and the bottom.

Assembling the SAXX ‘sack’

sack with picot

There are two options for finishing the inside edge of the sack piece. You can either set your machine up to do a rolled hem using woolly nylon or you can us the picot plush elastic. I haaaaate taking needles out of my serger so I naturally went for the picot option.

With the plush side facing up align the straight edge of the elastic (not scalloped) with the straighter edge of your sack pattern piece on the RIGHT side and stitch together. Then you are going to flip the picot under so only the scalloped edge can be see from the right side. Then these sack pattern pieces are complete.

You’ll notice that the more narrow end of the sack piece is the top and the wider end of the sack piece will go on the bottom of the trunks.

Putting the pouch together

pouch final

Travis’ prefers to have the pouch without the accessibility option. To achieve this I cut four of the whole pouch piece without the cutout (where you would add the binding). Then with right sides together I stitch them together along the curve and repeated for the other set.

Now the pouch pieces are complete. To enclose the center seam this way I just put them wrong sides together, baste around the outside, and treat as one.

The longer straight edge of the pouch pieces are the top with the more narrow end being the bottom.

Enclosing seams using the accessibility pouch

If you’re using the accessibility option (how the pattern is drafted) and you want to have the center pouch seams enclosed you’re going to need to cut two of the same pattern piece for the cut out piece and the other full pouch piece. As drafted it says to cut two mirrored pieces of each one but this doesn’t allow for the center seam to be enclosed. If you cut two the same way when you face wrong sides together to complete the pouch, enclosing the seams, the access points will be on opposite sides.

Attaching the sack to the pouch

The curved edge of your sack pieces can now be attached (basted or clipped) to the outside curve of the basted pouch pieces. Remember that the smaller end of the sack piece is the top and the exposed side of the plush elastic should be facing the pouch. The pouch piece is now attached to the sack piece and you’ll assemble the rest of the pattern as the directions say.

TIP

dont let the sack catch

When you’re attaching the gusset to the front of the comox trunks make sure to double check that your sack pieces are laying in the right direction. It’s really easy for them to get folded under and sewn on the wrong way.

Attaching the leg binding

For the legs I did a single fold bias. I cut the piece at 80% of the leg opening by 1.25 inches and it seemed to work perfectly for the rayon spandex. First I quartered each of the legs as well as the bands. Then matching up the quarter points with right sides together I serged around with a 3/8 inch seam allowance. After doing that I took the raw edge of the bias and folded it up and over the serged seam. From there I just topstitched using a zig zag stitch from the right side. You could also use a double needle or a coverstitch machine for this and it’d work even better!