Regaining My Sewing Power

Why does 2020 seem so long ago? Two years ago I was busy sanitizing groceries, making sourdough, homeschooling my child, etc. I always told myself that it was temporary, a couple weeks. I would get to sew “tomorrow” and tomorrow never came. The hobby that I enjoyed so much started to feel like another chore. It didn’t matter if I sewed something for myself, I was living in sweatpants. My sewing was consumed with masks, repairing masks, and the occasional make for my growing child. I was mentally exhausted. I didn’t realize that I was in ‘Groundhog Day’. Fast forward almost two years to the day and I decided that I was sick of feeling this way, I needed to think of something that would make me feel like myself, not something that I was sewing for someone else, just something for myself, that was NOT a mask.

I started with the Rain City Pattern Company Tight Tank with Heavy Rayon Spandex.

From there I moved on to a few new sports bras. I like the FREE Hyacinth Pattern from OhhhLulu. I used Tricot and Powernet and I added a band. Do you know what started to happen? Putting on something that was new, basic but new, gave me that quick boost of confidence that I forgot that I missed. It felt sooo good to wear something that wasn’t just that same pair of sweatpants. To be fair, I was alternating between two pairs of sweats.

Alas, the joyous spark was ignited. Then I started to think about what I could make that wasn’t so “casual”. At the same time Chalk & Notch released the Wren. I like that it is drafted for different cup sizes and has a shirt and dress within the same pattern. I used Rayon. One technique that I always use is French Seams . I love the finish of them. Yes, it takes longer but I do sew for longevity and it is worth it.

Next on my list is:

  • This gorgeous top from True Bias. It’s called the Roscoe Blouse and includes a dress in the pattern also made by Jasmine Macias, made in Rayon

I hope this blog inspires some of you to also reignite the creativity. I didn’t realize how much was missing til I started it again. What is something on your list to make?

Melissa

My official mom uniform

When Melissa said that August was all about capsules, I was a bit overwhelmed. To be fair, I get overwhelmed easily. Here’s a little secret…..I’ve never sewn a capsule! I know, I know. How crazy is that?! However, what the heck do I make?! I’m a stay at home mom and don’t really dress nice very often. Then I realized that all moms need good basics that they can wear ALL. THE. TIME! Clothes don’t fit the same after having kids, so why not make our own? I live in leggings and tanks. And I always need something to keep me warm. So here’s the rundown.

Before I get into the patterns, here’s a little info on fabric. One thing I learned in my sewing journey, is to use quality fabric. Having good quality stuff, makes my work look better, last longer, and easier to make. Phee Fabrics has never let me down. The quality is always amazing! I love that the descriptions are accurate and the fabrics are sourced in the USA.

I bought the Clara pattern from Jalie months ago and finally made them. I have to say, I’m super happy with the fit. The only adjustments I had to make were height adjustments. I will take an extra inch next pair. I wore them to the gym the other day and they didn’t budge. I used black supplex and they feel like I spent a lot of money!!! Not to mention that I can dress them up or down. They can be worn with anything. Also this supplex is so lush, not to mention, durable. I live in leggings made with Phee’s supplex and this stuff lasts! Not to mention, it’s squatproof!

The staple tank from Greenstyle Creations is a pattern thats gotten lots of use. When I got this ribbing material, I knew I had to make one with it. This stuff is so soft, has amazing drape, and great recovery. I’m totally digging it!

The Harper cardigan from Sinclair Patterns Is a free pattern with a few options for length. I did the cropped length with black supplex. I can wear this with just about anything. I can honestly tell say that I will wear the hell out of this

Last but not least..:.The Jalie Julia has become a new favorite pattern of mine also. I love combining the top and the bra into one. I used Rayon Spandex, powernet, 3/8” picot elastic, bra strap elastic, rings and sliders. Oh and I used supplex for the band. I used picot instead of FOE and bra strap elastic instead of FOE for the straps. I cropped the length on this one.

First you’re going to go ahead and put your bra front and back together. I did French seams on this one. I omitted the darts so that I didn’t have to worry about that seam. It’s not that big of a difference. I wouldn’t omit it on the sports bra though. Attach the bottom band. Then we can put it together with the top.

Put the bra into the top so the wrong sides are together. You’ll notice the bra portion is a little smaller. I stretch it to fit, clip and baste. The other thing that needs to be changed is, that back point, where the two pieces of elastic meet….cut off about an inch so it’s a straight line and fold it over. That way you’ll have a clean edge and enough fabric for the picot to be attached and folded over.

Attach the picot like usual. Start with the front, chest edge. Flat side of the picot in line with the edge of the fabric. Attach with a zig zag. Then turn under and zig zag again. The elastic will be the same length in the front. When you get to the sides, you’ll want to add about an inch to the front, so that you can attach the rings. So attach the elastic to the one side, leaving an inch on the front and on the back. Then do the other side.

After than you’ll attach rings to each piece of elastic sticking up. Make your straps with the sliders. And then attach. Hem last and you’re good to go.

So there you have my idea of the perfect mom uniform. Let’s be honest, it’s the perfect capsule for anyone!! All 4 of these pieces will get lots of wear and they have me looking forward to cooler weather. Thanks for reading!

*Note: affiliate links may be used. By using these links, I gain a small portion at no added cost for you. I promise, it all goes to keeping my sewing habit going😊

Summer Skirts

In the summer I live in running skirts, I run in them, but I also just wear them because they are so comfortable. I have so many, but I always want more choices, probably so I don’t have to do laundry more often. When I ran across this skirt on Pinterest, I knew the exact pattern I could use to get the same look.

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I began with Jalie’s Loulouxe Skort pattern, and went to my fabric stash. I’ve actually been sewing a lot from my stash lately, and it’s felt amazing to use some of my Phee stash that I’ve staring at not knowing what to do with. I pulled out navy nylon/spandex tricot and coral powernet (this stuff is in the last chance section of the site, so grab it now if you’re at all interested in it).

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I love the way that it turned out, it even goes perfectly with my newest tank, a GreenStyle Solo Tank in white circular knit. I love how the coral part is slightly translucent, but yet you can’t really see much. Oh, and I haven’t told you the best part yet, the shorts have pockets! I did make my pockets about 1/2″ wider than the pattern piece to account for my phone and any other things that I needed to put in my pockets.

There are a few changes I need to make next time for a better fit, so that I can actually run in this. The shorts are a loose, so I’ll go with a smaller size through the hips and thighs next time. I also love the bands instead of hemming, it made finishing a breeze.

One thing to note is that I trimmed 3/8″ off the bottom of the coral powernet piece, as I planned on hemming the navy tricot front of the skirt. I really like how the powernet just flows as I move.

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I must also add, that this running skirt is mother and chicken approved. 🙂

Note: This post may contain affiliate links to products. All opinions and thoughts are my own. I may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.

Swimwear Shenanigans And Escapades

Since I’ve decided that this is going to be the summer for swimwear sewing, I’m having fun combining and hacking my patterns to make some fun suits!  I like using all the fun colors of Tricot from Phee Fabrics, and always used their Powernet in my swimwear, bras and workout wear for extra support.  Phee fan pro tip: If you haven’t joined the Phee Fabrics Facebook Group yet, now is the perfect time to do so.  They are almost at 10,000 members, and are kicking off a celebration on June 26, 2019!

The 5 Out Of 4 Shenanigans Skort seemed like the perfect basis for a swim skirt.  Since the Escapade Top and Dress pattern has a drawstring front, I thought it would be fun to add drawstrings on the sides of the Shenanigans.  That way my booty could be covered while walking out to the beach, then I can shorten the skirt as much as I want while playing on the beach.

You can use the shorts included with the pattern, or your favorite briefs pattern for underneath.  If you use a different pattern for the briefs, make them first, without sewing the waistband.  Since my brief pattern has a lower rise, I traced the Sporty Spice length in my measured size for the skirt, and cut on the low rise line.  I didn’t want the sides to flare out too much, so I curved the side seam of the bottom of the skirt front in to the next smaller size.  When I lay the skirt front pattern on top of the brief pattern, you can see that the front waistline curve is the same, and that it’s a couple of inches wider than the brief.

Shen pattern FYou need that extra width to make your drawstring casing, and for your skirt to have a little bit of ease.  The skirt back should also match the curve of your briefs and have the same extra width.  Because I’m tall and have a booty, I added a little extra length to the center back of my skirt, tapering up to the side length.  It’s just enough to cover my bum when the skirt isn’t gathered up on the sides.  Sew the skirt front and back right sides together with a 1″ seam.  Make drawstrings by cutting four 1-1/2″ wide strips of  Phee Fabrics Tricot twice as long as the side seam of your skirt.  Fold each strip right sides together and using a stretch stitch sew with a 3/8″ seam allowance.  Use a safety pin or bodkin to turn the strips right side out.

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Fold the skirt side seam allowances under 3/8″ and pin in place.  Stitch in place using a 1/2″ seam allowance to form the casings for your drawstrings.

Shen casingFold the bottom hem under 1/2″ and use a zig zig or other stretch stitch to hem.  On the right side of your skirt, make a small horizontal slit in each casing, about 3/8″ above the hem.  Thread a drawstring in each casing and tack the drawstring in place at the top.

Shen insert tiesAlign the center front, center back, and side seams of your brief and skirt and pin or clip in place.   Try it on to ensure everything feels comfortable and lines up nicely.  This is your opportunity to trim the rise a little bit if needed for better alignment.   Easing the skirt to fit the brief, baste them together.  Then sew on your waistband and elastic and you’ve got a new swim skirt!

I’ve hacked the 5oo4 Escapade into a workout top before, so I knew it would make a great bikini top.  I thought it would be cute to have a little cut-out in the back, although due to changes I made after basting the side seams and trying it on, the cut-out is smaller than I’d originally planned.  I used Tricot as the main and lining fabric, with a layer of powernet basted to my main tricot fabric so that it will end up sandwiched between the layers.  (Following the pattern tutorial and basting it to the lining fabric will save you from having to snip through two layers when making your opening for the drawstring!)

Because adding an underbust band to accomplish the cut-out added length to the top, I ended up shortening and altering my front and back pattern pieces to show a little more skin.  I wanted the back bodice to end up 3″ high, so my pattern piece ended up 3-3/4″ high, with a 3/8″ seam allowance at the top and bottom.  (I did not have my strap drawstring go through the bodice back.  If you want yours to go all the way through, add 3/8″ to the height, since the top will be folded under 3/4″ to form the casing per the pattern tutorial.)  Simply fold up the bottom corner of your pattern piece along the center back fold line to get the triangular cut-out.

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I cut the front bodice on the C/D cutline, because according to the measurement chart, that’s where I should cut.  I definitely need the extra length in the center front, but not so much at the sides.  So I ended up tapering my bodice height starting 3-1/2″ away from the center front angling up to the necessary side height of 4-1/8″ to match up to my bodice back.

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To make the straps, you basically you cut your fabric four times the width of your elastic, (in this case 1-1/2″ wide).  Fold the straps in half right sides together.  Place the 3/8″ elastic flush with the cut edges, then zig-zag the elastic, right at the inner edge of the elastic.  Then turn your straps right side out.  Take your time when stitching on the elastic, and the straps will end up nice and flat.

Esc strap elasticSew the bodice front per the pattern tutorial until you reach the point where you are supposed to sew the front to the back at the side seams.  This is when I tacked my straps at the side seams, rather than having one long strap run through the entire top of the bodice.  Note: in the photo below, I had not yet made the tapered cut at the bottom sides of my top.

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Lay the bodice backs right sides together, and stitch along the top using a 3/8″ seam allowance.  Stitch along the triangle cut-out.  Sew elastic to these seam allowances, keeping the elastic taut, but not pulling on it.  This will give these seams stability, and help keep the top of your suit in place.  It might seem intimidating to sew elastic, but it’s not as scary as you may think.  In fact, 5 Out Of 4 Patterns has several blog post videos showing how to add elastic in their Sewing School series.  In the photo below, you can see where I added the elastic.  Note: The bottom of the back hadn’t been trimmed to it’s shorter height yet.

Esc back elasticYou’ll need to poke one side of the back through the narrow space at center back to turn the back right sides out.  Then it’s time to sew your side seams.  I hate bulky side seams, and with the straps, and elastic, and layers of tricot and powernet the seam could get bulky!  So I do it a little differently than you may have seen.  Since the front strap casing is folded down at the top front, my normal method of sewing the main front to main back, and lining front to lining back, lining up the top seam isn’t going to work.

So I folded the back bodice over the front bodice, aligning the seam with the top edge of the front bodice, making sure that the main fabric (tricot) front matched up with the main fabric back, and the two lining fabrics were together.  Stitch down 3/4″ until reaching the casing stitch line.  Then pin the main fabric (tricot) front to the main fabric back and the lining front to the lining back and stitch each of the pinned seams together.

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Then clip the seam allowances so that you can press them open.  I also clip the top corner at an angle to help reduce the bulk.  Repeat these steps on the other side seam.

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Cut a band the same width as your bikini top, adding in a seam allowance.  If you use 3/4″ elastic, the band should be 2-1/4″ high (twice the width of the elastic plus the seam allowance).  Sew the short ends of your band together, and aligning the seam with one of the side seams, place the band over the bodice right sides together.  Pin the band to the bodice bottom, then stitch.

Use pins to mark the center front and back, along with the quarter points.  Overlapping the ends of your elastic 1″, zig zag  together, then mark the quarter points with pins.  With the band still folded up on the bodice, pin the elastic to the seam allowance, aligning the quarter point pins.  The edge of the elastic should line up with the seamline, and hang down below the bikini top.  Then wrap the band down around the elastic and overlapping up to the inside and pin in place.  Stitch around the bodice bottom using a zig zag set at 2.5 stitch length and 3.0 stitch width.  At the triangle cut-out opening, stitch across the band at the top and trim away the excess fabric.

You can either tie the straps at the neck halter style, or have someone help you pin them in a comfortable spot and tack the straps in place, cutting off the excess strap length.  Now you have a cute new swimsuit!  I love being able to adjust the drawstrings to make the skirt as short or long, and the top as high or low as I want.

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Because it’s boring and awkward to try and look sexy, I decided to have fun doing cartwheels instead.  🙂

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Being able to laugh at yourself and act silly keeps you young, right? 😉  There is no need to be afraid of sewing swimwear.  Have fun with it and mash and hack away!  It’s just another pattern and some colorful fabric, customized to fit YOU!  Does sewing your own swimwear give you super powers?  Maybe not.  But it does give you the confidence to see if you can still do cartwheels!  So sew away and then hit the pool, lake, or beach.

5oo4 Escapade Experiment

I literally cannot seem to stop myself when it comes to hacking patterns.  I’ll buy a pattern because it’s a cute design, or has lots of options, and I may or may not make it as written.  Then I’ll start thinking, “Maybe it would be fun to add…” or, “What if I changed that into…”  There are some really talented .pdf pattern designers out there, and I am so impressed by them, because I don’t have the talent to design a pattern.  They’ve done the hard work of figuring out fit and design.  And I get to do the fun part of personalizing patterns to suit me, or fill a need in my wardrobe.

I bought the 5 Out Of 4 Patterns Escapade Top and Dress pattern months ago, and hadn’t gotten around to making it yet.  I love all the options: bikini top; tankini style top, and dress.  When I first bought the pattern, I think I planned to make the dress first.  I love dresses.  And since the Escapade has a built in bra, it’s an easy way to get dressed in the morning!  But I usually go to yoga class 4 days a week, so a workout top was a bigger need than a dress.  Which is what led to my experiment.

The Escapade is designed to have a drawstring style strap that can be tied halter style (handy if you are nursing or want to easily adjust the strap length), or tacked in place as straight or criss-crossed straps.  Since I enjoy Ashtanga and Power Flow yoga classes, there is a lot of movement involved, and I do NOT want any movement or shifting of my straps!  There is also a center front tie that gives separation, shaping, and lift to the bra front, but I didn’t want to feel the tie when we do upward bow or other floor work.  So that’s what led me to my hacks.

I made my Escapade using Supplex and Powernet from Phee Fabrics.   Phee Fabrics Supplex is hands down my favorite fabric for workout wear.  It’s moisture wicking and antimicrobial, so you don’t feel all sweaty or get stinky clothes from your workout.  High quality powernet, which Phee stocks, is essential for good support when you’re making bras, so I always use it in the front and back of my workout bras.

I cut out all my pattern pieces except for the drawstring strap, since I made that by cutting two 1.5″ x 30″ strips of Supplex and one strip out of powernet.  I sewed them with the Supplex right sides together and the powernet on top along the two long sides.  I used a safety pin to turn the strap right side out, then pressed it flat.

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I basted the powernet to the wrong side of the bra front and back lining pieces, then sewed the lining together at the side seams.  I also sewed the bra front and back together at the side seams.  I turned the bra right sides out, and slid the bra lining, also stocked at Phee Fabrics over it, right sides together.  I pinned them together along the top edge, then sewed along the top edge leaving an inch in the center back, and an inch at the bra front top points open.

Esc pinnedI used a strip of powernet 1.5″ x 4″ to make my center back strap loop.  I folded it in half lengthwise, and sewed it with a 3/8″ seam allowance.  I turned it right side out, made a loop, slid it inside the center back opening I had left in the bra, and stitched it in place.  Then I sewed 1/4″ clear elastic from Phee Fabrics in the seam allowance along the top of the bra using a zig zag stitch.  I stretched it slightly from the side seam up to the bra front points.  I also stretched it slightly along the center front from point to point.

Esc elasticStitch one end of your strap in place at one of the bra front points, turn the bra right sides out, string the strap through the loop and try it on.  Adjust the strap length to fit you comfortably, while still feeling supportive.  Then turn it inside out again to stitch the strap at the appropriate length, and trim off the excess.  I think I ended up cutting a couple of inches off of mine.

Esc strapsBecause I didn’t want the center front tie, I just made a gathering stitch down the center front of the bra top, and stitched my gathers in place with a zig zag, followed by a stretch stitch to ensure that my gathers stayed in place even with the frequent wearing and washing my workout tops get.

To add interest and a little ventilation to the back of my top,  I marked a spot 5.25″ down from the top of the center back bodice, and 2.5″ from the center back fold and cut this triangle off with my rotary cutter.

Esc cut triThen I cut a 6″ triangle out of my powernet.  You can use the triangle you cut out of the bodice, (adding 3/4″ on the two sides to give yourself a seam allowance) as a pattern.

Esc triangles

Stitch the powernet insert in place on the center back, taking your time when you get to the point, lifting your presser foot, and swiveling to continue the seam up the other side of the triangle.  I’m not going to lie, my triangle shifted a bit while sewing, and I seam ripped and resewed the point more than once.  Oh, the joys of perfectionism while sewing!  Use lots of pins to hold things in place, take your time, and hopefully you won’t have to seam rip and resew like me.  Press the seam allowance toward the Supplex so that it won’t show through the powernet, and topstitch in place.

You can follow the pattern tutorial at this point to finish up your top.  I wore my top to Ashtanga yoga class yesterday, and appreciated the ventilated triangle in the middle of my back.  It was a great, rather sweaty workout and I felt cute and comfortable.

I paired the top with my GreenStyle Super G’s, which have powernet side pocket panels, so my new 5 out of 4 Escapade top gave me a cute matching workout outfit.

Esc frontEsc back full

Don’t be afraid to try a hack to make a great pattern suit your needs.  I will definitely use this pattern again.  I think I will try the dress version next.  Maybe in circular knit, or tricot… Which do you think?

Making the Orange Lingerie Boylston in a 36J

If you have seen any of my sewing posts or makes I am well known having large natural breasts and with a full bust of 44.5″ to 47″ (depending on the support of the bra I am wearing at the time) and an under bust of 34.5″ I find it extremely hard to go bra shopping and find something that fits “OK”. I usually find myself purchasing a 38H or a 40H in the Cacique line through Lane Bryant and I feel socially acceptable meaning I am supported enough to not feel like a broken-down milk cow. In reality, I pop out of the top of a 38H when I bend over and the 40H is too big in the band so it shifts up in the back as well as the underwires fall to the side/back of my rib cage leaving uncomfortable rub spots.

I have been stalking the bra making forums and bra making pattern designers for almost a year now but there is A LOT of information out there! I have read articles and excerpts on how to draft a bra pattern based on measurements but with two small children and running the family commercial print company there is not a lot of time to wrap my head around a project like that. Then Melissa of Phee Fabrics says, “Hey, I am stocking bra kits, foam and underwires!” My first thought was … Shiiit, I’m really going to have to do this …

After many people with larger cup sizes recommended a designer I went ahead and messaged Orange Lingerie on Facebook. She was extremely helpful in pointing me to the right direction based on my measurements and what I needed in a bra: support and variety. At this point in my life the last PRETTY bra I was able to own was when I could squeeze into a 36F from Frederick’s of Hollywood! So I purchased the Orange Lingerie Boylston with a recommended size of 36J.

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I was thinking I would just take you from pattern purchase to the grand finale but after having my hands on all of the different fabrics – some of which were entirely new to me in my over 25 years of sewing – I thought I would take you through this journey to perfecting MY bra in hopes you will join me!

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From the top, clockwise, we have the poly-laminate foam, white Techsheen and white 40 denier Tricot. I could go on and on about these but the Phee website has already listed all the important info on the website. I will, however, point out that the foam is chlorine-safe! Meaning if you need/want custom swim cups this is PERFECT. If you are overwhelmed with all the notions, Phee Fabrics also has bra kits.

Before you really dive in to sewing your bra I would recommend sewing some test scraps with these fabrics and make notes, especially if you are new to them. By writing the stitch lengths, widths and tensions on the scraps, I will be able to toss these into my sewing bag for future reference.

The Boylston is not originally written for foam but it was was easy to convert using Cloth Habit’s series to make a foam cup bra from an existing pattern.

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An extra item I used on this first round was double galloon lace as I followed the instructions from Orange Lingerie to make a lace upper cup based on an existing pattern. Something to remember that DOES NOT come in the bra kits are the underwires (refer to your pattern for the correct size and shape) and underwire casing – don’t ask me how I know *wink*. Another great thing is that you can return the underwires that don’t fit. If you forget these items, you will neeeed to place another Phee order – OH DARN! Here’s the inside view and as a first go-round with a real bra I am beyond pleased!

I have a few fit issues I need to work out. I feel the cup seams all meet at the right place over my nipples but once all of the breast tissue is in the cup I have a little extra over flow in the upper cup. I think I want to find a way to add more upper cup coverage and to see about what solutions there are to prevent slipping of the shoulder straps whether that is strap placement or addition of silicone. I know the slippage is due to having such developed neck/shoulder muscles from carrying so much breast weight over the years.

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I am ecstatic that after one trial run I have a wearable muslin and the enthusiasm to try again (and again) with some adjustments. I already have dreams of all the pretty, custom-fitting bras I will have in my rotation instead of literally only 2 real, poor-fitting bras I wash repetitively. Here are my plans for a glorious pairing of Phee gorgeousness … the amethyst bra findings kit (don’t forget to add the amethyst underwire casing).

I hope you will join me as I continue on this crazy, scary, exciting bra making journey!!!