A Cozy Pinspiration Hack

For the last year I’ve been wanting to create this pinspiration and I just never got around to it. I’m a big pullover/jacket fan. I wear them most of the year. Something that I can wear over a tank or throw a jacket on over top, on those super cold mornings.

Back when I was testing the Nova Raglan by Sinclair Patterns) all I could think about was that pinspiration pic from last year. The Nova comes with a bunch of options. Cowl, hood, kangaroo Pocket, etc. Definitely check it out.

That was also my first time using the cozy French terry from Phee Fabrics and it was love! This stuff isn’t super thin and flimsy like some I’ve tried. The word “cozy” describes it perfectly. The fleece backing is so soft and lush. It’s warm but not too hot, and it’s so easy to work with. Everytime I wear anything I’ve made with it, people are always shocked I made it. Then they have to touch it. I’ve been really happy with how it holds up too. For this one, I used the Light Heathered Gray and Dusty Denim. So if you’re looking for great french terry, check this stuff out.

Here’s my disclaimer! There are tons of mistakes. Things I didn’t think through fully and things I need to think about a little more. Lots of seam tipping was done. However I do still love it!!! You can also probably tell when I had to tell my kid to stop screwing with it as I was sewing.

I used a 7” zipper, which I think is fine for me but you could use a 9” if you wanted. You’ll need the front, back, sleeves, cuffs, and a waistband if you choose. The cowl neck, I winged my own. I wanted it similar to my Patagonia so I measured the the height on that and the width across on the cowl pattern piece. I came up with a width of 19” and 4.25” high. I cut one in gray and one in blue but you could easily double that height and cut just one color.

I assembled the shirt except for the seam where that zipper will go and that sleeve/side sleeve. You’re going to attach the cowl to it. I left it all open and just tried to quarter the cowl and the neck of the shirt. For my cowl, I did 2 colors so I had a different color on the inside. So I serged those together first.

You’ll place the cowl right sides together, with it evenly stretched and serge.

I would highly suggest adding some interfacing. Which I intended to do, like I always do when I put a zipper in a knit project. But I couldn’t find mine. I just bought it and I can’t figure out where my husband put it. I would’ve just done some strips on either side of where the zipper was going. Now that I’m done, it will show up. Every.freaking.time!

I’m not going to go into the do’s and don’ts of adding a zipper to a knit fabric because there’s already a phenomenal blog on the Phee Blog about it. It’s a great read!

The top edge of the cowl that’s going to fold over, you can fold 1/4” and press. You’ll need to go back and sew that edge at the seam where you attached the cowl later.

This is where we add the zipper. As far as placement, I started my zipper right around what would be the middle of my cowl.

Make sure everything lines up after you baste that zipper in place.

Then we are going to finish that seam and the side seam. You could also baste that in place before hand. I did it both different ways since I seam ripped a few times.

Once your zipper is in, you’re going to fold your cowl down and top stitch the zipper and then the edge where the cowl and the shirt meet. Remember, we are tacking the inside of the cowl down.

I top stitched my cowl and I like how it turned out. For the cuffs, I did the same as the cowl, with both colors. I chose to hem the bottom rather than add a waistband.

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That’s it! Super easy! Just required a little more focus from me. My next one will be much smoother and much better. I can’t wait to wear this one tomorrow morning! Thanks for reading!

Jessica

Summer is for Fun!

Summer is in full swing here in Far Northern California with all sorts of craziness between hail storms, mountain snow, earthquakes and sizzling temps of over 100 degrees! Add to the daily fun of school being out – what working parent doesn’t love trying to figure out ways to keep the monsters occupied and active when it’s hotter than the surface of the sun?

My original plan was to get pictures of this Mairin from Sew a Little Seam while out on the boat this past weekend but with so much snow runoff from the late, heavy Spring snowfalls that water was COLD!!! No one was going in and I know better than to bring out the suits and expect the kids to stay out of the water.

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I made sure to grab this inflatable pool from Costco while they had them in stock because around here, once the pools are gone, they aren’t restocked so if you miss out, you are S.O.L. and in for a long, hot season. It made for a great time in the backyard while the husband cooked a tri-tip and I snapped some pictures to show off the solid tricot and Insane in the Membrane Nylon spandex from Phee Fabrics.

It took me a bit to decide which colors to use. The Tricot, which is perfect for swimwear and so amazing to work with, comes in a bunch of awesome colors and with half-yard cut options available it is easy to have a nice on-hand selection of beautiful coordinates for whatever may come up! The Nylon-Spandex “Insane in the Membrane” is a fun, wild, black-and-white print that can really be paired with anything but for this suit, I chose the Cerise and Neon Coral to add lots of brightness to match my little’s ones sparkling personality.

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This is the second Mairin I’ve made for little missy and I had forgotten how “fun” the teeny, tiny pieces of elastic were to sew in for the arm and leg openings. It did require a few deep breaths and taking a break from my machines but those are really the only parts I found of the suit that was a touch stressful for me. Even the gathered ruffles are easy with the Tricot.

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Despite the elastic giving me a hard time, I feel fortunate to be able to provide my daughter with a perfectly fitting suit as I find that RTW suits have a tendency to sag in the booty/crotch area and are not comfortable for her to be able to play like she wants! The quality of the fabric really compliments its beauty with the way it holds up to abrasion and chlorine making the time and effort invested into a hand-crafted suit worthwhile.

I hope you have a wonderful Summer filled with lots of laughs and memories made. Kiddos just grow way too fast! Thank you for reading! ❤

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Pattern: Sew a Little Seam – Children’s Mairin Swimsuit PDF Pattern

Fabrics: Tricot in Cerise from Phee Fabrics, Tricot in Neon Coral from Phee Fabrics, Nylon Spandex in “Insane in the Membrane”Swim Lining in Bisque

This post includes affiliate links that might generate some income that would be wisely spent on … more fabric.

Feeling Sassy? How to Modify a Jalie Rash Guard for Some Spunk

Hey there! Support Phee Fabrics and its amazing contributors by using the affiliate links in our articles to shop. We receive a small commission (at zero extra cost to you!) so we can continue to create helpful and free tutorials.

What do you do when you can’t decide on a color to use?

USE THEM ALL!

That’s the only correct answer in this scenario, especially in regards to Phee’s new bouquet of nylon/spandex tricot.

From left to right, I have neon coral, cerise, and light pink. Phee’s nylon/spandex tricot collection is the perfect choice for your summer workout and swim attire. These fabrics are moisture wicking, lightweight and breathable.

I was able to play a lot of beach volleyball last year and my Phee-kinis were my go-to for such a rigorous sport. Y’all…I produce an embarrassing amount of sweat by just looking at the sun on a 50 degree day. Moisture wicking and quick drying are a must!

So that’s why I felt confident in making a raglan rash guard using my tricot trio. Usually, I wouldn’t even consider going out in the sun wearing sleeves and a high neckline. But, the fabric provides the functionality that I need. And rash guards are cute, so I couldn’t resist.

Since summer time is fast approaching, I decided to sass up my Jalie Valerie rash guard by opening up the back and capping the sleeves. If this is something you’d like to try out (especially since I’m sure you have bought all of the tricot by now), keep reading to see how I did it!

This is an alteration to Jalie’s Valerie rash guard pattern. I started with a size P.

Altering the Sleeves

Step 1 identify the shoulder line on the pattern. It’s a little off-center toward the garment’s front.

Step 2 connect your front and back notches with a straight line. Measure down 1″ from your notch line and draw a second line.

Step 3 draw a curved line starting at the lower line below the front notch. The curve should peak at the intersection between your vertical shoulder line and the horizontal notch line. It will end on the lower line below the back notch.

Step 4 draw in your seam or elastic allowance. I used a 3/8″ elastic allowance just in case I decided to insert elastic around the arm hole. But, I ended up simply applying an elasticized binding.

Altering the Back

Step 1 determine how short you want your crop to be. I decided to go even shorter than Jalie’s cropped version. Draw in your new crop line.

Step 2 Draw a line from the center back seam to the back sleeve notch. This line should be perpendicular to the center back seam. Then, mark a spot along the center back seam 1 3/4″ above that line.

Step 3 identify the midpoint along the side seam between the arm opening and the crop line. From that midpoint, use a French curve or hip curve to draw the open back line. Then, from that side seam midpoint, draw in your tie back tapering to 2″ on the center back seam.

Step 4 disregard the tie back pattern piece for a moment. Draw in the seam or elastic allowance on the new curve of your upper back piece.

Steps 5 and 6 extend the tie back pattern piece by at least 10″. Then, draw in your seam or elastic allowances along the upper and lower edges of the piece.

Put it all together and what do you get?

I used 3/8″ rubber elastic for the neon coral binding. I also bagged out the upper back piece and the tie piece, using 3/8″ rubber elastic along the seams. As with most of my swim and beach apparel, I created a built in shelf bra since I’m not too fond of inserts floating around.

Finale

I still struggle with making clean neckbands, but I guess that just means I need to make more Phee rash guards. I can’t wait to make matching swim bottoms and take this baby to the beach!

List of Materials

Let me know if this is an alteration that you’ll try out! At the very least, get the fabric because just staring at it arranged together will make you happy. Talk to you soon!

xo

Monica

​Not just anyone’s rayon spandex!

Posted by Whitney “TEAMMASH” Decker

Not just anyone’s rayon spandex!

I have A LOT of fabric, more than any person who has only been sewing for a year and a half ever should. I decided that just ordering a little bit of everything was the best way to learn about different fabrics. I had tried rayon spandex before from other distributors and it just didn’t do anything for me, it was thin, got sucked into my sewing machine, I couldn’t start sewing on the end, it showed all the lumps and it was sheer.

I decided when Melissa stocked rayon spandex that I should just try it. I mean everything else she stocks is a step above so I hoped I would like this rayon spandex more than any other I had tried. Well…. It came in the mail and I didn’t believe it. It is so much heavier than any other I had ever tried, the perfect weight for dresses, tops, or rompers. It has amazing drape, covers my flaws and I don’t have to worry about seeing my underwear through it! Amazing! A lot of other rayon spandex is about 6 oz and the Phee rayon spandex is 13oz just to give you a comparison.

So many of the lighter weight fabrics I have a heck of a time sewing on my sewing machine and with my serger out of commission options are limited. I was so happy that I could just sew this rayon spandex like any thicker fabric and I wasn’t constantly fishing it out from the bobbin.

My rayon spandex Jessie dresses (5oo4) are probably my most worn me made items and I have a romper and dresses in the works for my littles. The options really are endless. It’d be the perfect fabric for some staple v necks or camis too or even a swim coverup.

Here are some patterns that I think would be spectacular for the rayon spandex.

The Jessie from 5oo4. There are also SAL videos on the blog.

https://5outof4.com/product/jessie-top-tunic-and-dress/

The green tee from Greenstyle Creations which is FREE and happens to be my favorite basic tee.

https://greenstylecreations.com/collections/womens-patterns/products/green-tee-sizes-xs-3xl

The Isabel from m4m which is a wrap dress or there’s a hack to make it a duster too on their blog.

https://www.madeformermaids.com/product/mamaisabel/

This is a gathered maxi skirt that would be perfect in the rs for summer giving full coverage but also being breathable.

https://petitestitchery.com/shop/womens-maya-skirt/

This is a t shirt dress that I make often for my littles too that I actually have on my cutting table now to make out of the pink rayon spandex.

https://brindilletwig.com/collections/dresses-skirts/products/t-shirt-dress-058

Use discount code RSmay18 to get 10% off your rayon spandex orders (excludes bundle) from 5/2-5/7

-Whitney 🙂