During the month of September 2019 the team at Phee focused on free patterns. The only rules were that the pattern had to be free and utilize Phee Fabrics.
Here’s the thing, the team at Phee works extremely hard behind the scenes to bring everyone all the best of their work. Now, we know the quality at Phee is consistent, so you know what you’re going to get. Pattern designers work hard also and a lot of designers draft with their body shapes in mind and adjust the sizing based on their size block. There are very few designers that take multiple body shapes into account. One of the most challenging things for new and frustrating for experienced sewists is to adjust a pattern to their body. Dealing with an awkward fit and then comes in the concept of making a “muslin”. Typically muslin is a type of fabric but it can also be used to refer to the first one you make, a trial of sorts. Through multiple places I see people asking about using a different fabric as a “muslin”, a cheaper or different base. That will result in a different fit (be forewarned). Another thing that draws people in is FREE! The idea of getting something for free is appealing, it gives you a chance to try a pattern designer before purchasing other patterns from them. These are some of the free patterns our dedicated sewists have worked up for you.
The slouchy beanie was a free tutorial by Bernina Due to the ease of the pattern and not wanting the shoulders way too wide, she made a size 8, graded to 10 waist and 6 hips.
Removed an inch above bust and an inch above hem. Size 8 sleeve, removed .5” in the head and an inch at the short sleeve mark. Nicole is wearing the Agnes Dress by Halla using the navy rayon spandex
If you have any other free patterns that you have used with Phee please email us at customer.service@pheefabrics.com to be added to this blog
I’ve wanted to write a leggings comparison blog for FOREVER. I recently had my daughter and knew I wanted to wait until she was out of me to hopefully get the best fit for my post partum body. I used Phee supplex for all of them and 6 different leggings patterns.
I compiled some info to compare all of the patterns. The calf and thigh circumference are of the pattern pieces and the thigh measurement is taken from 6 inches down the inseam. The waistband height is of the pattern piece minus seam allowances and the width is taken from the center of the pattern pieces.
DIBY Anything But Basic Leggings
Stretch Required: 50%
Size made: 12 + 2.5 inches based on thigh placement
Drafted Height: 5’5
Calf Circumference: 11-3/4
Thigh Circumference: 16-1/4
Waistband Height: Tall: 3-1/8 Short: 2-1/8
Waistband Width: 27-1/4
Pocket Size: No pocket
Extra Options: None
Types of Waistbands: Short/Tall
Dislikes: Crotch and butt curve really flat/wide hip/minimal options
Size Range: 34-67 inch hip
Gusset: None
Comments: There is a very pronounced hip curve that after wearing caused some rippling the waistband also constantly rolled down. If someone had more around their hips I would recommend using this pattern and then using a waistband from another pattern. The ease throughout the legs is really comfortable and DIBY does have the most expansive size range.
Apostrophe My Fit Leggings
Stretch Required: You pick
Size made: Side pocket panel, 24 inch inseam, contour waistband, snug fit
Drafted Height: Custom
Calf Circumference: 14-3/8
Thigh Circumference: 21-1/8
Waistband Height: Contour: 3-1/2
Waistband Width: 25
Pocket Size: 6-1/4×3-1/2
Extra Options: Ruched side/Side panels/pocket/waistband pocket/different waistbands/completely customizable
Types of Waistbands: Elastic/Yoga/Contour/Back pocket
Dislikes: There isn’t a % of ease given for your measurements so mine didn’t turn out how I like
Size Range: All
Gusset: None
Comments: The directions for how to find your measurements are great and I really appreciated that but I was initially frustrated that the ease isn’t given for the different fits. I chose the snug fit and they are very large around my knees and calves with about a 1:1 ratio. They have a lot of potential and are completely customizable but I don’t know if I have the patience to work them out.
Greenstyle Strides Updated
Stretch Required: 50%
Size made: L cropped length, high rise
Drafted Height: 5’8
Calf Circumference: 9-3/4 in (capri line)
Thigh Circumference: 15-5/8
Waistband Height: High: 5 in Mid: 3-3/4
Waistband Width: 28-1/4
Pocket Size: 7-1/2×4
Extra Options: Cross Cuff/Waistband pocket/5 lengths
Types of Waistbands: Mid/High
Dislikes: No thigh/calf measurements. I would add a little calf ease next time.
Size Range: Hip 32-50 sizes are being expanded
Gusset: Oval
Comments: Strides have always been my go to I love the accent piece on the back. Through trying all the different patterns and seeing the different amounts of ease throughout the strides are a pair that I would wear for working out but would pick something a little more relaxed for everyday wear. I do think the back on these is the most flattering especially for those with long butt problems like me LOL.
P4P Peg Legs
Stretch Required: 50%
Size made: XL waist L hip low rise, 1″ longer than capri length, contour waistband
Drafted Height: 5’6
Calf Circumference: 10-1/2
Thigh Circumference: 17-1/8
Waistband Height: Contour front: 7 in Regular: 3-1/2 in
Waistband Width: 25-1/4
Pocket Size: 6×4
Extra Options: Side pocket/colorblocking/waistband pocket/4 lengths
Types of Waistbands: Mid/High/Contoured
Dislikes: No print layout
Size Range: Hip: 33-58
Gusset: Oval with more pronounced oval on one side
Comments: Overall this pattern has some amazing options for being a free pattern. Lots of people really love the contoured waistband and choose to add that on to their legs of choice. I don’t love how the contour waistband goes down so far in the front, possibly from pregnancy being so fresh, I think it accentuates that part of me. This pattern did provide the best front crotch curve for my body and the back is pretty flattering too. For anyone’s first pair of leggings I think this is a great starting point and it’s FREE.
5004 Ninjas
Stretch Required: 50%
Size made: S->M waist L hip mid rise ankle length
Drafted Height: Based on inseam for lengths
Calf Circumference: 11
Thigh Circumference: 17-3/4
Waistband Height: 2
Waistband Width: 28
Pocket Size: Waistband pocket 2-1/4×3-3/4
Extra Options: 4 rise options/7 lengths/key waistband pocket
Types of Waistbands: Fabric or exposed elastic
Dislikes: No waistband options
Size Range: Hip: 34-61
Gusset: Diamond
Comments: I love these pants. They don’t move around AT ALL. I wore them for a really long run and they didn’t chafe or move around at all. I also really enjoy that they have no side seam I think it makes them look more seamless. I would wear these to run everyday, the minimalness of the waistband makes them super easy to wear under my running vest. If I was going to wear them for everyday I would look into adding a contour waistband probably from the strides. This is my second 5004 pattern and I’m not sure why I haven’t made more I love these just as much as the jessie!
Jalie Claras
Stretch Required: 60%
Size made: X ankle length
Drafted Height: Trunk height per size
Calf Circumference: 10-1/4
Thigh Circumference: 15-7/8
Waistband Height: Elastic: 3/4 in Fabric: 2-3/4 in
Waistband Width: 29-1/2
Pocket Size: None
Extra Options: 3 lengths
Types of Waistbands: Elastic or fabric
Dislikes: None
Size Range: Hip: 22-53
Gusset: Triangle
Comments: I love that it includes kids and adults sizes and that there is only one seam in the waistband. Not having any outer leg seam or front seam. The inseam sits forward though because of no front seam. These are SUPER fast to work up and I will definitely be wearing them again.
We all need to take a minute to giggle at my posture in all these side pics sometime’s I’m up straight sometimes I’m still pregnant LOL.
Review
My favorite pants for running were the 5004 Ninjas, I went for a 9 mile run and didn’t have to adjust them at all. I like how the waistband on these is really minimal so when wearing under my running vest I didn’t have any bulkiness. Although I love these for running I wouldn’t wear them for everyday as I don’t think they’re the most flattering. I am curious how they’d look adding the strides waistband too them and if that would help them be ‘cuter’. For my next pair I would like to do the pegs crotch curve, it looks like it fits me the best with the back of the strides. I am really tall and have been pregnant for three years (actually) so my booty is more deflated than it used to be. I think the accent piece on the strides give me the most flattering backside.
The Jalie Claras have a higher required stretch than the other patterns which is something to note and are the only pair that don’t have a from crotch seam. If you find that point usually is irritating for you then definitely try these. They are really comfortable and I will be wearing them again.
Negative ease: When the garment is finished smaller than your body measurement. With the supplex the garment is much smaller than your body measurements because it has such great stretch and recovery. This is a list of the patterns from least to most negative ease so the patterns at the top stretch less to fit you (aren’t as tight) as the patterns towards the end of the list.
So I saw these workout pants on instagram every time I logged on for a whole month! They were stalking me. Haha. I looked up reviews for them and they were completely awful. So I set out to hack them… my first real hack. So intimidating!
I used the Strides from Greenstyle Creations as the base pattern. Hoping I could successfully hack them into pants inspired by the Enduraged ad. Even though I used the Strides, the good news is you can use any legging pattern! The less pattern pieces the better but whichever legging pattern that fits you best is perfect. If you don’t have a paid pattern that you love and are looking for a free single piece legging pattern try the Pattern for Pirates Peg legs or the 5oo4 ninjas (Coupon Codes located in their facebook groups)
First I printed my pattern in my size and taped it together as normal. For the strides I taped the three leg pieces together (not including the waistband) making sure to overlap them with the correct seam allowance for the pattern, ⅜”. Then I transferred the sketch to the pattern piece.
This pattern was drafted on a capri length size small so you might need minor tweaks. Sketching on tracing paper seemed to work best for us with keeping the curves rounded instead of pointy. Then you can cut out your mirrored image pattern pieces adding your desired seam allowance to every new inner seam, I used ¼” and assembled from the bottom up, serging before topstitching the inner leg seam.
Front View Back View
Requires approximately 2.5 yards of supplex, varies by color blocking and size
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