Pattern Hack: Lace Panty Waist Band

Hey, Hey! Today I wanted to share with you all a quick hack for switching out the elastic finishing on top of a panty pattern for a more flattering and smoothing wide lace waistband using the stretch lace trim from Phee! When my two new panty sewing patterns released last week (check them out on Etsy if you haven’t seen them yet!) one of the biggest requests I had was for an option for a wide lace waistband and I am more than happy to oblige! This is a super easy “hack” if you can even call it that and can be used on any panty pattern.

Here is what you will need:

  • A pair of in progress panties completed up until the finishing o the waist opening
  • A piece of 2″-3″ wide stretch lace trim, at least the length of your hip measurement
  • Thread that will coordinate with the lace trim

Begin by measuring the waist opening of your panty. You will then need to cut your lace trim measurement to that length minus two inches.

Place the short ends of your lace on top of each other right sides together. Run a row of stitching down the short end of the lace using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Press the seam open. Top stitch 1/4 of an inch down either side of the seam. Trim the excess lace down to the top stitching.

Quarter both your panty opening and lace waistband using pins to mark the quarter points. Use the seam in the waist band is one quarter point for the waist band. Use the side seams in your pant as two of the quarter points for the panty.

Slip the waistband piece, right sides out, on the panty piece. The wrong side of the waistband should be to thing the right side of the panty. How far down the waist band should be on the panty is a combination of your personal preference and how wide your lace is. I used two and a half inch wide lace and overlapped the waist band 3/4 of an inch. Pin the waist band in place generously all around the opening.

Using a small zig-zag stitch sew the waist band to panty as close to the bottom edge of the lace as you can.  Sew another line of zig zag stitches one half to three quarters of an inch up from the first line of stitching. Trim down any excess panty on the inside to the second line of stitching.

Press well and you are done!

Customizing the Mama Vicki

Years ago, I joined a healthy living/weight loss challenge at work. The organizer knew me personally and was short on team leaders so she asked me if I would lead a group.

{I have a hard time saying “no.”}

Within one minute of meeting with my team, one of the ladies asked me what my qualifications were to lead the group.

Once I recovered from being put on the spot, I confessed… None. I had zero qualifications. She was greatly displeased…

So, here we are today to discuss making underwear and I confess to you – I have precious little “expertise” in making undergarments! But I can sew and this is truly a super simple make. Two pattern pieces… a bit of elastic and lace… and voila! You have a pretty perfect pair of underwear!

{This is me… wearer of underwear, but neither expert maker nor model of underwear. You get flatlays today. Haha!}

I was part of the testing group for the Made for Mermaids Mama Vicki pattern and had a great time trying out different ways to customize the pattern. While they are all hipster-style briefs, it offers high-, mid-, and low-rise options. I’m going to show you a few different ways to dress them up, using the low-rise style.

The pattern directions are incredibly simple to follow so I won’t be sharing a step-by-step for making the garment itself.


For these two versions, I used Phee Fabrics’ rayon spandex. Rayon spandex is the softest, silkiest, dreamiest knit fabric I’ve ever worked with. It makes an amazing pair of underwear!

I was inspired by my favorite style from Soma Intimates and decided to add a pretty lace detail to the front.

There is no right or wrong placement of the lace detail, but you want to make sure the sides mirror one another. I measured in 3.5″ from the top edge and 3″ from the leg edge to ensure identical placement.

I attached the lace with a small zigzag stitch and trimmed the top and bottom to match the curves of the garment.

The pattern instructions direct you to add the trims – be it picot, lace, or standard elastic – and “join” them in the side seams. Here’s how that process looks:

Stretch the lace to fit the length of the entire leg opening!

Then, sew up one side of the brief. Repeat the process with the waistband elastic. Sew up the second side of the brief.

And here’s why I don’t like this method…

It’s tough to match up the fabric and trim. However, if you look at any of your RTW undies, you’ll see the same method used.

I prefer to join in the round – meaning sew a circle from your trim or elastic and attach once the brief is already assembled. It’s a little more work, but it makes for a much cleaner look. That’s what I’ve done with this pair.

I’ll demonstrate joining in the round with my next pair.

Once you’ve attached your lace, you’ll want to trim your fabric to match the curve of the lace.

I love these!!

Fold-over Elastic

Fold-over elastic (FOE) is a great way to finish the edge of an undergarment. It’s very easy to work with! Just fold over and sew with a zig-zag stitch.

I really “went fancy” with this make and added some wide lace to the sides. To do so, I basted the edges of my briefs together.

I then attached the lace by lining up the center of the lace with the side seam and sewed the edges with a zig-zag stitch.

I trimmed the lace to match the curve of my brief and then cut out the fabric behind the lace.

I prepped my trim for joining in the round by sewing the seam allowance of my FOE to create a circle… Matched the quarter points of my brief with the quarter points of my FOE…

Then attached with a zig-zag stitch.

So simple! And such a clean look all around.

Mixing Fabrics

I consider this fabric match both a win and a fail.

I swore I’d use every scrap of my beloved oatmeal rayon spandex from Phee and I had just enough left for a front panty panel. I paired it with Phee’s camo powernet and did a simple black picot elastic trim.

The pair didn’t photograph very well, but I decided to share anyway! They aren’t as wonky as they appear here.

Why a win? Talk about lift, ladies! Powernet is as awesome for lifting the backside as it is the girls…

Why a fail? Size up when using powernet. This experiment resulted in a VERY cheeky pair of briefs, which I will totally wear, but will definitely be sizing up for my next pair!

I think the biggest lesson that I’ve learned in prepping for this panty party is that it’s okay to experiment with different design ideas when you have a winning pattern. And panties are the ULTIMATE use for leftover scrap fabric. When I think about how much I’ve spent on underwear in the past, it’s exciting to know I have the ability to make a better fitting garment with supplies I already have on hand.

Now, I just need a bigger underwear drawer…

Sew-With-Me: Evie La Luve Frankie Panties

Ah the granny panty. The comfy panty. The period panty. The sleeping panty.

Whatever you call them, most of us have them and we love them though we don’t want people to ever see them or know how much we love them. But they don’t have to be something that we hide, comfy panties can be just as pretty to look at as the rest of our lingerie drawer, especially for those of us that are able to sew our very own! My personal go to for comfy, every day panties is style five of Evie La Luve’s Frankie panties. This are a nice full coverage, a side waistband, and are super comfortable for both everyday and all of the lounging we usually associate with this “kind” of panties.

The Frankie panty pattern can be made classic, and simply like I am showing here or lacy and sexy. There are many different views included in the one pattern giving it great bang for your buck! I shared a few different lacy versions, all from Phee fabrics on SewUprising if you are interested in checking out more of what this pattern can do! Continue reading