Making the Orange Lingerie Boylston in a 36J

If you have seen any of my sewing posts or makes I am well known having large natural breasts and with a full bust of 44.5″ to 47″ (depending on the support of the bra I am wearing at the time) and an under bust of 34.5″ I find it extremely hard to go bra shopping and find something that fits “OK”. I usually find myself purchasing a 38H or a 40H in the Cacique line through Lane Bryant and I feel socially acceptable meaning I am supported enough to not feel like a broken-down milk cow. In reality, I pop out of the top of a 38H when I bend over and the 40H is too big in the band so it shifts up in the back as well as the underwires fall to the side/back of my rib cage leaving uncomfortable rub spots.

I have been stalking the bra making forums and bra making pattern designers for almost a year now but there is A LOT of information out there! I have read articles and excerpts on how to draft a bra pattern based on measurements but with two small children and running the family commercial print company there is not a lot of time to wrap my head around a project like that. Then Melissa of Phee Fabrics says, “Hey, I am stocking bra kits, foam and underwires!” My first thought was … Shiiit, I’m really going to have to do this …

After many people with larger cup sizes recommended a designer I went ahead and messaged Orange Lingerie on Facebook. She was extremely helpful in pointing me to the right direction based on my measurements and what I needed in a bra: support and variety. At this point in my life the last PRETTY bra I was able to own was when I could squeeze into a 36F from Frederick’s of Hollywood! So I purchased the Orange Lingerie Boylston with a recommended size of 36J.


I was thinking I would just take you from pattern purchase to the grand finale but after having my hands on all of the different fabrics – some of which were entirely new to me in my over 25 years of sewing – I thought I would take you through this journey to perfecting MY bra in hopes you will join me!


From the top, clockwise, we have the poly-laminate foam, white Techsheen and white 40 denier Tricot. I could go on and on about these but the Phee website has already listed all the important info on the website. I will, however, point out that the foam is chlorine-safe! Meaning if you need/want custom swim cups this is PERFECT. If you are overwhelmed with all the notions, Phee Fabrics also has bra kits.

Before you really dive in to sewing your bra I would recommend sewing some test scraps with these fabrics and make notes, especially if you are new to them. By writing the stitch lengths, widths and tensions on the scraps, I will be able to toss these into my sewing bag for future reference.

The Boylston is not originally written for foam but it was was easy to convert using Cloth Habit’s series to make a foam cup bra from an existing pattern.


An extra item I used on this first round was double galloon lace as I followed the instructions from Orange Lingerie to make a lace upper cup based on an existing pattern. Something to remember that DOES NOT come in the bra kits are the underwires (refer to your pattern for the correct size and shape) and underwire casing – don’t ask me how I know *wink*. Another great thing is that you can return the underwires that don’t fit. If you forget these items, you will neeeed to place another Phee order – OH DARN! Here’s the inside view and as a first go-round with a real bra I am beyond pleased!

I have a few fit issues I need to work out. I feel the cup seams all meet at the right place over my nipples but once all of the breast tissue is in the cup I have a little extra over flow in the upper cup. I think I want to find a way to add more upper cup coverage and to see about what solutions there are to prevent slipping of the shoulder straps whether that is strap placement or addition of silicone. I know the slippage is due to having such developed neck/shoulder muscles from carrying so much breast weight over the years.


I am ecstatic that after one trial run I have a wearable muslin and the enthusiasm to try again (and again) with some adjustments. I already have dreams of all the pretty, custom-fitting bras I will have in my rotation instead of literally only 2 real, poor-fitting bras I wash repetitively. Here are my plans for a glorious pairing of Phee gorgeousness … the amethyst bra findings kit (don’t forget to add the amethyst underwire casing).

I hope you will join me as I continue on this crazy, scary, exciting bra making journey!!!

Adventures in Foam: Marlborough Bra from Orange Lingerie

Hey Yall! It’s Nicki back with another bra! IT has been a hot minute since I shared a Phee bra but this is by no means My first one! If you haven’t seen them in the past check out my previous bralettes for the heavily breasted post which is still one of my all time favs!

Normally I stick to soft bras or wired bras with soft cups but recently I took a little bit of a detour and made one of my favorite bra patterns, the Orange Lingerie Marlborough Bra in a nude Phee lace and foam. It had been a hot minute since I worked with bra foam and I forgot both how fun and challenging it can be to work with!

The Marlborough bra has a fairly rounded shape a a built in power bra which is great for people like me who have Omega shaped breasts (breasts that are wider than the root) and works pretty well with the Phee heavy duty vertical wires with no adjustments for me at least.

It also features a pretty extensive size range, 30A to 40J, which is great! As someone who wear a “non-standard” size of 34H this is one of the few bra patterns that comes in my size that can actually be both cute and functional. I have made this bra a few times before and developed my fit to be near perfect for me with a few key alterations, the biggest one being splitting the bottom cup to add more depth to the cup. I like to do this on a lot of bra actually to help get a perfect fit for my omega shape. to be honest though I so think I made at least five muslins of this bra before finally perfecting my fit.

This is definitely a pattern for the more experienced bra sewist than a bralette but the instructions are really well written and walk you through the sometimes confusing construction of an underwire bra really nicely. I would say expect your first bra or too to be less than perfect no matter what pattern you are using however as you learn the techniques of lingerie sewing and find the right stitch width and length on your machine for all of the elastics and specialty fabrics.

I was on the hunt for a really wearable everyday t shirt type bra that could be worn for 16+ hours without becoming uncomfortable which is why I went for a foam bra to add a little more support and a beige/tan color that can be worn under just about any basic top I own. The Phee nude bra kit was perfect for what I was looking for and I think it turned out a very Wacol style everyday bra. Overall this bra took a bit longer than I was expecting but it turned out to be such a wearable and needed make that I am so glad I tackled.