Tag: Lace Trim

Tween Capsule

My daughter has come into the size range where it’s hard to find patterns that are sized for her, this age range is known as the tween ages. Being a tween is when you’re no longer an age that is a single digit, but also not yet a teen. You’re probably thinking, yeah, I already know that. The other definition of tween is between, and in the PDF pattern world, there are only a fraction of the patterns available for between child and adult sizes.

When searching for designers, I found a lot that said they were tween, but many really only went up to size 12, which in my eyes doesn’t quite make it to adult size. For those who do, there aren’t a ton of different designs available. And with all honesty, if I’m going to buy a pattern for my daughter, I don’t want her to be at the top of the size chart, I want to be able to use the same pattern for a few different sizes.

With my daughter’s clothing she weighs in on these three things equally:

  1. How does it (the fabric) feel? She loves anything soft, everything from Phee checks this box, so I never have to worry.
  2. Do I like it? Sometimes I’ll show her patterns to see if she likes them, other times Pinterest when I see something cute. As long as she likes it, this box gets checked. I also like just going my idea, and seeing what happens, this works most of the time.
  3. Is it comfortable? She refuses to wear anything that isn’t comfortable. I don’t blame her.

When working on her capsule I knew that she needed basics that she could mix and match together as well with any prints that she has. One things she lacks is solids, so adding these solids that don’t look basic are perfect for her.

Jumper and Basic Tee

Violette Field Threads Maddie Jumper in Black Stretch Twill and Hey June City Park Tee in White Rayon Spandex

She said she wanted overalls, but I kept seeing really cute jumpers/pinafores all over, so I really wanted to make one. I chose Phee’s stretch twill (black) because it’s durable and super easy to wash. It also doesn’t wrinkle, so she can change for PE if needed throw it in her locker and when she puts it back on, it won’t look like a mess.

Basic tees were definitely needed, and the City Park Tee was a perfect patch to Phee’s 13oz Rayon Spandex. She will definitely outgrow this t-shirt well before it shows any signs of wear. I love that the fabric is easy to sew because of its thickness, is super soft (which she loves), and doesn’t pill after repeated washings.

Joggers and Basic Tee

Hey June City Park Tee in Turquoise Rayon Spandex and Sofilantjes Domi Sweat Pants in Black Rayon Spandex

Surprise another City Park Tee in you guessed it, rayon spandex. Seriously, the best part of this outfit is these joggers. She put these on and couldn’t get over how soft and comfortable they were! And her favorite part is the pockets. I chose to use some scraps from my leftover tee to bring some color to the joggers.

Overalls and Fancy Top

Abby’s Overalls by The Wolf and the Tree in Charcoal Supplex and Sew a Little Seam Brynn Top in Orchid Rayon Spandex

She got her overalls, but she won’t be wearing these for much longer. Don’t forget to double check measurements before cutting your fabric and sewing. I thought I was using the correct size, but I actually cut out the pattern that I had from months ago. I promised her that I’ll be making her a bigger size though, because they are too cute and she’s not off the chart for these yet.

Phee’s supplex is my favorite when it comes to making bottoms for my daughter. I don’t have to worry about holes, as the fabric is super strong yet really soft.

When the Brynn Top was first released I was excited for all the different options. When we were on a flight I was looking at the pattern and she started oooing and ahhing at the different tester pics. I knew one way to let this pattern showcase itself was to use Phee’s solid rayon spandex and let the design speak for itself. I just love the way these sleeves drape.

Leggings and Knotted Top

Jalie Clara Leggings in Black 18oz Supplex and Sew a Little Seam Brynn Top in Light Heathered Gray Rayon Spandex, with Orchid Rayon Spandex trim

This girl loves leggings from Phee’s supplex, I think because it’s just like the Ivivva (Lululemon’s brand for girls) leggings she has. This also isn’t her first pair of Clara leggings, and I love how fast these are to sew since they don’t have a center front seam.

Another Brynn Top, as she had other feature requests which were too many to do all in one shirt, so I opted for two. I used some leftover of the orchid rayon spandex which works beautifully with this light heathered gray. If you can’t tell I also used it as a contrast on the side knot and the hem facing, which adds a pop of color.

Bonus Sweatshirt

Sinclair Patterns Demi (one of my favorites) in Oatmeal Cozy French Terry, Oatmeal Rayon Spandex, and Medium Pink 2.5″ Stretch Lace Trim

She’s finally in the size chart for Sinclair Patterns! I used the Petite size and shorted all pieces even more in multiple places throughout to get a pattern just right. I couldn’t be happier!

This sweatshirt was a labor of love for me. It all started with a Pinterest picture and I instantly knew I had to make it for her. The new Cozy French Terry is so soft and fluffy, so it was perfect for her list. The oatmeal cozy French terry and the medium pink lace look sooo good together!

There’s a few hacks I made to the Demi, I didn’t just add lace to the sleeves, I cut away part of the fabric from underneath the lace. I used a narrow zig zag to attach the lace while the sleeve was flat.

I also added thumb cuffs, because I know she loves them. I had some oatmeal rayon spandex in my stash, so I opted for that on the neckband, thumb cuffs, and bottom band. I’m so happy with the way this turned out.

Her Favorites

We all have our own favorites, but I just had to ask her what her favorite item was. She couldn’t give me a straight up answer, I think it’s because she likes everything so much. Instead, this is what she said:

  • Outfit: Jumper and Basic Tee
  • Top: Orchid Brynn Top
  • Pants: Rayon Spandex Domi Joggers

If you stuck with me this far, please let me know what your favorite outfit or item is. I can’t wait to hear what you think!

Note: This post may contain affiliate links to products. All opinions and thoughts are my own. I may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.

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Ready to Wear: Something More

I am generally a very simple dresser. Jeans or yoga pants, and a tee shirt are my uniform when I am not at work. This project made me revisit a staple that most of us have in our closets: a plain black tee shirt.

I used a pinsperation that I knew I could wear. It was cute and I loved the detail.

I used a shirt that I liked the fit of (an inexpensive V-neck tee shirt). And I used stretch lace that I KNEW was high quality ( https://pheefabrics.com/9-lavender-stretch-lace-trim/ ).

Just prior to this project I had knee surgery. I was crutch bound and knew it was going to be difficult if I needed to try this on a million times and crutch to the mirror to check the fit.

To mitigate these issues, I decided that this would be a draping project as opposed to a flat pattern drafting project. This means I used a dress form and scissors and pins. There is a learning curve to draping, but it can be a lot of fun and gives you a lot of freedom if your sewing for someone who isn’t around and if you are sewing with finiky fabric.

Draping is also handy when sewing adaptations to ready to wear items or already constructed pieces.

This is Grace, my dress form. She lost her base in a move a few years back. This was the next best thing. As Grace is made of plastic, she has a basic knit sheath on so I have something to pin to.

I measured meticulously, marked with chalk, pinned the shirt in place, then cut off the shoulders and upper sleeves.

Initially, the lace created a shawl type collar. This was not really my jam, so I pinned the lace in place, maintaining the galloon lace edge, and trimmed the lace to resemble a conventional tee shirt collar line. I attached the lace with a basic stretch stitch (a zip zag in my case). I used fold over elastic, unfolded, as a neckline trim. I did a simple fold over hem for the sleeves.

In the photo, there is a little bit of pulling at the upper bust. Grace has a more endowed chest than I do, so I tightened the material a bit on the chest, knowing it would suit me when I put it on.

The project worked so well due to the quality of the lace. It was stable, did not warp, and was basically gorgeous and awesome.

The modified tee is comfy and cute. I will probably be doing a similar modification with several other Phee Fabrics stretch lace colors, because LACE!!!!

Blue hair, cute shirt, and crutches. Happy summer!

Are you a pinspiration creator??? Phee Fabrics is having a contest this August for all you pinspirers! Check it out! Phee Pinspiration Challenge

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Making the Orange Lingerie Boylston in a 36J

If you have seen any of my sewing posts or makes I am well known having large natural breasts and with a full bust of 44.5″ to 47″ (depending on the support of the bra I am wearing at the time) and an under bust of 34.5″ I find it extremely hard to go bra shopping and find something that fits “OK”. I usually find myself purchasing a 38H or a 40H in the Cacique line through Lane Bryant and I feel socially acceptable meaning I am supported enough to not feel like a broken-down milk cow. In reality, I pop out of the top of a 38H when I bend over and the 40H is too big in the band so it shifts up in the back as well as the underwires fall to the side/back of my rib cage leaving uncomfortable rub spots.

I have been stalking the bra making forums and bra making pattern designers for almost a year now but there is A LOT of information out there! I have read articles and excerpts on how to draft a bra pattern based on measurements but with two small children and running the family commercial print company there is not a lot of time to wrap my head around a project like that. Then Melissa of Phee Fabrics says, “Hey, I am stocking bra kits, foam and underwires!” My first thought was … Shiiit, I’m really going to have to do this …

After many people with larger cup sizes recommended a designer I went ahead and messaged Orange Lingerie on Facebook. She was extremely helpful in pointing me to the right direction based on my measurements and what I needed in a bra: support and variety. At this point in my life the last PRETTY bra I was able to own was when I could squeeze into a 36F from Frederick’s of Hollywood! So I purchased the Orange Lingerie Boylston with a recommended size of 36J.

BoylstonRd-1

I was thinking I would just take you from pattern purchase to the grand finale but after having my hands on all of the different fabrics – some of which were entirely new to me in my over 25 years of sewing – I thought I would take you through this journey to perfecting MY bra in hopes you will join me!

BoylstonRd-6

From the top, clockwise, we have the poly-laminate foam, white Techsheen and white 40 denier Tricot. I could go on and on about these but the Phee website has already listed all the important info on the website. I will, however, point out that the foam is chlorine-safe! Meaning if you need/want custom swim cups this is PERFECT. If you are overwhelmed with all the notions, Phee Fabrics also has bra kits.

Before you really dive in to sewing your bra I would recommend sewing some test scraps with these fabrics and make notes, especially if you are new to them. By writing the stitch lengths, widths and tensions on the scraps, I will be able to toss these into my sewing bag for future reference.

The Boylston is not originally written for foam but it was was easy to convert using Cloth Habit’s series to make a foam cup bra from an existing pattern.

BoylstonRd-10

An extra item I used on this first round was double galloon lace as I followed the instructions from Orange Lingerie to make a lace upper cup based on an existing pattern. Something to remember that DOES NOT come in the bra kits are the underwires (refer to your pattern for the correct size and shape) and underwire casing – don’t ask me how I know *wink*. Another great thing is that you can return the underwires that don’t fit. If you forget these items, you will neeeed to place another Phee order – OH DARN! Here’s the inside view and as a first go-round with a real bra I am beyond pleased!

I have a few fit issues I need to work out. I feel the cup seams all meet at the right place over my nipples but once all of the breast tissue is in the cup I have a little extra over flow in the upper cup. I think I want to find a way to add more upper cup coverage and to see about what solutions there are to prevent slipping of the shoulder straps whether that is strap placement or addition of silicone. I know the slippage is due to having such developed neck/shoulder muscles from carrying so much breast weight over the years.

BoylstonRd-11

I am ecstatic that after one trial run I have a wearable muslin and the enthusiasm to try again (and again) with some adjustments. I already have dreams of all the pretty, custom-fitting bras I will have in my rotation instead of literally only 2 real, poor-fitting bras I wash repetitively. Here are my plans for a glorious pairing of Phee gorgeousness … the amethyst bra findings kit (don’t forget to add the amethyst underwire casing).

I hope you will join me as I continue on this crazy, scary, exciting bra making journey!!!

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A Quick and Easy Sew

We have all been there – it’s the middle of winter (or spring, or summer) and all the sewing mojo (sewjo) is gone. That magical motivation to start and/or complete a sewing project has somehow evaporated. Either life has gotten too busy, work has taken over, or one of a myriad of other elements of our existence on this spinning ball of carbon based molecules.

For me, it was 60 hour work weeks, a recently disabled and blind father, and a few other things that made my life feel like a bad movie. I work what could be a very Debbie Downer of a job and sewing and crafting is my therapy. When my sewjo is gone, it’s not good for anyone!!!

What I have found helped me get my groove back is a simple and quick sew. Made for Mermaids’ Victoria Cheekies underwear pattern fit the bill for me. This pattern required less than two yards of stretch galloon (gal – looooooon, not gal – lun like the liquid quantity) lace, and a very small amount of cotton lycra (I used an old shirt).

Now what the hell is galloon lace? Its actually just lace with scallops on both sides!

I used the Mauve 9 inch wide stretch lace from Phee Fabrics. Now, I can tell you from experience that not all stretch lace is created equal. The Phee stretch lace is much, much, much higher quality. When stretched, the tiny elastic fibers aren’t evident. When stretched, the fabric doesn’t warp. THIS IS KEY IN UNDERWEAR!!!!!

What I am trying to say is this galloon lace is REALLY good quality. I wore this underwear the day after I made it and it had some smoothing qualities. I was thoroughly impressed!! The quality of the lace is equivalent to that of a high end lace. And its not itchy…….

For this pattern, you can use a range of widths of lace. I used 9 inch lace, but I have made this pattern with 6 inch lace. It all depends upon how much of your booty you want covered. I am about a US 16 and it covered the WHOLE booty.

First – remember to measure well. I love M4M patterns because they use colors rather than numbers for sizes. People get so hung up on sizes and rather than go off measurements, they select a size. I was between 2 sizes, but I know that when I make the larger size in M4M, it falls off my ass. So I opted for the smaller size.

I cut this double. You can cut two singles, but this lace is sturdy and did not slip at all. Remember – you don’t have to cut the top or bottom edges when using the galloon lace.

Now cutting stretch lace is…..interesting, because of all the holes. I use small, sharp scissors. This lace is thicker than some and so I used these fiskars micro tips to cut the curve. This lace is AWESOME! It cut nicely along the curve .

When piecing, I pin a lot. This lace doesn’t slip, but I want to ensure that my seam is well placed.


I used grey thread. This color mauve works well with a medium grey. Grey thread all but disappears.

After the sides are stitched, it is recommended to topstitch the seams to the side. This makes for a more comfortable wear. It also makes the liner sit flat. I then connected the smaller end together and closed up the crotch.

When cutting a liner for undergarments, there is not really a need for purchasing new cotton lycra. I do machine embroidery and have several screw up shirts, or as I like to call them “future tester material” (Yeh right!). Plain old tshirt material works perfectly for liners.

These take very little fabric and can be cut using conventional scissors. It is recommended to stitch around the edges using a zigzag or serger stitch. I used the same grey thread.

I then stitched it into the crotch of the undergarment.

Over all, this piece took less than an hour. It was a fulfilling sew that I could wear the next day. My over all cost was less than $10!!!! This style of store bought would probably cost around $20, and not be as comfy…… It made me feel accomplished when my sewjo was not in top form. I feel like replacing some of my more boring undies with some pretty lace cheekies. Hey – Phee Fabrics – Keep stocking more lace!!!! I am in love with it and so is my sewjo!!

Have questions, comments, concerns, funny jokes? Give me a holler! thirteenstardesigns@gmail.com

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Bodysuit…with a thong option.

Hello y’all! Alisha here.

I love the idea of a body suit but I always think I’d like to wear them with pants that hug the booty BUT I hate panty lines SO I did something about it.

I mashed the Tai bodysuit with the Greta Thong from Made for Mermaids and voila!! It’s perfection and seriously so comfortable! I do believe a lot of the comfort has to do with the amazing Rayon Spandex from Phee Fabrics! I used the navy and also lined the crotch with the winter white (no longer available) For the leg bands I used the Navy 2.5 inch lace and I cut it in half to use for the bands (it worked out perfectly!) for my body I did the scoop back and 3/4 length sleeeves.

How I made my mash. I first used the high waisted Greta thong option (you could use any height, I just did the high waisted cause that’s what I’m going to make for the thongs and it made my life easier 🤷🏻‍♀️ Lol) I laid the Greta pattern piece on the Tai body suit and lined the Greta crotch piece up with the end of the Tai crotch and that traced the Greta till I got to the sides of the tai and than used the Tai pattern piece for the rest of my pattern. Mine looks like this:

I sewed the crotch as directed for the Greta I than serged the lace to the front and back leg openings. I than sewed the shoulder seams, added the sleeves, than the neck band, sewed up the sides and MAGIC! This is going to be my go to for the summer! Super comfy and no panty lines 🙌🏻

Thank you so much for reading along and any questions please feel free to ask!!

Muah! Alisha

Patterns links below!

https://www.madeformermaids.com/product/greta/

https://www.madeformermaids.com/product/mamatai/

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Lace All Day, Every Day!

When I think of lace, I tend to think of special occasions or intimate apparel, but you can use lace to add pretty details to your every day wear!

I love the patterns from Sew House Seven, so when they came out with the Merlo Field Tee, I knew I had to have it. “Casual, comfortable, and sporty knit tee”…”a slightly tomboyish vibe”…”wide, oversized body”…add all that together, and it sounds like the perfect shirt for me. In addition, the drop shoulder sleeves are usually flattering for my wide shoulders, and I don’t have to worry about making any adjustments.

The pattern comes with cute sleeve and shoulder insets, which makes for easy color-blocking and lets you use up some pretty scraps of fabric as accent pieces. They also recommend you use a drapey knit, so I knew that the Rayon Spandex from Phee Fabrics would be absolutely perfect. Phee also carries high quality lace fabrics as well, and I thought it would be fun to use the lace as my accent fabric.

I selected this gorgeous burgundy rayon spandex and mauve stretch lace.

MerloTee1

The stretch lace is 9″ wide, so I was able to fit both pattern pieces on one foldover. You need to cut 2 mirrored of each pattern piece – one will be the shoulder inset, and one will be the sleeve inset.

MerloTee2

As you can see in the picture, I had my pieces right up to the edge on top, as I wanted to save that bottom scallop. I decided I wanted to use that for my neckline. That meant I didn’t need to cut the neckband double width, as you usually do, but only about half. So I just took that leftover part, which was about 1″ wide, and cut it to the length of the neckband piece.

MerloTee3

Because I was using the lace instead of fabric, I wanted to make sure that my seam allowances wouldn’t show through. Therefore, when the pattern instructed me to press the SA towards the insets and then top-stitch, I did the opposite. I pressed all my SA to the fabric side and then top-stitched so that it wouldn’t “flip up” and show through the lace.

Tip: A walking foot is really helpful when top-stitching drapey fabrics like rayon spandex!

For the neckband, I just took my 1″ wide piece of lace, stitched the short sides together to make a band, and then attached it to the neck opening as you would usually do. However, I did take a bit bigger seam allowance when attaching the neckband – about 1/2″ instead of the normal 3/8″ as called for in the pattern.

And that’s it! I love the scalloped neckline detail, and it was so easy to do! As for the pattern itself, I used the wider neckline option and the 3/4 sleeve. The only other change I made to the pattern was to add about 2″ to the length because I prefer a little more length to my tops (helps cover up any squishy bits).

I definitely see more of these tops in my future! I’m thinking I’ll try the short-sleeve version next as I dream of warmer days…

Happy Sewing!

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