Strathcona Henley SAL Day 3

Today we’re finally sewing! We’re going to be doing the shoulder seams, sleeves, and side seams!

First we’re going to sew the shoulder seams. Align the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice with right sides together and then sew. Here I’m using the olive rayon spandex.




Now that the shoulder seams are done we’re going to sew the sleeves. There are five notches on the sleeve pattern piece one in the center, two for the front bodice, and two for the back. The notches for the FRONT have the one notch that is closer to the center notch.



I always forget to mark my notches so often I have to mark them with pins afterwards haha.


Here I lined up the sleeve notches with the pinned notches on the bodice pieces. It’s really important to make sure that the front of your sleeve is with the front bodice otherwise the shoulder seam will pucker this sleeve cap ISN’T symmetrical.

Alright once the sleeves are both attached we’re going to be doing the side seams!

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All of these photos are of the olive but most of them we’re taken with a flash that’s why they look so different.

First I like to line up the seams on the bottom of the armscye and then pin down the side and then down the sleeve. You shouldn’t need to stretch the fabric at all, they should be the same size 🙂



Tomorrow we’ll be doing the cuffs, hem, and neckband! I hope you’re loving your shirt so far.


Strathcona Henley Day 2

Today we are going to be working on the placket! This is the hardest part of the whole thing but after you figure it out the first time it’s smooth sailing. I made a video on the method and then here are some close up shots.

For some reason I always choose dark fabric when making videos why why why haha.

The most confusing part for me was the actual folding of the placket so I put the pictures of that below. At the point of folding the placket you should have the right front of the placket stitched to the garment from the neckline down to 1-1/2 inches from the bottom of the placket piece. On that right side the placket piece is essentially sandwiching the cut raw edge of the bodice. Don’t forget to tuck your seam allowance in there before you stitch.


Moving on to the left side you’ll do the same thing sandwiching the raw cut edge but then at the bottom of the placket piece that extra 1-1/2 inches of the left side will sandwich that same piece on the right side.

Notice how the left placket in the picture is completely wrapped around the right.


Once you have that completed (it’s a little finicky) you need to trim the layers so it’s not so thick. I trimmed everything on the inside of the placket so that when you fold it up it lays flatter.


Notice how the bottom layer of the placket is really thin because I trimmed all of the underlayers. I also like to have my placket completely stitched on before I add the buttons and buttholes so after stitching the placket is when I would ideally add those. I get worried about too much shifting if I try to do it before stitching the placket.


I didn’t realize until it was too late that my main bodice was wrong side out but luckily Travis really doesn’t care! haha. So I just stitched in a square but you can also do the X as suggested if you prefer that look.