Hack

Lulu Inspired Vest Hack

It all started with my run for cold lululemon vest. I wear it all the time, but I really wanted black, as mine is purple. I started with the Twig + Tale Trailblazer Vest, as the lines were perfect for what I was after.

Materials Used

Phee Fabrics Stretch Twill in black
Phee Fabrics Supplex in black
Hobbs Thermore Batting – This batting is low loft and can be stitched up to 9” apart, which makes it great for this project, and was originally created for quilted clothing. It’s also a poly batting so is perfect for what I was after.
Foldable Elastic
- Enough for armholes, and the length of the zipper times 2.

Sizing

I looked at the finished measurements of the pattern to determine my sizing since I knew I was adding a stretch on the sides. I went with the size that was closest to my measurements.

Hacking Pattern Pieces

I highly suggest doing the non-curved back version, as I had to do a lot of hacking to get just the back piece to dip down a little. The curves of my back are not in line with the pattern’s back. When I make another one, I will be doing the straight bottom. Using the straight bottom will also make hacking the side a lot easier.

Using the front side and back side, mark the seam allowance at the armcye. Match these 2 pieces up. Since I used a stretch fabric, I pulled the hem of my pieces to overlap more. I wanted the edges where the side meets up with the front and back to be more parallel to the grain. You also need to add a hem either before cutting, or extending past the bottom SA.

Acronyms Used

RST: right sides together
SA: seam allowance

Cut

Front: 2 exterior, 2 lining (stretch twill)
Back: 2 exterior, 2 lining (stretch twill)
Collar: 1 exterior (stretch twill), 1 lining (supplex)
Side: 2, using new side piece (supplex)

I didn’t do this, but after wearing mine the first time all day, I realized that I should have trimmed the armhole seams off. Learn from my mistake.

Assembly

Before you start, read through all instructions, since this was my first time doing this, there are some steps that could be done in a different order. If you’re an experienced sewist, use your gut, as I know I will be doing it in a different order next time, but I just haven’t wrapped my head around how to go about it.

Pin the front to the batting, making sure to keep everything flat. Baste around the outside within the SA.

Trim batting to line up with the edges of the front. Repeat with other front piece, back and collar.

Quilt the exterior to the interior within the max distance for your batting. I used a triple straight stitch to quilt mine since there is some stretch in the twill, and I wanted to be able to move freely.

Sew shoulder seams of exterior, and attach the collar.

Attach zipper with a basting stitch.

Sew front and back lining pieces together at the shoulders.

Hem side pieces. Don’t be like me and forget how much you added for your hem, write it down. Trying to figure it out was torture.

Pin and baste the side pieces to the back (exterior) RST, starting at the notches and working your way towards the armcye and hem.

Pin lining back bottom (hem) to the exterior back bottom RST, keeping sides out of the way. Stitch together using pattern’s SA, making sure it lines up with the hems of the sides.

Understitch the SA to the lining, starting at least ½” from the side seam. If your hem on the back curves, clip SA, along the curve before understitching.

Tuck sides between the 2 back pieces (exterior and lining), so that backs are RST. Fold SA from the bottom towards the lining. Pin and stitch side seams. Trim SA, then pull it right side out. Press seams.

Flip the front exterior and lining pieces so that they are RST, making sure not to twist the shoulder seams, meeting the hems together. Pin the hem, flipping the bottom of the zipper out of the way, and stitch.

Understitch the SA to the lining from the side seam to at least ½” from center front.

With front pieces RST, pin the side to the front exterior and baste. Work in the same manner as you did the back, to complete the side seam, making sure to turn the SA toward the lining. Trim SA, clip curves, turn right side out, and press.

Pin and baste shoulder exterior and lining together along the armscye. If you didn’t remove the seam allowance from the armcye, do that before basting.

Smooth front lining over to the zipper. Pin and baste in place. I used wonder tape to help with easing the lining to the front.

Match the neckline seam of the lining to the SA on the exterior collar. Pin and baste together. This will be covered with the collar lining, but will help hold everything in place until then. You won’t be able to get right up to the zipper, and that’s okay.

Attach the zipper, stitching through all layers. Add foldable elastic along the edge of the zipper to cover the edge and the SA. This will only go to where the lining stops at the neckline. Leave about ½” past the hem of the zipper to fold under. I attached on one side of the elastic to the zipper, then folded it under and pinned in place for the later. You can do it this way, or attach both sides at the same time.

Pin collar lining to the exterior along the top and front, folding bottom of collar up at the bottom along the zipper. Stitch making sure to stitch along the same stitches you already have from attaching the zipper. If desired, understich the top collar SA to the lining. Turn right side out, and press.

Fold the tail of the foldable elastic up under the zipper towards the inside. Stitch in place and trim any extra.

Pin zipper edge to the lining and top stich from the right side.

Fold collar lining opening under extending just past the seam where the collar meets the neckline. Pin and stitch in the ditch from the right side.

Finish off arm openings with foldable elastic. I slightly stretched as attaching, and this helped to keep everything smooth along the supplex area.

Other things I did

I also hacked some pockets on the front, but they are really small, so I need to figure out better measurements for this. On top of that, I added a windflap to the inside, but my measurements were completely off, so I didn’t share this in my tutorial either.

October 31, 2019August 18, 2022 by Stephanie Categories: Stretch TwillTags: adult, Hack, Lulu, Stretch Twill, Supplex, tutorial, vest Leave a comment

A Cozy Pinspiration Hack

For the last year I’ve been wanting to create this pinspiration and I just never got around to it. I’m a big pullover/jacket fan. I wear them most of the year. Something that I can wear over a tank or throw a jacket on over top, on those super cold mornings.

Back when I was testing the Nova Raglan by Sinclair Patterns) all I could think about was that pinspiration pic from last year. The Nova comes with a bunch of options. Cowl, hood, kangaroo Pocket, etc. Definitely check it out.

That was also my first time using the cozy French terry from Phee Fabrics and it was love! This stuff isn’t super thin and flimsy like some I’ve tried. The word “cozy” describes it perfectly. The fleece backing is so soft and lush. It’s warm but not too hot, and it’s so easy to work with. Everytime I wear anything I’ve made with it, people are always shocked I made it. Then they have to touch it. I’ve been really happy with how it holds up too. For this one, I used the Light Heathered Gray and Dusty Denim. So if you’re looking for great french terry, check this stuff out.

Here’s my disclaimer! There are tons of mistakes. Things I didn’t think through fully and things I need to think about a little more. Lots of seam tipping was done. However I do still love it!!! You can also probably tell when I had to tell my kid to stop screwing with it as I was sewing.

I used a 7” zipper, which I think is fine for me but you could use a 9” if you wanted. You’ll need the front, back, sleeves, cuffs, and a waistband if you choose. The cowl neck, I winged my own. I wanted it similar to my Patagonia so I measured the the height on that and the width across on the cowl pattern piece. I came up with a width of 19” and 4.25” high. I cut one in gray and one in blue but you could easily double that height and cut just one color.

I assembled the shirt except for the seam where that zipper will go and that sleeve/side sleeve. You’re going to attach the cowl to it. I left it all open and just tried to quarter the cowl and the neck of the shirt. For my cowl, I did 2 colors so I had a different color on the inside. So I serged those together first.

You’ll place the cowl right sides together, with it evenly stretched and serge.

I would highly suggest adding some interfacing. Which I intended to do, like I always do when I put a zipper in a knit project. But I couldn’t find mine. I just bought it and I can’t figure out where my husband put it. I would’ve just done some strips on either side of where the zipper was going. Now that I’m done, it will show up. Every.freaking.time!

I’m not going to go into the do’s and don’ts of adding a zipper to a knit fabric because there’s already a phenomenal blog on the Phee Blog about it. It’s a great read!

The top edge of the cowl that’s going to fold over, you can fold 1/4” and press. You’ll need to go back and sew that edge at the seam where you attached the cowl later.

This is where we add the zipper. As far as placement, I started my zipper right around what would be the middle of my cowl.

Make sure everything lines up after you baste that zipper in place.

Then we are going to finish that seam and the side seam. You could also baste that in place before hand. I did it both different ways since I seam ripped a few times.

Once your zipper is in, you’re going to fold your cowl down and top stitch the zipper and then the edge where the cowl and the shirt meet. Remember, we are tacking the inside of the cowl down.

I top stitched my cowl and I like how it turned out. For the cuffs, I did the same as the cowl, with both colors. I chose to hem the bottom rather than add a waistband.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

That’s it! Super easy! Just required a little more focus from me. My next one will be much smoother and much better. I can’t wait to wear this one tomorrow morning! Thanks for reading!

Jessica

October 16, 2019August 18, 2022 by Jhermansen Categories: Cozy French TerryTags: Cozy French Terry, Hack, Hacking, pattern hacks, phee fabrics, Sinclair, Women, Women's Tops Leave a comment

Tween Capsule

My daughter has come into the size range where it’s hard to find patterns that are sized for her, this age range is known as the tween ages. Being a tween is when you’re no longer an age that is a single digit, but also not yet a teen. You’re probably thinking, yeah, I already know that. The other definition of tween is between, and in the PDF pattern world, there are only a fraction of the patterns available for between child and adult sizes.

When searching for designers, I found a lot that said they were tween, but many really only went up to size 12, which in my eyes doesn’t quite make it to adult size. For those who do, there aren’t a ton of different designs available. And with all honesty, if I’m going to buy a pattern for my daughter, I don’t want her to be at the top of the size chart, I want to be able to use the same pattern for a few different sizes.

With my daughter’s clothing she weighs in on these three things equally:

How does it (the fabric) feel? She loves anything soft, everything from Phee checks this box, so I never have to worry.
Do I like it? Sometimes I’ll show her patterns to see if she likes them, other times Pinterest when I see something cute. As long as she likes it, this box gets checked. I also like just going my idea, and seeing what happens, this works most of the time.
Is it comfortable? She refuses to wear anything that isn’t comfortable. I don’t blame her.

When working on her capsule I knew that she needed basics that she could mix and match together as well with any prints that she has. One things she lacks is solids, so adding these solids that don’t look basic are perfect for her.

Jumper and Basic Tee

Violette Field Threads Maddie Jumper in Black Stretch Twill and Hey June City Park Tee in White Rayon Spandex

She said she wanted overalls, but I kept seeing really cute jumpers/pinafores all over, so I really wanted to make one. I chose Phee’s stretch twill (black) because it’s durable and super easy to wash. It also doesn’t wrinkle, so she can change for PE if needed throw it in her locker and when she puts it back on, it won’t look like a mess.

Basic tees were definitely needed, and the City Park Tee was a perfect patch to Phee’s 13oz Rayon Spandex. She will definitely outgrow this t-shirt well before it shows any signs of wear. I love that the fabric is easy to sew because of its thickness, is super soft (which she loves), and doesn’t pill after repeated washings.

Joggers and Basic Tee

Hey June City Park Tee in Turquoise Rayon Spandex and Sofilantjes Domi Sweat Pants in Black Rayon Spandex

Surprise another City Park Tee in you guessed it, rayon spandex. Seriously, the best part of this outfit is these joggers. She put these on and couldn’t get over how soft and comfortable they were! And her favorite part is the pockets. I chose to use some scraps from my leftover tee to bring some color to the joggers.

Overalls and Fancy Top

Abby’s Overalls by The Wolf and the Tree in Charcoal Supplex and Sew a Little Seam Brynn Top in Orchid Rayon Spandex

She got her overalls, but she won’t be wearing these for much longer. Don’t forget to double check measurements before cutting your fabric and sewing. I thought I was using the correct size, but I actually cut out the pattern that I had from months ago. I promised her that I’ll be making her a bigger size though, because they are too cute and she’s not off the chart for these yet.

Phee’s supplex is my favorite when it comes to making bottoms for my daughter. I don’t have to worry about holes, as the fabric is super strong yet really soft.

When the Brynn Top was first released I was excited for all the different options. When we were on a flight I was looking at the pattern and she started oooing and ahhing at the different tester pics. I knew one way to let this pattern showcase itself was to use Phee’s solid rayon spandex and let the design speak for itself. I just love the way these sleeves drape.

Leggings and Knotted Top

Jalie Clara Leggings in Black 18oz Supplex and Sew a Little Seam Brynn Top in Light Heathered Gray Rayon Spandex, with Orchid Rayon Spandex trim

This girl loves leggings from Phee’s supplex, I think because it’s just like the Ivivva (Lululemon’s brand for girls) leggings she has. This also isn’t her first pair of Clara leggings, and I love how fast these are to sew since they don’t have a center front seam.

Another Brynn Top, as she had other feature requests which were too many to do all in one shirt, so I opted for two. I used some leftover of the orchid rayon spandex which works beautifully with this light heathered gray. If you can’t tell I also used it as a contrast on the side knot and the hem facing, which adds a pop of color.

Bonus Sweatshirt

Sinclair Patterns Demi (one of my favorites) in Oatmeal Cozy French Terry, Oatmeal Rayon Spandex, and Medium Pink 2.5″ Stretch Lace Trim

She’s finally in the size chart for Sinclair Patterns! I used the Petite size and shorted all pieces even more in multiple places throughout to get a pattern just right. I couldn’t be happier!

This sweatshirt was a labor of love for me. It all started with a Pinterest picture and I instantly knew I had to make it for her. The new Cozy French Terry is so soft and fluffy, so it was perfect for her list. The oatmeal cozy French terry and the medium pink lace look sooo good together!

There’s a few hacks I made to the Demi, I didn’t just add lace to the sleeves, I cut away part of the fabric from underneath the lace. I used a narrow zig zag to attach the lace while the sleeve was flat.

I also added thumb cuffs, because I know she loves them. I had some oatmeal rayon spandex in my stash, so I opted for that on the neckband, thumb cuffs, and bottom band. I’m so happy with the way this turned out.

Her Favorites

We all have our own favorites, but I just had to ask her what her favorite item was. She couldn’t give me a straight up answer, I think it’s because she likes everything so much. Instead, this is what she said:

Outfit: Jumper and Basic Tee
Top: Orchid Brynn Top
Pants: Rayon Spandex Domi Joggers

If you stuck with me this far, please let me know what your favorite outfit or item is. I can’t wait to hear what you think!

Note: This post may contain affiliate links to products. All opinions and thoughts are my own. I may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.

August 24, 2019June 15, 2020 by Stephanie Categories: Rayon Spandex, Stretch TwillTags: capsule wardrobe, Cozy French Terry, Girls, Hack, Jalie, joggers, Kid's Bottoms, Kid's Tops, Lace Trim, Leggings, Raglan, Rayon Spandex, Sinclair, Stretch Twill, Supplex, tween 1 Comment

My official mom uniform

When Melissa said that August was all about capsules, I was a bit overwhelmed. To be fair, I get overwhelmed easily. Here’s a little secret…..I’ve never sewn a capsule! I know, I know. How crazy is that?! However, what the heck do I make?! I’m a stay at home mom and don’t really dress nice very often. Then I realized that all moms need good basics that they can wear ALL. THE. TIME! Clothes don’t fit the same after having kids, so why not make our own? I live in leggings and tanks. And I always need something to keep me warm. So here’s the rundown.

Before I get into the patterns, here’s a little info on fabric. One thing I learned in my sewing journey, is to use quality fabric. Having good quality stuff, makes my work look better, last longer, and easier to make. Phee Fabrics has never let me down. The quality is always amazing! I love that the descriptions are accurate and the fabrics are sourced in the USA.

I bought the Clara pattern from Jalie months ago and finally made them. I have to say, I’m super happy with the fit. The only adjustments I had to make were height adjustments. I will take an extra inch next pair. I wore them to the gym the other day and they didn’t budge. I used black supplex and they feel like I spent a lot of money!!! Not to mention that I can dress them up or down. They can be worn with anything. Also this supplex is so lush, not to mention, durable. I live in leggings made with Phee’s supplex and this stuff lasts! Not to mention, it’s squatproof!

The staple tank from Greenstyle Creations is a pattern thats gotten lots of use. When I got this ribbing material, I knew I had to make one with it. This stuff is so soft, has amazing drape, and great recovery. I’m totally digging it!

The Harper cardigan from Sinclair Patterns Is a free pattern with a few options for length. I did the cropped length with black supplex. I can wear this with just about anything. I can honestly tell say that I will wear the hell out of this

Last but not least..:.The Jalie Julia has become a new favorite pattern of mine also. I love combining the top and the bra into one. I used Rayon Spandex, powernet, 3/8” picot elastic, bra strap elastic, rings and sliders. Oh and I used supplex for the band. I used picot instead of FOE and bra strap elastic instead of FOE for the straps. I cropped the length on this one.

First you’re going to go ahead and put your bra front and back together. I did French seams on this one. I omitted the darts so that I didn’t have to worry about that seam. It’s not that big of a difference. I wouldn’t omit it on the sports bra though. Attach the bottom band. Then we can put it together with the top.

Put the bra into the top so the wrong sides are together. You’ll notice the bra portion is a little smaller. I stretch it to fit, clip and baste. The other thing that needs to be changed is, that back point, where the two pieces of elastic meet….cut off about an inch so it’s a straight line and fold it over. That way you’ll have a clean edge and enough fabric for the picot to be attached and folded over.

Attach the picot like usual. Start with the front, chest edge. Flat side of the picot in line with the edge of the fabric. Attach with a zig zag. Then turn under and zig zag again. The elastic will be the same length in the front. When you get to the sides, you’ll want to add about an inch to the front, so that you can attach the rings. So attach the elastic to the one side, leaving an inch on the front and on the back. Then do the other side.

After than you’ll attach rings to each piece of elastic sticking up. Make your straps with the sliders. And then attach. Hem last and you’re good to go.

So there you have my idea of the perfect mom uniform. Let’s be honest, it’s the perfect capsule for anyone!! All 4 of these pieces will get lots of wear and they have me looking forward to cooler weather. Thanks for reading!

*Note: affiliate links may be used. By using these links, I gain a small portion at no added cost for you. I promise, it all goes to keeping my sewing habit going😊

August 11, 2019June 17, 2020 by Jhermansen Categories: Rayon SpandexTags: Activewear, Bras, capsule wardrobe, Hack, Jalie, Pants, Powernet/Techsheen, Rayon Spandex, ribbing, Sinclair, Supplex, Tanks, Techniques, tutorial, Women 2 Comments

Tank-spiration

Everyone, I’m alive. Between this (see below) being my forecast for the next week and aftershocks from some silly earth quakes we had earlier this month, I am trying to find my normal back in the sewing room. The perfect project to get me back in the groove (while I await a new sewing machine) is this quick pinspiration that I have been repining for about 3 summers now.

I love the loose drape of the tank top and the high neckline-not to mention the cute cut out with straps! First to start this remake I chose the Tatiania Tank from Stitch Upon a Time. The tank top pattern has the loose flow that pairs perfects with the Rayon Spandex. It already features the high neckline also!

First, to modify the cut out I measured approximately where I wanted it to be cut out. I decided on a 5″ depth and 3.5″ width. I measured the spots and drew in a curve to match the shape I was looking for.

Next I cut out all of the pieces and then measured the length of the cut out edge that will have the binding on it and calculated 85% for my cut length. I attached my binding. The next important part is to make sure that you space the cutout how it should be (the top not too close or too far away to ruin the shape of your cut out). To do this go back to your pattern pieces and measure between the fold line and where your cut out edge was. On my pattern piece above this is 1.75″. From here I measured 1.75″ from the centerline of the neck piece to ensure it was properly aligned.

Next, I created the cross bands by using extra binding sewn shut on itself. I spaced them evenly apart (I need some practice on that one). A word of recommendation here, stretch your cross bands a little so you don’t get flip or sag to it (like my middle one).

Over all I am very happy with my version. Next time I think I will add some clear elastic to the arm hole (it is a hem and not a band or binding) and potentially in the neck band itself for a bit more structure.

This post contain affiliated links, at no cost to you, I receive a bit to help fund my hobby of sewing and blogging. Click here to show the love

July 28, 2019June 17, 2020 by Phee Fabrics Categories: Rayon SpandexTags: Hack, Rayon Spandex, Tanks, tutorial, Women Leave a comment

Mermaid Dreams

This summer I’ve been on a big swimsuit sewing kick. We spend lots of time in the pool, so I guess it makes sense for me to make all the bikinis. I’ve spent the last few weeks scouring Pinterest for good ideas to copy. I ended up with lots of swim inspiration. This one really caught my attention though.

I’m in love with this cerise tricot from Phee Fabrics. The color is so rich and beautiful. I’ve worked with other swim material and have been so frustrated. Swim material can be difficult to work with but this stuff is not. Even though it’s slick, it doesn’t fight me every step of the way. I’ve also been really happy with how well it’s held up. I lined it with the bisque liner. This lining is the best quality stuff I’ve worked with. And my machine doesn’t try to eat it, which is so awesome. I did the adjustable straps so I used my rings, sliders, and 1/4″‘clear elastic from Phee also. If you’re looking for clear elastic, look no further. It’s so much cheaper than anyone else!

This ruffle hack is super easy. You could do it with most patterns. To get this specific look, I used the Heiress top from Swim Style and for the bottoms, I used my favorite bottom pattern ever..the Manhattan bikini bottoms from Miko suit supplies. I have the fit perfected on these so I have no desire to try another pattern right now. Haha!! Honestly, I love that they are cheeky but don’t freaking move. I can chase after my kid without a care in the world. Also the instructions for this pattern are so well written, with lots of detail.

I was impressed with the Heiress top pattern. Lots of detail to help you make an amazing suit. I’ll size up next time and try that but I do love how the top fits. I’ll probably throw some powernet in there also, which I didn’t even think of when I was making it.

For both the top and bottom, I measured how far I wanted the ruffles and added a few inches to the length. I did 3″ but you can do more. The pieces were 1.5″ In depth. I also kinda rounded the edges on one side. You can see that in the picture. I just used scraps.

To ruffle them, I did 2 basting stitches at the top and gathered it. On the top, I pinned it in place when I was doing the final underbust stitch. And then zig zagged on. Same thing for the for the bottoms but I would definitely add on the ruffle when first putting the leg elastic on. I waited until I was doing that second pass through with the elastic. Both work though. But it was kinda a pain doing it on the second round.

I honestly feel like a mermaid in this suit! It turned out better than I even imagined. I think I’ll size up the top next time. I feel like I could easily have a Janet Jackson experience in it now. Now I just need to find a beach to lay on….and someone to watch the kid! Thanks for reading!

July 21, 2019June 15, 2020 by Jhermansen Categories: TricotTags: Hack, Swimwear, Tricot, tutorial Leave a comment