The Month of Free Patterns

During the month of September 2019 the team at Phee focused on free patterns. The only rules were that the pattern had to be free and utilize Phee Fabrics.

Here’s the thing, the team at Phee works extremely hard behind the scenes to bring everyone all the best of their work. Now, we know the quality at Phee is consistent, so you know what you’re going to get. Pattern designers work hard also and a lot of designers draft with their body shapes in mind and adjust the sizing based on their size block. There are very few designers that take multiple body shapes into account. One of the most challenging things for new and frustrating for experienced sewists is to adjust a pattern to their body. Dealing with an awkward fit and then comes in the concept of making a “muslin”. Typically muslin is a type of fabric but it can also be used to refer to the first one you make, a trial of sorts. Through multiple places I see people asking about using a different fabric as a “muslin”, a cheaper or different base. That will result in a different fit (be forewarned). Another thing that draws people in is FREE! The idea of getting something for free is appealing, it gives you a chance to try a pattern designer before purchasing other patterns from them. These are some of the free patterns our dedicated sewists have worked up for you.

Crystal is wearing the Halla Slim fit Dolman with the Poveglia Ribbing. She made a size 6/8 but says that it’s loose and should have made the size 2/4
Jessica is wearing the Harper Cardigan by Sinclair Patterns with the Light Gray Heathered Cozy French Terry.
Stephanie is wearing the Peg Legs from Pattern for Pirates in olive supplex
Mala is wearing the Magnolia Tee by Sonia Estep Designs in Dark Bisque Rayon Spandex. She graded from a size 22 to a size 26
Elizabeth is wearing a Durango Tank by Hey June in the 13 oz. Cherry Rayon Spandex
Addy is wearing the Verona dress by Little Lizard King in Orchid Rayon Spandex. This pattern is drafted for woven but was made in the same size. While slightly larger it will be good for layering a shirt and/or leggings underneath, as well as next spring/summer.
Joelle is wearing the Thankful top by George & Ginger. This is not available on their website and only can be found in the files of their facebook group.

The slouchy beanie was a free tutorial by Bernina
Due to the ease of the pattern and not wanting the shoulders way too wide, she made a size 8, graded to 10 waist and 6 hips. 

Removed an inch above bust and an inch above hem. Size 8 sleeve, removed .5” in the head and an inch at the short sleeve mark.
Nicole is wearing the Agnes Dress by Halla using the navy rayon spandex

If you have any other free patterns that you have used with Phee please email us at customer.service@pheefabrics.com to be added to this blog

Drama Dress + Rayon Spandex

I’m excited to tell you about this amazing Drama Dress made out of Phee’s Rayon Spandex!

On Thursday, I was trying to decide if I wanted to sew up a new dress for graduation on Saturday. I was eyeing the George + Ginger Facebook page, knowing that a new test was coming up for the updated version of the Drama Dress. Friday morning, I decided I was going to print off the pattern and sew it up during afternoon nap time. Thankfully, the Little took a nice long nap so I was able to finish this dress!

I looked in my fabric stash to see what I had in that would work. I always keep some Phee Fabric‘s Rayon Spandex on hand, and had a two yard cut of black that I knew would work great. I got to taping and cutting the pattern, then the pattern pieces, and started sewing!

I made the slimline version in a size 6 in the chest, graded to an 8 in the waist, hips, and down to the hemline. I am glad I went up to the 8 to make the bottom a little less form fitting. Those were the sizes I measured into, and once again I am glad I trusted the size chart!

I opted for the longer length. Partially because I don’t feel comfortable in anything too short these days and partially because I have a toddler. 🙂 I knew I wanted to do the tank option since summer is here. Plus, it’ll be a great layering piece with cardigans once fall comes! I chose to do the keyhole option to add a fun detail to the dress since I was choosing a plain black fabric.

The way the binding is attached was new to me. I am used to a single fold binding, but decided to follow to directions and try out this technique. The binding is sewn/serged on right sides together, folded under to the seam, and then folded back around the seam and topstitched on. I used my coverstitch machine for the topstitching and am happy with how it looks. The fabric is so smooth and my machine loves it, so that always helps!

The pattern finishes the neck and arms with bands. I almost attached bindings instead, but am glad I stuck with bands. Because the neckline is so high, I think the bands would be more comfortable. I did not topstitch my bands as I usually do, but that’s mainly because I ran out of time. Because the bands are my fitted on the neck and arms and the fabric is not too thin, I do not think topstitching is necessary. The bands stayed flat all day and I didn’t notice them at all!

Last but not least, I added the inseam pockets. If you’ve read any of my posts before, that should be no surprise! 🙂 The size, shape, and placement of these pockets are perfect! I have had some patterns where the inseam pockets are a bit awkward, but not these. I kept my phone in there all day with no issues.

This thicker Rayon Spandex from Phee was PERFECT for this dress! Because of the weight of the fabric, I did not feel the need to wear a tank or shorts underneath. A bonus for me on hot days!

I am really glad I jumped at the opportunity to sew this pattern up. This was my first George + Ginger pattern, and will not be my last. 🙂 The pattern updates should be on the website soon. I will come back and let you know when that happens!

What do you think of this dress? Which version will you sew up first? Sleeves or tank, keyhole, normal neckline, or the collar? Which color of Rayon Spandex is your favorite? Be sure to let me know in the comments!

Find the pattern here.
Find the fabric here.

As always, let me know if you have any questions or comments! Thanks for the opportunity to share my love of Phee’s Rayon Spandex!

Cheers!
Caitlin

*Some of the links above may be affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission from your purchase. There is no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!*

Support or Bust

How often do you hear fuller busted women complain about how uncomfortable, and unsupportive sports bras and bralettes are??? All the time right? Well add to that fuller figures and differently shaped women…. it’s difficult and expensive to try and find what you need. So we end up double bra-ing it.(yep that’s my new word) and being hot and uncomfortable. But no more! I decided to take matters into my own hands! Or my own sewing machine . I found a pattern I liked (for this I used the G&G lovesick bralette, p.s. it’s free). Then I looked for some great fabrics to pull it together…

I got this gorgeous kelly green tricot,a luscious feeling moisture wicking and antimicrobial fabric,(think big name sports garments) along with tan powernet from Phee Fabrics and went to work. So first the pattern calls for an outer layer and a lining. For the first one I made, I cut my tecsheen layer to sandwich in between the two…. didn’t work so well for me it was to thick and to many seams. I might also add I had to go down a size because it was just too big! (I’m a 40-42DDD in rtw, I made the largest size because that’s were my measurements fell).

It looked pretty but not so much when I put it on… So I went back and made a second one (thank goodness for extra fabric) this time using only the tecsheen as the liner as well as lining my straps with it. Just follow the directions as provided with the pattern… make sure to trim those seams to cut down on bulk!

Taking out the extra layer definitely gave me a better fit and look. Now when I walk or stretch I can be cute and supported. But who wants a cute top without matching bottoms??? Phee to the rescue again I took the scraps of the kelly green tricot (a bit too thin for leggings, but perfect for accents) black tecsheen, and black supplex to make the 5 out of 4 ninja pants to compete my outfit!

Yep, that’s my ripped tee… I’m ready for my flashdance! Now I’m off to chase little ones! I’ll leave the links below. TTFN!

http://www.pheefabrics.com

https://5outof4.com/

The lovesick bra is free in the files section of the pattern group on Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/George-Ginger-415698898625195/

Happy Sewing!

Sinclair Patterns “Danielle” and George + Ginger “Sincerely Sawyer”

I would like to share two tops that I made using Phee Fabric’s rayon spandex, and how I modified each pattern. I normally despise rayon spandex because a lot of it is hard to work with, but this was heavier weight and a pleasure to sew. It didn’t shift around while I was tracing my pattern or stretch out excessively while serging. This was such a relief!!!

The first pattern is the Sinclair Patterns Danielle top. It was love at first sight. It only has a long sleeved option, so I had to figure out how to make it short sleeved. Thankfully, it was much easier than I anticipated! Once the pattern is assembled, it has two notches that are very helpful; one in the shoulder area and another under the arm. All I did was draw a line through the underarm notch (to help the band attach easier) and a line that point and the other notch.

pattern_preview

Cut the fabric and assemble the pattern per the instructions and add bands to the arms instead of the cuffs.

pink pieces_preview

To get the band dimensions, measure the arm opening in between the seam allowances on both front and back pieces, and your width will be 80-85% of that, plus seam allowance. The height is up to you. I wanted my band to be an inch, so I made it 2.5 inches high.

pattern with ruler_preview

I really love the back detail on this pattern! I thought it would be intimidating, but the instructions are thorough, making it fairly simple. It went together very smoothly. I will use this pattern again!

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Next is the George + Ginger Sincerely Sawyer Sweater. The pattern is free with a code in their facebook group! I was going to make it strictly by the pattern, but I would probably feel like something is crawling on me if I put a bow on the shoulder. I’m way too jumpy for that! I still wanted to use this pattern, but I also didn’t want it to be a plain shirt, so I decided to use the sleeve cutouts to make it a cold shoulder top. I changed the construction of the sleeves, using a facing instead of a band so the hole would be bigger, and I did the neckband a little differently.

To get the front and back pattern pieces, tape the pattern together, cut it out, and fold the whole piece in half, matching the side seams. These will be your pattern pieces that are to be cut on the fold.

bodice_preview

For the sleeves, use the sleeve piece with the cutout. On another piece of paper, trace the V and an inch or so of the sleeve cap of each side. Using a clear ruler, trace 3/4-1 inch outside of the V, all the way down until the lines meet. This will be your facing piece.

sleeve pattern piece_preview

To sew the facing onto the sleeve, match the Vs right sides together and sew using 1/4 inch seam allowance. Clip the corner almost to the seam allowance, making sure not to clip through the stitching.

unfinished sleeve v_preview

Flip the facing to the wrong side and press. Stitch about 1/4 inch from the edge. Cut the extra fabric at the point off, if desired.

finished sleeve v_preview

Sew the front and back bodices together at the shoulder seams. To add the sleeves, pin them to the bodice. There will be an area of the armscye that doesn’t have any sleeve attached to it. Serge the whole thing, even the part without any sleeve. Press the seam toward the bodice. Topstitch using a stretch stitch. This will hide the serged edge on the opening. Sew the sleeves and side seams closed and add the neckband, sleeve cuffs, and bottom band. My neckband was hanging open (I always have this problem with wide neckbands) so I easily fixed that by pressing it down just over the neck seam and topstitched.

I love the way this top turned out! Most cold shoulder tops have rounded openings and the pointed ones on this one are unique. There is plenty of ease for a nice slouchy look.

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