Wiggle and Essential Tank Hack

Down here in Sunny Florida our month long Winter just ended and it was brutal, I am talking 50’s haha! Now that it is warm I have swim on the brain! So when I found out Wide Mesh was the promo this month I was so excited because I finally had the excuse to make myself a new coverup with the amazing, wide mesh I had been hoarding since September!

I have been dying to make the Wiggle Dress from Patterns for Pirates into a coverup. I did not necessarily want it so form fitting and thought it would mesh nicely with the Essential tank.

I am so happy with the results that I think I am going to make one from Rayon Spandex to wear everyday. Especially after all the new color options that Phee just listed. I only purchase my Rayon Spandex from Phee Fabrics because it is so high quality and it does not pill. Yes, that is what I said, it does not pill! It is seriously the best!

Not only was I extremely happy with the pattern but I loved the wide mesh so much I had to make another coverup and decided on a pair of Brassie Joggers. I was not disappointed with these either!

Materials: All from Phee Fabrics

Wiggle/ Essential Tank Hack

I already had both the Wiggle and Essential Tank patterns cut in my size, so after laying the pattern pieces on top of one another, I began by tracing the wiggle dress on the top portion and graded at the skirt to blend into the essential tank. I wanted the dress to be less form fitting through the waist and hips and more fitted on the top portion.

The front piece was much easier and straight forward because both fronts are cut on the fold. The back however was more difficult due to the fact that the back of the Wiggle is 2 mirror cut pieces and the Essential Tank is again cut on a fold. I wanted both my new pieces to be cut on a fold.

For this I concentrated on lining up 3 points: the grainlines, the centerback and the armpit. Once these 3 points were matched up I traced the cut on fold line and graded the skirts to blend together gradually becoming more fitted the higher up the waist.

After I had my two pattern pieces, it was sewn according to the original Wiggle pattern directions, except I used binding instead of elastic. I also used binding to finish off the sleeves to give it a more finished look. The skirt was left raw. As Monica explains in her blog the other day the binding can seem intimidating but the trick is to take your time and pin!

*If I was using this hack with any other fabric besides the wide mesh I would not have used binding and used the elastic and hemmed my sleeves and skirt.

Review of Heiress Bikini

This was my first time sewing the Heiress Bikini from SwimStyle and it is honestly one of the best swim patterns I have used. The techniques used leave you with the most professionally finished pieces and the fit just feels amazing! It is not a beginner pattern but has great instructions that easily guide you along.

I wanted to make this with the adjustable straps and used the new metal ring and slider set Phee is carrying. I was beyond blown away with the quality of this hardware and it was honestly the part people pointed out when they were shocked I made my own swimsuit. I highly recommend it!

I also used Powernet as the liner in my top because who can’t use a little extra support? If you don’t have this stuff on hand I also highly recommend it because you never know when it will come in handy!

Review of the Brassie Jogger as a Coverup

I am in a long term love affair with the Brassie Joggers from Greenstyle, because who isn’t! I decided to use the wide mesh and make a coverup version. This was one of those projects that turned out way better than I had originally envisioned. I receive compliments on them every time I wear them and even sold a pair the last time I wore them!

Thanks for taking a peek at my projects!

Let’s take it slooooowwww

Another holiday season has come and gone and now the post holiday lull…but it always seems short lived. We are always rushing – to school, work, the gym, grocery store. Rushing to start a project and then rushing to finish. After December and what felt like non-stop rushing, I vowed to try and be more present. I admit, it’s not easy. We live in a fast paced world and we are constantly “on.” So when I realized that Valentine’s was just around the corner, I started to panic! “I need to make something!” “And something for Dante!” “And finish the other 9 projects from last month!”

So much for the lull! But I remembered my decision to slow down. And now was the exact moment. I did want to sew, but did not want to just make something for the sake of crossing off my list. I wanted to create something that I would enjoy making and wearing, without rushing!

My first thought was that I wanted something that made me feel “sexy” – it is Valentine’s Day after all and while it does not have to be lingerie, I want something that makes me feel great! So off to Pinterest I went (or even better, to my amazing Pinspiration finding friend, Whitney!) As soon as I saw this picture I knew I had to recreate it – comfy, a bit polished and super cute! Added bonus for me was that it didn’t scream “VALENTINE’S DAY!”

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**Photo from Pinterest**

I also wanted comfort (I always want comfort in my clothes, lets be real!) – from fabric that felt good on my skin in a style I would enjoy wearing all the time. So of course I knew exactly the fabric, Phee Fabrics rayon spandex, easy to wear and washes up perfectly every time! There is a ton of rayon spandex out there, and I know I have written about it before, in my first blog post, but Phee’s is in a class all of its own! Let’s not forget all of the color options – right on trend, allowing me to build a wardrobe.

Full confession – I don’t really like raglans! GASP! BLASPHEMY! FOR SHAME! I’m not even really sure why I don’t like them, but I decided to try the Runway Raglan from Petite Stitchery & Co. since it has some insert detail at the shoulder and even a V shape color-block sleeve option (I will definitely try them out soon!) This is the Cherry Rayon Spandex with an inch added to the sleeves for my long arms.

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For the joggers I wanted to use a more slim fit pattern and the Brassie Joggers from Greenstyle Creations were perfect. I added 3 inch elastic in the cuffs by serging it in the round (pictures below). This way I could push them down or pull the cuff up a little and they would stay put and keep the shape like some RTW I have seen. And guys, this is the first time I have ever used my coveted Phee rayon spandex for bottoms and I have no idea why!?! These pants are the definition of comfort!

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For the cuff, I tried it first on my regular machine, but it is too structured to pass under the presser foot all the way for 3 inches. Instead, I created a center crease on the fabric by folding the long, wrong sides together of the cuff. I lined up one long edge of the elastic to the fold and turned the fabric and elastic into a tube, right sides of the fabric together and elastic wrapped around that. Next, I serged along the short end being sure to catch the elastic in the seam. Turn the fabric right side out encasing the elastic. The seam is a little bulky, but does not bother me when I am wearing them at all.

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Thinking about being present and taking my time, both of these projects took me about 3 hours just to sew (plus time to cut patterns and fabric). Usually I would have sewn them both up in half the amount of time, but I wanted to go slow and be present. I used Stay tape on the pocket, wash away hem tape on the shirt, top stitching on the neck band, pressing seams as I sewed and adding in the wide elastic for the cuffs.

And then a little fun with vinyl from a free font I found (I just stretched it to fit and look as close to the Pinspiration)

All of these details took the outfit from “sweats and a raglan” to “feelin’ fierce!”

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Note: This post contains affiliate links to products. I may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.

Phone Sized Pockets

GreenStyle Creations Brassie Joggers are a quick sew with a comfortable fit.  But they have a small problem- modern technology!  Most women will comment about clothing that “Pockets are life!”  Ready to wear women’s clothing rarely has pockets.  Or if they do, they are tiny little decorative pockets.  About the only RTW clothing item that consistently has pockets are denim jeans.  Real women need pockets!

Menswear has pockets, and I get it that men have to carry wallets, and most women carry purses.  But you can’t carry your purse around all day.  When I go for a walk, I take a house key and my phone (and my water bottle, I get thirsty!)  So I need pockets for my stuff.  And if you have little ones, pockets are a necessity.  “Mama, look at this pretty rock.  Hold it for me.”  Toy cars, snacks, rocks and sticks, you name it, Mama is expected to carry it in her pocket.

The real necessity of course, is your cell phone.  Modern technology has conditioned us to feel lost without our mini-computer.  And if you prefer a larger screen so you can see all those cute photos on your Facebook feed, forget it!  That phone isn’t going to fit in most pockets.  And adding a phone case makes it even more of a challenge to fit.

The Brassie Jogger pocket is a decent size, it just doesn’t feel deep enough to hold my phone securely.  Altering the pocket may sound challenging, but really, it’s an easy modification.  The opening at the top of pocket pieces is around six inches, to give you room to take your hand (and stuff) in and out of the pocket.  So however you alter the shape of the opening, you need to maintain that six inch opening.

I wanted the pocket opening to start about two inches higher than it does.  The purple pocket edge line shows the original shape.  I lined the pocket pattern piece up under the pants front to maintain the proper hip curve.  Then I took my measuring tape, held one end two inches up from the original spot and curved it up toward the waist.  I maintained the six inch opening for my hand, and traced my new pocket opening.  The new opening is shown in turquoise.

Since I also wanted a higher rise (I am tall, and low or mid-rise pants don’t fit well) I added an inch at the top of my pattern pieces.  The pattern currently has layers for low and mid-rise.  I think I’ve read that GreenStyle plans to update the pattern to add a higher rise, but I want to make this pattern now.  I could have used the slash and spread method to add an inch to the rise, but adding it at the top worked.  Bonus- it also made the pocket an inch deeper!

I also traced my new pocket curve onto my fabric and made a one inch wide pocket facing.  I prefer a facing to just turning the top edge under and stitching.  I think it adds crispness and stability to your pockets.  I lengthened the inseam of my shorts to six inches, as it’s a good length for me.  Other than these simple modifications, I simply followed the pattern directions.

Brassie pocket

When Phee Fabrics started carrying Polartec, I wanted to try some.  It is an interesting fabric, NOT the bulky polar fleece stuff you might be visualizing.  It’s a technical anti-microbial fabric with a moisture wicking “power grid”.

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The power grid design also makes it super easy to see your grainline and ensure that you are laying out your pattern pieces properly!
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The Polartec Powerdry fabric is lightweight and breathable, so I knew that I would be able to make cute and comfortable shorts out of it.  I hope I have enough of this fabric left to make some joggers or lounge pants, because it is comfortable!

If you’re interested, the top I am wearing is made of Phee Fabrics rayon/spandex using the P4P Essential Tank pattern with the curved hemline.

Brassie tank

So go ahead and add some pockets to your life! 🙂