Bras

Regaining My Sewing Power

Why does 2020 seem so long ago? Two years ago I was busy sanitizing groceries, making sourdough, homeschooling my child, etc. I always told myself that it was temporary, a couple weeks. I would get to sew “tomorrow” and tomorrow never came. The hobby that I enjoyed so much started to feel like another chore. It didn’t matter if I sewed something for myself, I was living in sweatpants. My sewing was consumed with masks, repairing masks, and the occasional make for my growing child. I was mentally exhausted. I didn’t realize that I was in ‘Groundhog Day’. Fast forward almost two years to the day and I decided that I was sick of feeling this way, I needed to think of something that would make me feel like myself, not something that I was sewing for someone else, just something for myself, that was NOT a mask.

I started with the Rain City Pattern Company Tight Tank with Heavy Rayon Spandex.

From there I moved on to a few new sports bras. I like the FREE Hyacinth Pattern from OhhhLulu. I used Tricot and Powernet and I added a band. Do you know what started to happen? Putting on something that was new, basic but new, gave me that quick boost of confidence that I forgot that I missed. It felt sooo good to wear something that wasn’t just that same pair of sweatpants. To be fair, I was alternating between two pairs of sweats.

Alas, the joyous spark was ignited. Then I started to think about what I could make that wasn’t so “casual”. At the same time Chalk & Notch released the Wren. I like that it is drafted for different cup sizes and has a shirt and dress within the same pattern. I used Rayon. One technique that I always use is French Seams . I love the finish of them. Yes, it takes longer but I do sew for longevity and it is worth it.

Next on my list is:

A pair of pants from Charm Patterns or Gertie’s Patreon with Supplex

This gorgeous top from True Bias. It’s called the Roscoe Blouse and includes a dress in the pattern also made by Jasmine Macias, made in Rayon

I hope this blog inspires some of you to also reignite the creativity. I didn’t realize how much was missing til I started it again. What is something on your list to make?

Melissa

March 2, 2022October 3, 2022 by Phee Fabrics Categories: Art Gallery, Fabric Types, Supplex, Tricot, WovensTags: art gallery fabrics, Bras, chalk and notch, charm patterns, French seams, Gertie, Powernet/Techsheen, rain city pattern, Rayon, Rayon Spandex, roscoe, Supplex, Techniques, tight tank, true bias, wren Leave a comment

My official mom uniform

When Melissa said that August was all about capsules, I was a bit overwhelmed. To be fair, I get overwhelmed easily. Here’s a little secret…..I’ve never sewn a capsule! I know, I know. How crazy is that?! However, what the heck do I make?! I’m a stay at home mom and don’t really dress nice very often. Then I realized that all moms need good basics that they can wear ALL. THE. TIME! Clothes don’t fit the same after having kids, so why not make our own? I live in leggings and tanks. And I always need something to keep me warm. So here’s the rundown.

Before I get into the patterns, here’s a little info on fabric. One thing I learned in my sewing journey, is to use quality fabric. Having good quality stuff, makes my work look better, last longer, and easier to make. Phee Fabrics has never let me down. The quality is always amazing! I love that the descriptions are accurate and the fabrics are sourced in the USA.

I bought the Clara pattern from Jalie months ago and finally made them. I have to say, I’m super happy with the fit. The only adjustments I had to make were height adjustments. I will take an extra inch next pair. I wore them to the gym the other day and they didn’t budge. I used black supplex and they feel like I spent a lot of money!!! Not to mention that I can dress them up or down. They can be worn with anything. Also this supplex is so lush, not to mention, durable. I live in leggings made with Phee’s supplex and this stuff lasts! Not to mention, it’s squatproof!

The staple tank from Greenstyle Creations is a pattern thats gotten lots of use. When I got this ribbing material, I knew I had to make one with it. This stuff is so soft, has amazing drape, and great recovery. I’m totally digging it!

The Harper cardigan from Sinclair Patterns Is a free pattern with a few options for length. I did the cropped length with black supplex. I can wear this with just about anything. I can honestly tell say that I will wear the hell out of this

Last but not least..:.The Jalie Julia has become a new favorite pattern of mine also. I love combining the top and the bra into one. I used Rayon Spandex, powernet, 3/8” picot elastic, bra strap elastic, rings and sliders. Oh and I used supplex for the band. I used picot instead of FOE and bra strap elastic instead of FOE for the straps. I cropped the length on this one.

First you’re going to go ahead and put your bra front and back together. I did French seams on this one. I omitted the darts so that I didn’t have to worry about that seam. It’s not that big of a difference. I wouldn’t omit it on the sports bra though. Attach the bottom band. Then we can put it together with the top.

Put the bra into the top so the wrong sides are together. You’ll notice the bra portion is a little smaller. I stretch it to fit, clip and baste. The other thing that needs to be changed is, that back point, where the two pieces of elastic meet….cut off about an inch so it’s a straight line and fold it over. That way you’ll have a clean edge and enough fabric for the picot to be attached and folded over.

Attach the picot like usual. Start with the front, chest edge. Flat side of the picot in line with the edge of the fabric. Attach with a zig zag. Then turn under and zig zag again. The elastic will be the same length in the front. When you get to the sides, you’ll want to add about an inch to the front, so that you can attach the rings. So attach the elastic to the one side, leaving an inch on the front and on the back. Then do the other side.

After than you’ll attach rings to each piece of elastic sticking up. Make your straps with the sliders. And then attach. Hem last and you’re good to go.

So there you have my idea of the perfect mom uniform. Let’s be honest, it’s the perfect capsule for anyone!! All 4 of these pieces will get lots of wear and they have me looking forward to cooler weather. Thanks for reading!

*Note: affiliate links may be used. By using these links, I gain a small portion at no added cost for you. I promise, it all goes to keeping my sewing habit going😊

August 11, 2019June 17, 2020 by Jhermansen Categories: Rayon SpandexTags: Activewear, Bras, capsule wardrobe, Hack, Jalie, Pants, Powernet/Techsheen, Rayon Spandex, ribbing, Sinclair, Supplex, Tanks, Techniques, tutorial, Women 2 Comments

Practice, practice, practice

Sometimes the smallest things are what challenges us most. Zippers, welt pockets, buttons….these things don’t bother me. In fact I enjoy the challenge. But Lace is something I struggle with making it look nice. For one,getting the right side up is a challenge in itself. It’s so delicate, and I’m so far from delicate it’s not even funny. Add that in with bra cup pieces that are all cut in mirrored images and my brain just goes to mush. So my goal is to force myself to do a lot of these projects to get practice.

My second challenge for this project is I completely lost my momentum for it. Well, let’s be honest, I lost momentum for everything. I cut the pattern out before things got super busy. Lately I want to sew, but then I realize that I’m rushing through and not paying attention and everything is going to crap. I just don’t have the brain power to think things through before I do them, and we all know that can lead to trouble.

I ordered all my supplies a while back, however when I went to start, I wasn’t happy with the color choices I bought. I searched my stash and found this hot pink tricot and knew that was it. I love how it looks paired with the gorgeous amethyst lace. At 6.25” wide, you can use it for a bunch of different things. If you’re not familiar with tricot, it’s a type of nylon spandex and It’s great for swim. It’s also antimicrobial and moisture wicking. BD63F8FD-5AC9-4CB4-B432-D1E5AAC25EBF

I found the Thyme Bodysuit pattern on Mood. I figured it would be great for practicing and it’s a free pattern. I did a lace overlay on the cups and a solid tricot bottom rather than lace. I did also line the cups with powernet and put elastic around the outer side edge. It was gaping really bad before. It’s kinda wrinkly now but better than it was. I just used 1/4” clear elastic, also from Phee. but I’d use swim elastic next time. The bottom part fits great….the top is still not great. I also added elastic under the cups on the front. I used 1/4” swim elastic. I also made the bottom one solid piece rather than putting snaps in because I will probably only wear this around the house. 7D9FF215-6A95-4A84-AD90-855BEB67C98B

If I were to make this a bathing suit, I’d line the whole thing, do elastic around the legs and work on making those cups more secure.

The pattern calls for French seams which I honestly forgot about doing, the entire first half of the project. French seams are really easy and they make the project look well finished.

I also decided to try the Tundra Bra Cage from Ohhh Lulu Lingerie. It’s a pretty quick project. If you need to practice making bra straps, this is the pattern for you! It gives the captive bra look that you can wear with any bra. All you need is some bra strap elastic, rings, and sliders.

All of my materials came from Phee Fabrics. I’ve never been disappointed with anything I’ve gotten from there. Everything is high quality for a great price. I made sports bras and clothes for me and my toddler last year and they still look new. F54CB6B5-AE35-48AC-8ECC-6B94FDC079D8

Practice makes perfect! If there’s a skill you’re looking to hone, sewing or not, practice will get you where you want to be with it. Find a fun project and practice, practice, practice! Thanks for reading!!

Heads up: this post contains affiliate links which do benefit me but it just supports my fabric addiction;)

April 14, 2019June 17, 2020 by Jhermansen Categories: TricotTags: Bodysuits, Bras Leave a comment

Journey into bra making

Being a stay at home mom and working in the fitness industry my whole adult life, the need for a “real bra” wasn’t there. Plus, have you seen the prices?! A nice bra is not in my budget! But every woman wants a nice bra at some point. When I heard Phee Fabrics was going to start selling bra kits, I knew I had to give it a go! 04FB1C2F-F34D-4363-A8EB-9D1A29827407

All my my fabric and notions came from Phee Fabrics. I wanted to be sure I was using high quality material because we all know that materials can make or break your project. Also I wanted to be sure that it would last with all the work I was putting into it. The bra kits come with all the basics that you need. You will need to buy lace , fabric, underwire casing , and underwires. For me the supply list was the most overwhelming part, and Phee Fabrics simplified that for me. The rest is open for customization. I’m not lying, I was so stressed over what colors to get, what would look good, etc. It’s really not bad once you get into it. I used the amethyst lace and the black denier tricot. . I also had to cut my wires to fit. Super easy! Just use snips or bolt cutters and go over with either plasti dip or clear nail polish.

I chose the Lansdowne Bra bra from Orange Lingerie. I had heard great things about their patterns and I can say they lived up to the hype. The instructions are so well written. The whole thing was a breeze! This was my first bra I’ve ever sewn aside from sports bras. If I can do this, anyone can!!!

The Lansdowne bra has an option for a “cleavage cookie”. Who doesn’t want a cleavage cookie?? Basically you make a pocket on the cup so that you can put your “cookie” in there if you want more of a boost. For the cookie, you just cut the cut and sew foam and serge the edges. I did two layers but you can do as many as you’d like. This isn’t part of the pattern but it’s on their blog.

Another great bit of info I got off the Orange Lingerie blog, is how to adjust your back band to fit whatever size hook you’re using. I did have to adjust that.

In the last month I have made 4 bras!! However, I only have 1 that fits. Sizing is probably the toughest part about bra making. If you know your size, then you have a good place to start. The last time I was sized, it still wasn’t the right fit. Also I’ve been leaning out this year and my measurements have changed so much. The thing about making your own bra is you customize the entire thing. Mine is all different sizes fused together to make something that fits me pretty well and is really comfy.

The fabrics are delicate and you will most likely have to do some seam ripping. One tip I picked up, use navy thread on black or cream on white so that it’s easier to see if you have to use Jack the Ripper. And not noticeable. This bra has TONS of imperfections!! Don’t look too closely. By the time I got to this final one, I was a little tired of seam ripping. Plus for some reason, I couldn’t get the cups to line up perfectly on this one. I seam ripped 3 times, and after that, I left it. I didn’t have this issue on any of the others I made so I think it’s because I needed pictures of this one. Hahaha!!

As far as time goes, it’s a pretty quick sew. You could easily make one in an afternoon. The second one I made, took me 2 hours! I’m hooked!! I want to make all the bras!

Here it is under a t shirt made with Phee’s rayon spandex. Honestly it’s the most comfortable “real bra” I’ve had in years. I’m so stinking proud of this bra, even with its imperfections.

With all these great blog posts this month, I hope y’all are inspired to go make your own. Thanks for reading!!

NOTE: There may be affiliate links that earn commission. But it all goes to my fabric addiction

March 31, 2019March 31, 2019 by Jhermansen Categories: UncategorizedTags: Bras Leave a comment

The Watson: Phee Lace Edition

With March being Bra month over at the Phee blog I am being pushed slightly out of my comfort zone. This prompt did play into my sewing goal for this year. This year I am attempting to minimize all ready to wear purchases (to maximize my fabric budget). The items that were on the ‘ok to buy’ list are:

Socks-because I like the athletic socks and they aren’t something I really feel I get satisfaction out of sewing.
Jeans-I wear cheap jeans that sometimes I have to get rid of at work if I spill on them.
Bras-because bras are so complicated and out of my league as a fairly new sewist right?

Wrong! Phee’s prompt is the perfect opportunity to check an item off of my RTW acceptable list (maybe for 2020, I won’t buy any). As I was searching out bras I decided to start easy. I have already done many sports bras and have fully kicked my previous Kiava sports bra addiction. Going through the options I wanted to make sure the pattern I chose had no underwire, no foam, and was beginner friendly. I finally settled on Cloth Habit’s Watson Bra.

For my first try at the pattern I did view A in a 38E based on my measurements. I used a bra kit that I had received through my mystery box from Phee (that I got that lovely waffle knit in for my Lille Tanks here). The other materials I had on hand from Phee left over from other projects including Taupe Lace which is probably my favorite lace ever. The fit was almost spot on, but I felt like the straps were going to fall down off my shoulders, the straps were too thin, and the length of the bodice (view A) wasn’t a perfect fit for my body as it preferred to roll up. I decided on my next Watson I would do view B to alleviate the rolling of the bodice and I would move the straps ‘in’ (towards the center of my back). I would keep the same size, 38E.

Strangely enough when I went to print out the different view of the back, view B actually already has the straps closer together. Even such, I decided to bring them inboard 1″ on each side. To do so I laid the piece pattern down on another piece of paper and traced the curve of the strap location. I then aligned my traced curve to extend the top edge back 1″. Tape in place, and blend curves so you have a steeper slop, but so that the strap elastic will come off of the back 1″ further in.

For my final bra, I used White Circular Knit, White Techsheen (from bra kit), and White and Black Lace for the band. For the cups I used Amethyst Lace and White Circular Knit. I used all Amethyst bra kit hardware (Plush Straps, 5/8″ Picot Elastic, and 3/8″ Picot Elastic.

Overall this bra is a great beginner friendly way to get your feet wet in the bra making world. I basted in this pattern more than in any other pattern every (I’ll be honest… I rarely ever baste when a pattern asks me to)-just to keep all of that lace where it supposed to be. The most difficult part is getting the cups aligned at the center, but don’t worry. The instructions are very well written and the included pictures are super helpful. The Watson will definitely stay on my pattern list for lounging bras. My one fall back on this pattern would be that you can see the seams through any light shirts. Next up will be an underwire and foam (probably the Harriet from Cloth Habit) to be a daily wearer to work. I will be on the search for a daily wearer bra that doesn’t show seams through my Rayon Spandex T-Shirts!

Thanks for reading along and be sure to stop by the Phee facebook page to show us your makes!

March 30, 2019August 18, 2022 by Phee Fabrics Categories: UncategorizedTags: Bras, clothing, Women Leave a comment

Making the Orange Lingerie Boylston in a 36J

If you have seen any of my sewing posts or makes I am well known having large natural breasts and with a full bust of 44.5″ to 47″ (depending on the support of the bra I am wearing at the time) and an under bust of 34.5″ I find it extremely hard to go bra shopping and find something that fits “OK”. I usually find myself purchasing a 38H or a 40H in the Cacique line through Lane Bryant and I feel socially acceptable meaning I am supported enough to not feel like a broken-down milk cow. In reality, I pop out of the top of a 38H when I bend over and the 40H is too big in the band so it shifts up in the back as well as the underwires fall to the side/back of my rib cage leaving uncomfortable rub spots.

I have been stalking the bra making forums and bra making pattern designers for almost a year now but there is A LOT of information out there! I have read articles and excerpts on how to draft a bra pattern based on measurements but with two small children and running the family commercial print company there is not a lot of time to wrap my head around a project like that. Then Melissa of Phee Fabrics says, “Hey, I am stocking bra kits, foam and underwires!” My first thought was … Shiiit, I’m really going to have to do this …

After many people with larger cup sizes recommended a designer I went ahead and messaged Orange Lingerie on Facebook. She was extremely helpful in pointing me to the right direction based on my measurements and what I needed in a bra: support and variety. At this point in my life the last PRETTY bra I was able to own was when I could squeeze into a 36F from Frederick’s of Hollywood! So I purchased the Orange Lingerie Boylston with a recommended size of 36J.

I was thinking I would just take you from pattern purchase to the grand finale but after having my hands on all of the different fabrics – some of which were entirely new to me in my over 25 years of sewing – I thought I would take you through this journey to perfecting MY bra in hopes you will join me!

From the top, clockwise, we have the poly-laminate foam, white Techsheen and white 40 denier Tricot. I could go on and on about these but the Phee website has already listed all the important info on the website. I will, however, point out that the foam is chlorine-safe! Meaning if you need/want custom swim cups this is PERFECT. If you are overwhelmed with all the notions, Phee Fabrics also has bra kits.

Before you really dive in to sewing your bra I would recommend sewing some test scraps with these fabrics and make notes, especially if you are new to them. By writing the stitch lengths, widths and tensions on the scraps, I will be able to toss these into my sewing bag for future reference.

The Boylston is not originally written for foam but it was was easy to convert using Cloth Habit’s series to make a foam cup bra from an existing pattern.

An extra item I used on this first round was double galloon lace as I followed the instructions from Orange Lingerie to make a lace upper cup based on an existing pattern. Something to remember that DOES NOT come in the bra kits are the underwires (refer to your pattern for the correct size and shape) and underwire casing – don’t ask me how I know *wink*. Another great thing is that you can return the underwires that don’t fit. If you forget these items, you will neeeed to place another Phee order – OH DARN! Here’s the inside view and as a first go-round with a real bra I am beyond pleased!

I have a few fit issues I need to work out. I feel the cup seams all meet at the right place over my nipples but once all of the breast tissue is in the cup I have a little extra over flow in the upper cup. I think I want to find a way to add more upper cup coverage and to see about what solutions there are to prevent slipping of the shoulder straps whether that is strap placement or addition of silicone. I know the slippage is due to having such developed neck/shoulder muscles from carrying so much breast weight over the years.

I am ecstatic that after one trial run I have a wearable muslin and the enthusiasm to try again (and again) with some adjustments. I already have dreams of all the pretty, custom-fitting bras I will have in my rotation instead of literally only 2 real, poor-fitting bras I wash repetitively. Here are my plans for a glorious pairing of Phee gorgeousness … the amethyst bra findings kit (don’t forget to add the amethyst underwire casing).

I hope you will join me as I continue on this crazy, scary, exciting bra making journey!!!

March 27, 2019June 18, 2020 by ocrwifelife Categories: Fabric TypesTags: boylston, Bras, Fabric Types, Foam cups, Lace Trim, orange lingerie, Powernet/Techsheen, support, Swimwear, underwire 5 Comments