Pattern Hack with Phee

I am back again with another pattern hack, this time is the Tammy from Annelaine Patterns! I decide to make W a cropped dance top and add a little something extra with the wrap around ties. For the bottoms I used the Deux Leggings from Lil Luxe Collection, I didn’t make any changes on those

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For this set I used Pinkalicious and Black Tricot from Phee Fabrics. I used tricot for a more of an athletic feel to her outfit, since she is only 5 they don’t dance too hard, but it is perfect for anything of the athletic nature, its moisture wicking, anti microbial, and has 4 way stretch. Tricot is a great choice for those older girls needing a cropped Tammy for dance!

Ok, on to hacking the Tammy! You are going to construct your Tammy bodice the same way from the tutorial, just skip cutting or attaching a skirt.

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We are now going to measure the bottom of the top.

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This is where we have to do some math. We are essentially making a band for the bottom of our top. If you know how to do this you can skip ahead, just for reference I make my band 5 inches wide so my finished band would be 2 inches wide.

The bottom of my top laying flat is 12 inches. So from there you want to double that measurement, which makes it 24 inches. From there we want to make the band slightly smaller than the bottom of our top so we will multiply that 24 by 85% or .85

24 * .85 = 20.4

We still need to add in the seam allowance. Which means a 1/4″ on each side of the band or a total of 1/2″

20.4 + .5 = 20.9

When I have an odd measurement like 20.9 I will just round up to 21 to make cutting my band easier. So for the band on my size 5 Tammy I will cut a 5″ by 21″.

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We will also cut our ties. How long the ties are, is up to you. I found that between 30 and 35 inches for W. Her waist is 22 inches and this allowed for them to be wrapped around and tied. You will need to cut 2 ties. So for me I cut 2 ties 5″ by 35″.

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Now we are going to sew our ties. You will fold long edges, right sides together and then sew (with a stretch stitch) the long edge and one of the short edges. I used contrasting thread for the purposes of this tutorial. You will end with one of the short ends left open.

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Turn your straps right side out.

Grab your bottom band and find the middle of the short end and mark with a clip/pin.

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Place your ties on the right side of your bottom band with the seams of the ties towards the middle mark you made on your band.

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Now bring the other short edge of your band and match up the edges, right sides together.

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Your ties should not go all the way to the bottom of the band, this is the seam allowance of where you will be attaching it to your bodice.

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Sew your band and ties, making them one piece. Then fold the band wrong sides together. You should now have a circle with the ties coming out of one end.DO9A2666

Now we are going to quarter your bottom band and your Tammy bodice. The side seams are quarter points so you don’t need to mark those if you don’t want to.

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Match your quarter points on your bodice and band, making sure the ties are in the back.

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Sew the band to the bodice stretching slightly between your quarter points.

All done! With your cropped tie Tammy from Annelaine Patterns!

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Making your own bike skort (or shorts)

Our family likes to bike. Now I’m not saying we’re out there in our matching biking outfits on the road every day, but when it’s nice, we like to get out and ride the rail-trails and we also take our bikes on vacation looking for new trails. If we’re just going for a short ride, I don’t usually bother with padded shorts, but for longer rides, they are nice to have. We do a 20 mile ride for farmland preservation every summer, and for that ride, you definitely need some extra padding.

If you have ever bought a pair of padded bike shorts, you know that they don’t come cheap. My last RTW bike skort cost me about $80, so now that I’m more comfortable sewing my own clothes, I wondered if I could make my own. I googled “how to make your own bike shorts,” thinking maybe someone had a pattern or tutorial already out there. However, I was super happy to find that I could BUY a replacement chamois (shammy) that you just sew right into your shorts! How cool is that?

At Aero Tech Designs, they have a nice selection of chamois pads that range in price from $9.99 to $29.99 and that offer different options/sizing, including women and youth pads. You can view all they offer here. I decided to try the Women’s Ventilated Fit and Trim Cycling Pad – Sew In Chamois. This was in the middle price-wise ($14.99), and had pretty good reviews.

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For my fabric, I wanted something lightweight and stretchy that still provided good coverage, so I used black nylon spandex tricot from Phee Fabrics. It has great weight and drape for the skirt part, and the shorts offer enough coverage under the skirt. It’s also moisture wicking and antimicrobial, so perfect for workout/athletic wear. Phee Fabrics offers this fabric in other amazing colors, but I went with plain black, as I have a lot of bright tops that I want to wear with my skort. I used the Shenanigans Skort pattern from 5 out of 4 Patterns.

The chamois comes with instructions for adding it to your shorts, but let’s walk through it together! If you are making your shorts, like I did, then I would recommend getting them assembled up until adding the waistband. You are going to need room to maneuver, and leaving the waistband off helps. You will need a ruler and a sewing machine that sews a zig zag stitch. You will also need straight pins. LOTS of straight pins.

First you will find the center front and back of the pad (mine was marked with notches), and then measure up 4″ from the center FRONT (the smaller part). Mark this spot on your chamois.

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Place the chamois into your shorts and match the spot you marked with the center intersection of your shorts (mine was at the side points of the gusset). Pin in place in the center of the pad, and then pin the sides, pulling the shorts material taut as you do so.

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Next, you want to pin the back of the chamois. Lay it inside the shorts, but then move it down about 1.5″ towards the front and pin the back center. The pad will be buckled up slightly. This will allow the pad to “bend” to match the crotch curve once sewn.

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Once you have the back pinned, lay the front of the pad into the shorts, pull taut, and pin the center front. You should now have 5 points pinned.

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You will now pin the rest of the pad to the shorts, pulling the fabric taut between each point. I used a lot of pins for this part! Once pinned, check to make sure that the pad is aligned (look at it from the outside…does it seem like there is an equal amount of pad on both sides of the seam/gusset?). If all looks good, you will start sewing the pad into the shorts using a zig zag stitch. You want about 12 stitches per inch. I left my length on the default (1.4 on my machine) and set the width to 6. I also used my walking foot for this. You will want to keep the fabric taut while stitching.

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Once you have stitched the pad into place, check and see that everything looks good. My machine is finicky, and didn’t want to sew the foam, so I had some skipped stitches. I went around again to make sure it was secure.

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And now you are done!

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Blog9Mine may not look as good as a professional pair, but since this is my first time trying, I’m happy with them! Also, when you put them on, it all smooths out, and they are actually really comfortable. And the best part? I made these for less than $30, which includes the pad and all the fabric to make my skort. #winning

You should now feel ready to tackle your own pair, and maybe I’ll see you on the trails!

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Phee0718_Bike4P.S. Don’t forget your helmet!!