Sew It Slow Sew Along: Schedule

Find all Sew It Slow posts here. If you’re following along on social media, search for the hashtag #PheeSlowSew. This is how you’ll find discount codes on fabric, see examples sewn up, and maybe even others working on their own projects for this sew along.

The sew along and contest runs 1/24 through 2/3, with the final garment photo(s) due 2/10/2020. Past Sew It Slow posts:

Patterns mentioned in this schedule include:

Day 1: Fri. 1/24

  • print and assemble pattern
  • wash fabric
  • muslin
  • resources for common fit adjustments

Day 2: Sat. 1/25

  • muslin fit adjustments
  • cut fabric

Techniques

  • block interfacing
  • underlining + glue basting
  • pressing

Day 3: Sun. 1/26

  • Betty: darts
  • Cabin: stay stitch neckline + weltless pocket
  • Cielo: darts
  • Fireweed: flounces
  • Floreat Sleeved/Sleeveless: inseam pockets
  • Geranium: shoulder seams + flutter sleeve (optional)
  • Hinterland: stay stitch neckline (and arms for sleeveless) + darts
  • Larkspur: shoulder seams + collar (optional)
  • Matilda: skirt pockets + skirt
  • Sedona: button wrap folds + button holes
  • Trevi: stay stitch neck and arms
  • Washi: darts

Techniques

  • stay stitching
  • darts
  • seam finishes
    • stitched + pinked
    • turn + stitch
    • single overlock
    • double overlock
    • French seam
    • corded seam
    • French piping
  • pockets
    • inseam pocket
    • weltless
    • patch pocket

Day 4: Mon. 1/27

  • Betty: stay stitch back neckline
  • Cabin: bust darts
  • Cielo: front pockets
  • Fireweed: should seams + princess seams
  • Floreat Sleeved/Sleeveless: waist tie
  • Geranium: attach bodice to lining
  • Hinterland: waist ties + bodice shoulder and side seams
  • Larkspur: facing
  • Matilda: bodice “princess” seams
  • Sedona: stay stitch neckline + darts + tie belt (optional)
  • Trevi: darts
  • Washi: pleat skirt

Techniques

  • grading seam allowances
  • v-necks and corners
  • understitch
  • edge stitch
  • pleats
  • cutting bias tape
  • facings

Day 5: Tue. 1/28

  • Betty: bodice and skirt side seams
  • Cabin: back pleat/darts
  • Cielo: back shoulder pieces
  • Fireweed: attach bodice and lining
  • Floreat Sleeved: back zipper
  • Floreat Sleeveless: shoulder seam
  • Geranium: bodice side seam
  • Hinterland: neck facing (bias)
  • Larkspur: zipper
  • Matilda: bodice pockets (optional)
  • Sedona: side seam pockets + front breast pockets (both optional)
  • Trevi: back placket
  • Washi: attach bodice front to skirt front

Techniques

  • zippers
    • invisible
    • centered
    • hand picked

Day 6: Wed. 1/29

  • Betty: attach bodice to skirt
  • Cabin: yoke
  • Cielo: shoulder sams
  • Fireweed: waistband (attach waistband to bodice for circle skirt)
  • Floreat Sleeved/Sleeveless: back seam
  • Geranium: skirt seams + gather/pleat skirt
  • Hinterland:
    • Sleeveless: armhole facing
    • Sleeves (set-in), hem/face sleeves
  • Larkspur: back seam
  • Matilda: yoke, bodice side seams
  • Sedona: back pleat (optional) + back yoke
  • Trevi: shoulder + side seams
  • Washi: shirring dress back

Techniques

  • shirring
  • gathering
  • sewing sleeves
    • set-in
    • flat

Day 7: Thu. 1/30

  • Betty: zipper
  • Cabin: shoulder seams + neckline bias facing/binding
  • Cielo: neckline (facing or bias)
  • Fireweed: skirt (attach skirt to waistband for gathered skirt)
  • Floreat Sleeved: shoulder seam
  • Floreat Sleeveless: facings
  • Geranium: attach bodice to skirt + secure lining
  • Hinterland: skirt inseam pockets + side seams
  • Larkspur: inseam pockets
  • Matilda: sleeve bands + waistband
  • Sedona: collar
  • Trevi: neckline
  • Washi: shoulder seams

Techniques

  • securing lining/facing

Day 8: Fri. 1/31

  • Betty: back seam
  • Cabin: bias facing/binding at sleeve hems and bottom hem
  • Cielo: sleeve (flat)
  • Fireweed: bodice to skirt
  • Floreat Sleeved/Sleeveless: sides seams
  • Geranium: Button holes
  • Hinterland: gather skirt; attach skirt for full placket only
  • Larkspur: sleeve (flat)
  • Matilda: placket
  • Sedona: side seams + sleeve (set-in)
  • Trevi: armholes
  • Washi: facing

Techniques

  • stitch in the ditch
  • buttons
    • flat
    • shank

Day 9: Sat. 2/1

  • Betty: facing and shoulder seams
  • Cabin: side seam
  • Cielo: side seam
  • Fireweed: zipper + back seam
  • Floreat Sleeved: facing
  • Floreat Sleeveless: back opening
  • Geranium: buttons
  • Hinterland: placket + button holes
  • Larkspur: side seams
  • Matilda: collar + hem
  • Sedona: sleeve placket + cuff
  • Trevi: hem
  • Washi: side seams

Techniques

  • hems
    • blind catch stitch
    • slip stitch
    • flat catch stitch
    • mitered
    • narrow

Day 10: Sun. 2/2

  • Betty: hem
  • Cabin: complete sleeve and hemline facings
  • Cielo: sleeve cuff
  • Fireweed: secure lining
  • Floreat Sleeved: sleeve (set-in)
  • Floreat Sleeveless: hem
  • Geranium: hem
  • Hinterland: attach skirt to bodice only placket, buttons
  • Larkspur: sleeve facing/hem
  • Matilda: button holes
  • Sedona: sleeve button tab (optional)
  • Trevi: button holes
  • Washi: sleeves + armhole bias facing

Techniques

  • additional videos as requested

Day 11: Mon. 2/3

  • Cielo: hem
  • Fireweed: hem
  • Floreat Sleeved: hem
  • Geranium: patch pockets (optional)
  • Hinterland: hem
  • Larkspur: hem
  • Matilda: buttons
  • Sedona: hem
  • Trevi: buttons
  • Washi: hem

Techniques

  • additional videos as requested

Final Garment Due: Mon. 2/10

Details on entering your garment for prizes and the rules can be found here.

Please leave a comment if you feel any technique videos are missing from the sew along schedule, as they can be added.

Woven Apparel Roundup

During the middle of October 2019 Phee Fabrics introduced Art Gallery Fabrics. As always, Phee strives for greatness and that doesn’t stop with introducing wovens. Currently there are three different bases being offered. 100% cotton woven, rayon and canvas. We will be introducing Art Gallery Cotton Jersey shortly. As well as adding to our collection. 

Using Art Gallery Cotton Woven and Rayon for clothing:

Using Graceful Bouquet in cotton to create The Washi Dress by Made By Rae

The Deer & Doe Magnolia Dress in Flowery Chant Subtle comes in a long or short version, slit or no slit, short or long sleeves. With a drafted hip measurement up to 60″.

The Luna Dress By Violette Field Threads using Powder Bloom and Femme Metale Boho

The Twig & Tale Trailblazer Vest was quilted with 2″ spacing using Dinosauria and Camouflage Pretense. Adding a reversible zipper will make this vest reversible since the lining is enclosed.

Using Delicate Balance Sienna, Delicate Balance Alabaster and Painted Prairie Anthesis to create The Violette Field Threads Pepper and the Little Lizard King Bellevue. This patterns will be featured in sew along hosted by Whitney Decker starting on December 2,2019 in the Phee Fabrics Sew Along Group on Facebook.

What do you want to make? We love seeing hard work and photos on Instagram and Facebook

Melissa

Woven Bag Patterns

During the middle of October 2019 Phee Fabrics introduced Art Gallery Fabrics. As always, Phee strives for greatness and that doesn’t stop with introducing wovens. Currently there are three different bases being offered. 100% cotton woven, rayon and canvas. We will be introducing Art Gallery Cotton Jersey shortly. As well as adding to our collection.

Using Art Gallery Cotton Woven and Canvas for bag making:

Sierra used Powder Bloom and Botanists Essay to create large Paladin Bag with Purse Hack by Sew Sweetness.

Foxes in Fall was used to create a medium Paladin Bag without the purse hack by Sew Sweetness

The ugly naked guy hobo by Sincerely, Jen Pattern Company was made with Evergreens Frozen

The Redwood Tote by Noodlehead was made in two different versions using Flowerfield Sunset and Night Talks.

Mystical Woods Solar was used in making a mini Denver backpack by Swoon Patterns.

These mini wallets are all made using Art Gallery Cotton Woven. With the pattern and fabrics all available at Phee. If you are interested in purchasing this mini wallet pattern, find it HERE

Happy Sewing and we can’t wait to see all your bags.

Melissa

Fitting My Washi Dress

When Phee Fabrics started stocking Art Gallery Fabrics in 100% premium cotton OEKO-TEX certified fabric, I knew it was time to search for a new pattern.  I have a couple of woven dress patterns that I like, (blogged here) but they are quite similar, and I wanted something with a little more detail to showcase the pretty fabric.

One of my sewing friends who also likes dresses, suggested a few pattern companies to me.  She forewarned me that the patterns were not inexpensive, but felt that they were worth the money.  I scrolled through a few companies, and kept coming back to the Made By Rae Washi Dress.  The simple pleats, neck detail, and of course- pockets, spoke to me.

Whenever I get a new pattern (especially for wovens), I like to compare it to a pattern that I know fits me well, to see how similar or different the fit is.  Since wovens don’t have any give, making sure that you’ve got a good fit is very important!  Right away I could tell that this pattern was drafted for a much smaller cup size, so I knew I was going to have to do some work to get a perfect fit.  I traced the bodice and taped the dart together, and held it against my body to see how far off the fit was.  The dart ended up a couple of inches above my bust apex, and the bodice didn’t cover the bottom of my bust.  Sigh!

Washi bust

Since this is kind of a common issue for me with woven patterns, it wasn’t exactly unexpected.  I needed some length between the armscye and the dart, so the simple fix was slashing the bodice front and adding in a 1.5″ wide strip of waxed paper.  I also added 1.5″ length to the pattern back.

Washi pattern adj

I cut out a bodice front and the upper back of the pattern in some cheap fabric and basted it together to check my fit.  I decided another half inch added to the front at the shoulder seam would give me that extra little bit I needed, and cut into my good fabric.  I took some time with my pattern layout, because every sewist knows that if you’re working with a floral fabric, it’s nearly impossible to avoid having flowers on your bust.  And I wanted an intentional placement versus an awkward one! 🙂

The pattern tutorial suggests using interfacing on the front around the U-notch to help keep the corners laying smoothly.  Tracing around the stitch line gave me the perfect shape to iron on to the bodice front.

Washi interfacing

It also calls for facings at the front and back neckline, and bias trim along the armscyes. But a finished bodice lining is just so much nicer, and would also make it easy to stitch a couple of lines 1/2″ apart across the back to make a casing for my elastic.  To make a bodice lining, cut another bodice front, and cut a bodice back by folding the pattern back 1/2″ below the bottom shirring line marking.  Sew the front and back linings together at the shoulder seams.  Sew the bodice front and dress back pieces together at the shoulder seams.  Place the lining over the dress, right sides together, and stitch around the neckline.  Clip the curves, turn right side out and press.

Then you will need to “burrito roll” the bodice to sew the armscyes.  If you’ve never done the “burrito roll” method, it’s almost magical how it works!  Basically you are rolling the garment up from one side, then flipping the opposite sides over and around (enclosing the rolled portion in the shoulder strap area) and stitching the armscye, then pulling it through.  There are plenty of video tutorials online if you are a visual learner.  Again you will clip the curves, turn the bodice right side out and press carefully.  Stitch the side seams and press.  Turn the bottom edge of the lining under 1/4″ and press.

You’re supposed to do 5 or 6 lines of shirring along the back, to give a nice fitted look.  Since shirring didn’t really sound fun, and wasn’t the look I was going for, I opted to use elastic in a casing.  Keeping your fabric smooth, stitch the bodice back lining to the dress back along the bottom two marked shirring lines.  This will give you the casing for the back elastic. To determine the proper length of elastic, measure your body around the bottom of the bodice.  Divide the measurement in two, and use 3/8″ wide cotton swimwear elastic, marked at that length.  Thread the elastic through, stitching it in place at both ends.  Then stitch the bodice front lining in place by stitching in the ditch along the front seam line.

The interior back bodice:

Washi int backThe interior front bodice:

Washi int front

Can you see why lining the bodice is worth the effort?  There is just something so satisfying about a garment that is as nicely finished on the inside as it is on the outside!  You can always feel proud about making a quality garment that will last!

Washi frontWashi back

I love my new dress!  And it has pockets!  It’s cool and comfortable, and can be layered under a jacket or cardigan for year round use.

Washi pocketsWashi down

Using a blind hem stitch on my sewing machine was the only way to do the hem.  It’s a nice deep hem, folded under an inch, zigzagged and pressed, then folded under another two inches.  It reminds me of the type of sewing my beloved grandmother used to do. ❤  High quality fabrics, quality finishes, and a nice deep hem.

Now that I’ve got my pattern perfected, I need to decide on some more Art Gallery Fabric so that I can make another dress!

As always, I only give my honest opinion.  After all, my post represents me! 🙂  Thank you for reading and sharing my love of sewing, patterns, fabric, and pattern hacking.❤