Pattern Hack: Adding a Lace Overlay to the Brooklyn Brief

There is nothing I love more than a versatile pattern! The more looks I can get from one great pattern the better so when a spark of inspiration ignited for a way to make my beloved Brooklyn Brief sewing pattern have any more design options I was at my sewing machine so fast I actually made myself dizzy.

I have shared a few of my favorite Brooklyn Briefs made from Phee circular knit in the past including this striking hot pink pair which I actually made three exact copies of because I love them so much. I find myself wanting something a little bit … more than the sporty look the Brooklyn gives. And “more” for me means lace, AAAALLLLL of the lace!

Turns out hacking an all lace back and even a lace over lay from the View A Brooklyn Brief pattern pieces is super easy! The tutorial for switching out the view A back for an all lace version is a Phee exclusive pattern add on you receive when you download the pattern so I am not going to be sharing that here but I do want to share how to do the front lace over lay. It is super quick and makes the panty look super sweet!

If you want to make your own, here is what you will need….

Since this is a two in one tutorial I wanted to break it down and include both video and written tutorial for adding the lace over lay, check out the video below and keep scrolling for the write up!

So here is what you do! Begin by cutting out a panty view a front piece out of your main fabric. Then take your view B center front piece and add a 1/4 inch seam allowance to the side you would normally cut on the fold. Then cut out two separate, mirrored lace pieces using your now adjusted view b center front piece, placing the x edge along the scalloped edge of your lace.

Place your two pieces on top of each other with right sides together and matching the scalloped edges. Use a small zig-zag stitch to sew down the side you added the seam allowance to 1/4 of an inch away from the edge. Press the seam open and top stitch if desired.

Place your view a panty front piece right side up on your work space and then place your lace piece right side up on top of that. Align the crotch curve, top and leg openings and pin in place.

Use a small zig-zag stitch to secure the lace to the panty front along the scalloped edges. Baste the remaining edges together using a long straight stitch and then finish your panty as normal! Easy as that!!

Happy Sewing, Nicki @ http://www.sewuprising.com


Pattern Hack: Adding a Zippered Pocket to a Legging Waistband

Pockets. Oh, pockets.

There great scandal of the lack of pockets in women’s apparel is still raging in the ready-to-wear world but how lucky are we as sewists to get to add pockets to literally anything we desire!? Even to leggings, a traditionally pocketless garment that is so lovely in so many other ways.

Today I wanted to share with you how I quickly, and easily add a zippered pocket to the back waist band of your very favorite legging pattern, perfect for keeping keys safe and secure when you are exercising (or shopping, I don’t judge!). The only thing besides your fabric and pattern you need for this hack is a 7″ zipper in a color of your choosing! Let’s get started!

I am using the Patterns for Pirates contoured waistband for the Peg Leg pattern in this tutorial but this technique would work for any legging pattern you may have.

Begin by finding the center point of your back waist band both vertically and horizontally. Mark that point with a washable marker (I still use crayola, it has never failed me!).

Draw a box 5 inches long and 1/2 inches tall around that center point with your washable marker and a point 1/4 of an inch in from each short edge in the middle of the box.

Using small fabric scissors cut a line straight down the middle of your box stopping at the 1/4 point marks. From those points, make small snips at an angle toward the corners of your box.

With your zipper open, place the right side of one zipper half against the cut slit and pin in place. Flip the zipper to place the edge of the other zipper side against the other edge of the slit and pin in place. The teeth of the zipper should be facing down and outwards.

Stitch the zipper to the waist band piece using a straight stitch down the middle of the zipper tape. Flip the zipper ends and pull to the wrong side of the waistband, tucking in the end tabs of the waistband as well. Press well (but be careful not to melt any of the zipper teeth).

Top stitch around the entire zipper 1/8 of an inch from the folded under edges. Be sure to secure stitches at beginning and the end.

Continue to assemble both your inner and outer waistbands as instructed in your pattern through attaching them together with a top seam.

Once joined, flip your waistbands so that both the inner and outer waistbands are facing outward and press the upper seam. Use your washable marker to draw parallel lines equal distance from the ends of your zipper, mine are 1 1/4 inches out for reference. using a stretch stitch on your sewing machine (a small zig-zag or the lightening stitch work)sew down those two parallel lines and finish your leggings as your pattern instructs!!

See how easy was that!

I am wearing my new olive supplex leggings (with zippered pocket!) with a winter white Rayon Spandex Madelyn Top, both fabrics are two of my favorites from Phee!

The Madelyn has a straight hem option included but to give it a sportier vibe I added a a multi length curved hem,another super quick hack you can find here!

GreenStyleCreations Sundance Jacket

What better way to round out this year of sewing firsts than with one of my most challenging makes-to-date… the GreenStyleCreations Sundance jacket.

I lead a very physically active life and this garment fits in perfectly, whether I’m pounding the pavement on a chilly morning or running errands around town. It is a very chic addition to my activewear wardrobe!
I used Polartec Powerstretch and supplex in peacock blue from Phee Fabrics. Both were fabulous fabrics to work with… high quality and very easy to sew.

 

I was incredibly intimidated to get started on this jacket. Primarily due to the zippers. They honestly are the bane of my sewing existence. I really, really had no interest in tackling THREE in one project.
But I did it! And quite successfully, I think.

 

I mean, they all work…
Another daunting factor was the number of pattern pieces to assemble. But I took the same approach as eating an elephant… one bite at a time. And, eventually, it all came together!
My favorite features are the overall fit and the yoke details. They are all so flattering! There is absolutely nothing frumpy about the fit of this activewear.

 

All-in-all, this wasn’t a difficult project. I would absolutely make another one. I would advise anyone to make a muslin for this jacket, simply to have a better understanding of how to execute each step.
My jacket isn’t perfect, but it’s a pretty darn good first attempt. And I will wear it all season long.

 

Grab all of the Polartec your heart desires while it’s on sale at Phee Fabrics. It is so soft and snuggly warm! There are weights and textures to meet all of your cold weather needs.
If you’ve made the Sundance, please share your pics in the comments below. I’d love to see your personal interpretation!

 

Happy Thanksgiving!

 

Phone Sized Pockets

GreenStyle Creations Brassie Joggers are a quick sew with a comfortable fit.  But they have a small problem- modern technology!  Most women will comment about clothing that “Pockets are life!”  Ready to wear women’s clothing rarely has pockets.  Or if they do, they are tiny little decorative pockets.  About the only RTW clothing item that consistently has pockets are denim jeans.  Real women need pockets!

Menswear has pockets, and I get it that men have to carry wallets, and most women carry purses.  But you can’t carry your purse around all day.  When I go for a walk, I take a house key and my phone (and my water bottle, I get thirsty!)  So I need pockets for my stuff.  And if you have little ones, pockets are a necessity.  “Mama, look at this pretty rock.  Hold it for me.”  Toy cars, snacks, rocks and sticks, you name it, Mama is expected to carry it in her pocket.

The real necessity of course, is your cell phone.  Modern technology has conditioned us to feel lost without our mini-computer.  And if you prefer a larger screen so you can see all those cute photos on your Facebook feed, forget it!  That phone isn’t going to fit in most pockets.  And adding a phone case makes it even more of a challenge to fit.

The Brassie Jogger pocket is a decent size, it just doesn’t feel deep enough to hold my phone securely.  Altering the pocket may sound challenging, but really, it’s an easy modification.  The opening at the top of pocket pieces is around six inches, to give you room to take your hand (and stuff) in and out of the pocket.  So however you alter the shape of the opening, you need to maintain that six inch opening.

I wanted the pocket opening to start about two inches higher than it does.  The purple pocket edge line shows the original shape.  I lined the pocket pattern piece up under the pants front to maintain the proper hip curve.  Then I took my measuring tape, held one end two inches up from the original spot and curved it up toward the waist.  I maintained the six inch opening for my hand, and traced my new pocket opening.  The new opening is shown in turquoise.

Since I also wanted a higher rise (I am tall, and low or mid-rise pants don’t fit well) I added an inch at the top of my pattern pieces.  The pattern currently has layers for low and mid-rise.  I think I’ve read that GreenStyle plans to update the pattern to add a higher rise, but I want to make this pattern now.  I could have used the slash and spread method to add an inch to the rise, but adding it at the top worked.  Bonus- it also made the pocket an inch deeper!

I also traced my new pocket curve onto my fabric and made a one inch wide pocket facing.  I prefer a facing to just turning the top edge under and stitching.  I think it adds crispness and stability to your pockets.  I lengthened the inseam of my shorts to six inches, as it’s a good length for me.  Other than these simple modifications, I simply followed the pattern directions.

Brassie pocket

When Phee Fabrics started carrying Polartec, I wanted to try some.  It is an interesting fabric, NOT the bulky polar fleece stuff you might be visualizing.  It’s a technical anti-microbial fabric with a moisture wicking “power grid”.

tech-diagram-power-dry.jpg

The power grid design also makes it super easy to see your grainline and ensure that you are laying out your pattern pieces properly!
power grain

The Polartec Powerdry fabric is lightweight and breathable, so I knew that I would be able to make cute and comfortable shorts out of it.  I hope I have enough of this fabric left to make some joggers or lounge pants, because it is comfortable!

If you’re interested, the top I am wearing is made of Phee Fabrics rayon/spandex using the P4P Essential Tank pattern with the curved hemline.

Brassie tank

So go ahead and add some pockets to your life! 🙂

Sew-With-Me: Evie La Luve Frankie Panties

Ah the granny panty. The comfy panty. The period panty. The sleeping panty.

Whatever you call them, most of us have them and we love them though we don’t want people to ever see them or know how much we love them. But they don’t have to be something that we hide, comfy panties can be just as pretty to look at as the rest of our lingerie drawer, especially for those of us that are able to sew our very own! My personal go to for comfy, every day panties is style five of Evie La Luve’s Frankie panties. This are a nice full coverage, a side waistband, and are super comfortable for both everyday and all of the lounging we usually associate with this “kind” of panties.

The Frankie panty pattern can be made classic, and simply like I am showing here or lacy and sexy. There are many different views included in the one pattern giving it great bang for your buck! I shared a few different lacy versions, all from Phee fabrics on SewUprising if you are interested in checking out more of what this pattern can do! Continue reading

Cold Shoulder Hack

Posted by Emily Merkel

I am here today showing you how to make a cold shoulder top out of a dolman top you may already have. I am using a super soft and drapey rayon spandex from Phee Fabrics, this is by far my favorite rayon spandex I have ever used. It is such a great feeling fabric with a good weight and drape, perfect for a top that looks a little dressy, but is still super comfy and easy for me to chase the 3 littles around in. I plan on making several more in lots of different colors, its such a great fabric to sew! I may or may not have slept in my top it is so comfy! This being a dolman top it is also super fast to sew, even with the few extra steps to make it a cold shoulder top, meaning it is a double winner in my house!DO9A0889.jpgI am using the Tamara Top by Annelaine, it is one of my most made patterns, it comes with so many options but I just had to make it even better with a simple cold shoulder hack It does need to have dolman sleeves for this method to work.

Ok, let’s get started on making our top into a cold shoulder. Lay your front and back bodice pieces right sides together.DO9A0862

Now we will make the marks on our sleeves. I wanted my hole in the shoulder to start 1.5″ from the neckline, so the first mark I made was 1.75″ from the neckline. I added .25″ to account for the seam allowance of the neckband.

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I then measured from the end of the sleeve 2″ in. This is where the hole will end. I used 2″ since I knew that my hem was going to be 1″. Repeat on the other sleeveDO9A0865

We will now go to the sewing machine and sew just from the neckline to our first mark and the from the second mark to the edge of the sleeve. Leave the middle between the 2 marks unsewn, this is what is going to make our hole for the cold shoulder. Remember to use a stretch stitch here! It can be a zig zag or lightening bolt stitch. Do this to both sleeves.DO9A0866-Edit

Now we want to press the seam down. Also press you seam allowance (mine is 1/4″) down where you left it unsewn, we will topstitch that down to complete our cold shoulder hole. Repeat on all sides.

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It should now look like this.DO9A0870DO9A0869

Now turn over so right side is facing up and topstitch your cold shoulder hole catching that portion you pressed under. I used a coverstitch, but a sewing maching using a stretch stitch or double needle would work great too!

Tip: I like to use tissue paper when I am sewing hems that are close to the fabric edge to help make sure that the sewing machine doesn’t eat my fabric. After you are done sewing you can just tear away the tissue paper.DO9A0872-Edit

You can now finish you top like normal, with the side seams, neckband and hemming! All done and you have this fun cold shoulder top out of any dolman sleeved top!

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