We are rounding up some of the Phee Fabrics Halloween/ Fall makes. The following sewing makes have all used the Spooky ‘N Sweet Collection designed by Art Gallery Fabrics and sold at Phee Fabrics.
Don’t we all love those comparison blogs? A chance to see a couple different patterns worked up in the same fabric base. So, Amie, Jessica and Melissa sewed up different women’s shorts patterns all in Stretch Twill.
To read about finishing techniques or watch finishing videos, click the buttons below
Comments: If you are nervous about sewing wovens or are a beginner this is a great pattern to start with. The pockets aren’t mandatory and the Phee Fabrics blogs and YouTube channel has amazing techniques to help along the way, like French Seams!
Comments: I love that this pattern had a lining sewn into it. In the construction steps, it mentions that 2 sets of mirrored front pieces are needed, 2 main, and 2 lining (4 total). Since this pattern is in Misses sizes, it is not very inclusive. The print guide, cut chart, and instructions are limited.
Fit: I was concerned that these would be too tight, and not fit with them being “slim fit so I reduced the seam allowance by 1/8″. This has made them more of a relaxed fit. The pattern calls for 1″ elastic but I used 1.5″. For the next pair I’m going to attempt making the inseam shorter.
Comments: I love this designer’s patterns. There is no cut layout, all pages are printed landscape, make sure to check your settings in case you need to change them. The pattern does call for trim, which I left off because of them being dual purpose. The problem is that I kind of had to wing it because there are no instructions on how to sew these shorts up with no trim. I want to try the relaxed version next time, and see how that compares to the slim fit version.
Pattern Options: High-waisted pants and shorts sewing pattern with slash pockets and a pleated or gathered front. The front waist is flat while the back waist is elasticized. Choose from three lengths: long, cropped, or shorts
Options Made: High waisted shorts with pleats and slash pockets
Comments: Easy to follow instructions. Quick sew. These shorts are low rise but it is easy to adjust the rise if you wanted a higher rise. You can also do the ruffle hack, like the ones pictured by following this blog.
Comments: I found that these have a mid rise fit. Basting your back pockets on first with help achieve the desired placement. The instructions include a faux fly but I did mine the way I’m used to.What I did was with right sides together, sew around the faux fly using a 1/4in seam allowance until you get to the curved crotch, then switch to 1/2in seam allowance. Clip all of the curves, then turn right side out. Fold fly over the front of the shorts, then top stitch the fly down and around the fly like shown in pattern. That’s it!
Phee Fabrics is finding ways to use up your Art Gallery scraps. This blog is focusing on Car Seat Neck Pads! Plus you have a chance to win a Scrap Pack!
Over time the neck pads are on the car seat have become dingy plus they’re boring. So why not redo them? These only cushion the straps against the collarbone and do not reduce the safety of the car seat. These are the same size and thickness of the original ones.
Construct your shorties based on the pattern, including hemming, up to the point that you would add the waistband, then put them aside. Important: typically you would not start here but I do this to avoid stitching my bottom flounce piece into the hem.
Pencil Skirt
To achieve the added flair to the pencil skirt:
I drafted three 4″ flounces to go across the back of the skirt. If you have not done a flounce before, think of it like a little circle skirt but you cut a line through one side of it. Drafting flounces takes a little math and I will explain it in the next paragraph.
After cutting the flounces, stitch them down using a stretch stitch and following the chalk lines. The top of the flounces should be “upside down”
After the flounces are stitched down, serge the skirt together. Important: you want the flounces to go slightly into the side seem so they will look like part of the back of the skirt.
Flounce Drafting
Figure out the point that you want the flounces to start on the garment and measure. Side seam to side seam horizontally is what I chose.
Repeat this step 3 times and mark your lines on the back skirt panel using a ruler and chalk pen.
How wide do you want the flounce? Once you know that, divide that number by 3.14. This will give you the radius needed for a half circle. However, for a full circle (which is what you need) you must divide the result by 2.
Use this number to draft the first circle line.
Measure from the point of your first circle cut down (the first circle line is 4″ down to make the flounce 4″ or what width you choose) to the length that you would like, as mentioned above I measured mine to be 4 inches and don’t hem the Tricot because it doesn’t fray.
Example, my target length was 20″. This is how I calculated the radius for a full circle.
And just like that you have your flounces!
Finishing Up
Your shorts and skirt should have the side seams are constructed and hemmed at this point.
Now you can add the waistband. You will only be using one waistband because the shorts and the skirt will be attached.
To add the waistband, you will want to measure it off in quarters and put pins at each quarter point. You will do the same for your skirt. After quartering take your shorties and skirt and clip or pin them all together stretching the waistband (not the skirt or shorties) just enough to make it line up.
When I saw the Sonia Estep Bahama Shorts made in AGF Cool Foliage Denim I knew I had to have them and quickly purchased the pattern. The pattern is either for shorts or pants and I figured shorts would be the best starting point for fitting and it’s 105 degrees out right now.
There is a lot of room for your own interpretation in this pattern so I’m hoping to clear some of it up and help alleviate some of the stress of sewing a pair of woven shorts.
These tips are useful for all woven patterns, including this one.
Pockets
If your pattern contains a piece for a square or rectangular piece, I find it easier to measure the pattern piece then cut the woven fabric on your cutting mat to ensure a straight cut.
Fold and press the seam allowance
Left: exposed cut pockets Right: enclosed pockets to eliminate fraying
Open up and snip the corners to reduce bulk
Snipped corners to reduce bulk
Fold the cut edge to meet the pressed line, press, fold again and press. This will ensure that you won’t have internally frayed pocket
The back flaps tend to use 2 layers of fabric so why not have so fun with it and use a scrap print for the inside .
Make sure the right sides are together, stitch around leaving a small pocket for flipping.
Snip corners then flip so the wrong sides are together and press.
Pocket Positioning
With the Bahama Shorts, this is where it gets tricky because depending on the waistband that you choose will decide on the rise. Just following the pattern could leave your pockets not positioned in the best place so I would suggest the you decide on the waist option before basting the pockets.
Baste the pattern together now.
Because you can use any elastic that you have, I chose 1.5″ because I had it on hand. After folding and pressing the casing, this would have left the waistband stitching into the front pockets.
I found that using 3/4″ elastic was the best option to create your desired rise. Once you get the ideal rise (do not add elastic yet) you can then add the pockets to the most flattering positions.
After that is done I always assemble wovens with French seams.
Also featuring a key fob. You can find the pattern HERE
Phee Fabrics is finding ways to use up your Art Gallery scraps. This blog is focusing on Masks! Since March there have been so many companies that have released mask patterns. Different sizes and styles are overwhelming and we are going to try to narrow down the options to some of our favorites. If you want to read more about the reason we choose AGF for masks
A Serger or Sewing Machine. Depending on chosen pattern
Thread
Free Patterns
DIBY Fitted Face Mask. The pattern has sizes child through adult large
Eunoia has a template for a fitted mask that is used to be worn over a N95 mask but does require elastic.
Sweet Red Poppy has fitted, pleated and 3D mask patterns. The patterns are child through adult sizes for both versions but do require nose/ floral wire and without rounded or siliconed tips they will wear through the mask over a period of washing and wearing. Uses ties or elastic.
Twig + Tale has fitted and pleated mask versions. Ties or elastic. Sizing for children and adults
Deconess has a pleated mask pattern that can be made with ties or elastic and only has one size for child and one for adult
CDC has a pleated mask pattern with ties or elastic.
Olson has a fitted mask pattern that can use elastic, hair ties or fabric ties
Elderberry Blossoms has child through adult sizes. Some designs are made for knit but we love the woven ones.
FreeSewing.org has a fitted mask pattern. Seam allowances are not included so adding them to the templates can expand the sizes from child to adult large.
See Kate Sew has fitted, pleated and 3D mask patterns. The patterns are child through adult sizes for both versions but do require nose/ floral wire and without rounded or siliconed tips they will wear through the mask over a period of washing and wearing. Uses ties or elastic. Also, there seems to be a size difference when you download the pattern from the blog and when you download it from their Facebook group files. For the accurate size, join the Facebook group and download it from the files. This has been the 3D pattern that I like the best. Join their FB Group.
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