The Sly Little Fox and How She Got Pockets

I made the mistake of scrolling through my patterns and letting my 3 1/2-year-old daughter see the Stitch Upon a Time Riding Hood. She typically doesn’t request items for herself but immediately claimed this pattern as her own and decided she neeeeeded one. I’ve always wanted to make a cute animal poncho for her so between the Cozy French Terry from Phee Fabrics and the Riding Hood poncho. I decided it would be the perfect opportunity to ease into the fall with a piece of warm outerwear.

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Here in beautiful Northern California it may be Fall with a slight crispness in the morning air but during the day it’s still over 80°. I really feel that this foxy little hood is going to be perfect to toss on in the mornings while loading in the car seat and quick to toss in the backpack after it starts to warm up.

I already had my heart set on the Riding Hood but also wanted a fox theme. I searched for the perfect pattern for the ears and tail since I lack creativity when it comes to doing things freehand. I ultimately decided on the Twig and Tail Animal Hooded Scarf and modified the Stitch Upon A Time hood to accommodate ears. For the white I used the Phee Fabrics White Rayon Spandex. I made the tail removable for ease of using the potty.

I thought I had hit the jackpot when it all pulled together so I rushed in my excitement to have Z try it on!!!

“Does it have pockets?”

“No.”

“I can take this off now.”

… the sound of dreams deflating …

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This exchange left me debating. Do I add pockets, lose this battle and risk finding rocks, Legos, acorns or who knows what in my dryer? Or do I win this battle by adding pockets and have my girl love it? Yep, there was no way out of adding pockets!!!

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Since this Poveglia COZY French Terry from Phee Fabrics is already so soft and warm I opted for only one layer and hemmed around the bottom making pockets per the pattern instructions, not really an option so I had to improvise! I went ahead with the pocket facing and used my Cricut to cut a stencil for a sweet little heart pocket adding a girlie touch.

Once those magic pockets were added it was LOVE!!! Snaps make this easy on & off for her small hands and the ease of getting in & out of the car seat so much nicer on my back!

I think this is a winner!!!

Summer is for Fun!

Summer is in full swing here in Far Northern California with all sorts of craziness between hail storms, mountain snow, earthquakes and sizzling temps of over 100 degrees! Add to the daily fun of school being out – what working parent doesn’t love trying to figure out ways to keep the monsters occupied and active when it’s hotter than the surface of the sun?

My original plan was to get pictures of this Mairin from Sew a Little Seam while out on the boat this past weekend but with so much snow runoff from the late, heavy Spring snowfalls that water was COLD!!! No one was going in and I know better than to bring out the suits and expect the kids to stay out of the water.

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I made sure to grab this inflatable pool from Costco while they had them in stock because around here, once the pools are gone, they aren’t restocked so if you miss out, you are S.O.L. and in for a long, hot season. It made for a great time in the backyard while the husband cooked a tri-tip and I snapped some pictures to show off the solid tricot and Insane in the Membrane Nylon spandex from Phee Fabrics.

It took me a bit to decide which colors to use. The Tricot, which is perfect for swimwear and so amazing to work with, comes in a bunch of awesome colors and with half-yard cut options available it is easy to have a nice on-hand selection of beautiful coordinates for whatever may come up! The Nylon-Spandex “Insane in the Membrane” is a fun, wild, black-and-white print that can really be paired with anything but for this suit, I chose the Cerise and Neon Coral to add lots of brightness to match my little’s ones sparkling personality.

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This is the second Mairin I’ve made for little missy and I had forgotten how “fun” the teeny, tiny pieces of elastic were to sew in for the arm and leg openings. It did require a few deep breaths and taking a break from my machines but those are really the only parts I found of the suit that was a touch stressful for me. Even the gathered ruffles are easy with the Tricot.

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Despite the elastic giving me a hard time, I feel fortunate to be able to provide my daughter with a perfectly fitting suit as I find that RTW suits have a tendency to sag in the booty/crotch area and are not comfortable for her to be able to play like she wants! The quality of the fabric really compliments its beauty with the way it holds up to abrasion and chlorine making the time and effort invested into a hand-crafted suit worthwhile.

I hope you have a wonderful Summer filled with lots of laughs and memories made. Kiddos just grow way too fast! Thank you for reading! ❤

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Pattern: Sew a Little Seam – Children’s Mairin Swimsuit PDF Pattern

Fabrics: Tricot in Cerise from Phee Fabrics, Tricot in Neon Coral from Phee Fabrics, Nylon Spandex in “Insane in the Membrane”Swim Lining in Bisque

This post includes affiliate links that might generate some income that would be wisely spent on … more fabric.

The Twill Skirt That Could

Do you ever just jump into a pattern because it is a new designer (to you), pushes you to use a fabric or technique that is long-lost in using so many knits (ahem, wovens!) and you think it might just replace a favorite wardrobe item that might be worn out or “grown out of”?

I had this favorite brownish khaki-type skirt from Old Navy that I LOVED. This thing could be dressed up and worn out to drink and dance or dressed down to wear with flip-flops and a tee for a summer BBQ with friends and family. It looked like it should be a mini-skirt but sat low on the hips to provide plenty of coverage to not over-expose while acting care-free.

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Kids happened. My favorite staple no longer fit the way I loved and let’s be honest, putting kids in and out of their car seats is just not a good idea with a shorter skirt. I have spent years wanting another fun skirt, with pockets, that is structured enough to fit like a denim or khaki skirt but still moves like a knit for daily like chasing two littles.

Enter the Sew a Little Seam Linden. I picked this pattern because it had a very inclusive size range and comes with both shorts and skirt pattern pieces and LOTS of options from structured knit to Chino to jean skirt details. With a waist and hip measurement both of 48″ can be really difficult because I am often right at the top, if not off of, many size charts.

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I haven’t made a woven anything in forever so I was hesitant but the newly stocked stretch twill from Phee Fabrics offers the beautiful structure of a woven with the forgiveness of a knit. I picked the charcoal as the coral is a little bright for everyday and the white, well, I have kids and animals.

For my first round with the Linden I stripped the options to an elastic waist, no drawstring, sloped pockets and the shortest length. PSA – Don’t hold the pattern pieces up to you to decide if that is the right length for your needs. with 5/8″ x 2 hemming allowance it got short reeeeal fast!

I am glad I have made items with pockets because I feel like it could have had a few more notches to help align the pocket pouches with the front pieces but once that was situated the rest of the assembly went quick! I am looking forward to seeing how this fast-drying woven with the perfect touch of stretch will perform as a swim-cover skirt for playing on my stand-up paddle board.

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After Linden round one I can see this as a pattern I will make again and spent the time to explore the more intimate details like welt or decorative jean-style pockets or belt loops for a polished look with a few size adjustments and the next length!

Pattern: Sew a Little Seam Women’s Linden Shorts & Skirt PDF Pattern

Skirt: Stretch Twill in Charcoal

Shirt: GreenStyle Creations Green Tee in Orchid Rayon Spandex from Phee Fabrics

 

Bras: When a RTW “Good Enough” Fit isn’t Anymore

If you have seen any of my sewing posts or makes I am well known having large natural breasts and with a full bust of 44.5″ to 47″ (depending on the support of the bra I am wearing at the time) and an under bust of 34.5″ I find it extremely hard to go bra shopping and find something that fits “OK”. I usually find myself purchasing a 38H or a 40H in the Cacique line through Lane Bryant and I feel socially acceptable meaning I am supported enough to not feel like a broken-down milk cow. In reality, I pop out of the top of a 38H when I bend over and the 40H is too big in the band so it shifts up in the back as well as the underwires fall to the side/back of my rib cage leaving uncomfortable rub spots.

I have been stalking the bra making forums and bra making pattern designers for almost a year now but there is A LOT of information out there! I have read articles and excerpts on how to draft a bra pattern based on measurements but with 2 small children and running the family commercial print company there is not a lot of time to wrap my head around a project like that. Then Melissa of Phee Fabrics says, “Hey, I am stocking bra kits, foam and underwires!” My first thought was … Shiiit, I’m really going to have to do this …

After many people with larger cup sizes recommended a designer I went ahead and messaged Orange Lingerie on Facebook. She was extremely helpful in pointing me to the right direction based on my measurements and what I needed in a bra: support and variety. At this point in my life the last PRETTY bra I was able to own was when I could squeeze into a 36F from Frederick’s of Hollywood! So I purchased the Orange Lingerie Boylston with a recommended size of 36J.

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I was thinking I would just take you from pattern purchase to the grand finale but after having my hands on all of the different fabrics – some of which were entirely new to me in my over 25 years of sewing – I thought I would take you through this journey to perfecting MY bra in hopes you will join me!

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From the top, clockwise, we have the poly-laminate foam, white Techsheen and white 40 denier Tricot. I could go on and on about these but the Phee website has already listed all the important info on the website. I will, however, point out that the foam is chlorine-safe! Meaning if you need/want custom swim cups this is PERFECT!

Before you really dive in to sewing your bra I would recommend sewing some test scraps with these fabrics and make notes, especially if you are new to them. By writing the stitch lengths, widths and tensions on the scraps, I will be able to toss these into my sewing bag for future reference.

The Boylston is not originally written for foam but it was was easy to convert using Cloth Habit’s series to make a foam cup bra from an existing pattern.

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An extra item I used on this first round was double galloon lace as I followed the instructions from Orange Lingerie to make a lace upper cup based on an existing pattern. Something to remember that DOES NOT come in the bra kits are the underwires (refer to your pattern for the correct size and shape) and underwire casing – don’t ask me how I know *wink*. If you forget these items, you will neeeed to place another Phee order – OH DARN! Here’s the inside view and as a first go-round with a real bra I am beyond pleased!

I have a few fit issues I need to work out. I feel the cup seams all meet at the right place over my nipples but once all of the breast tissue is in the cup I have a little extra over flow in the upper cup. I think I want to find a way to add more upper cup coverage and to see about what solutions there are to prevent slipping of the shoulder straps whether that is strap placement or addition of silicone. I know the slippage is due to having such developed neck/shoulder muscles from carrying so much breast weight over the years.

I am ecstatic that after one trial run I have a wearable muslin and the enthusiasm to try again (and again) with some adjustments. I already have dreams of all the pretty, custom-fitting bras I will have in my rotation instead of literally only 2 real, poor-fitting bras I wash repetitively. Here are my plans for a glorious pairing of Phee gorgeousness … the amethyst bra findings kit (don’t forget to add the amethyst underwire casing) and coral power net!BoylstonRd-11

I hope you will join me as I continue on this crazy, scary, exciting bra making journey!!!

Please note affiliate links may be used where I earn commissions. You know it is reinvested in ALL fabrics! :o)

Making the Orange Lingerie Boylston in a 36J

If you have seen any of my sewing posts or makes I am well known having large natural breasts and with a full bust of 44.5″ to 47″ (depending on the support of the bra I am wearing at the time) and an under bust of 34.5″ I find it extremely hard to go bra shopping and find something that fits “OK”. I usually find myself purchasing a 38H or a 40H in the Cacique line through Lane Bryant and I feel socially acceptable meaning I am supported enough to not feel like a broken-down milk cow. In reality, I pop out of the top of a 38H when I bend over and the 40H is too big in the band so it shifts up in the back as well as the underwires fall to the side/back of my rib cage leaving uncomfortable rub spots.

I have been stalking the bra making forums and bra making pattern designers for almost a year now but there is A LOT of information out there! I have read articles and excerpts on how to draft a bra pattern based on measurements but with two small children and running the family commercial print company there is not a lot of time to wrap my head around a project like that. Then Melissa of Phee Fabrics says, “Hey, I am stocking bra kits, foam and underwires!” My first thought was … Shiiit, I’m really going to have to do this …

After many people with larger cup sizes recommended a designer I went ahead and messaged Orange Lingerie on Facebook. She was extremely helpful in pointing me to the right direction based on my measurements and what I needed in a bra: support and variety. At this point in my life the last PRETTY bra I was able to own was when I could squeeze into a 36F from Frederick’s of Hollywood! So I purchased the Orange Lingerie Boylston with a recommended size of 36J.

BoylstonRd-1

I was thinking I would just take you from pattern purchase to the grand finale but after having my hands on all of the different fabrics – some of which were entirely new to me in my over 25 years of sewing – I thought I would take you through this journey to perfecting MY bra in hopes you will join me!

BoylstonRd-6

From the top, clockwise, we have the poly-laminate foam, white Techsheen and white 40 denier Tricot. I could go on and on about these but the Phee website has already listed all the important info on the website. I will, however, point out that the foam is chlorine-safe! Meaning if you need/want custom swim cups this is PERFECT. If you are overwhelmed with all the notions, Phee Fabrics also has bra kits.

Before you really dive in to sewing your bra I would recommend sewing some test scraps with these fabrics and make notes, especially if you are new to them. By writing the stitch lengths, widths and tensions on the scraps, I will be able to toss these into my sewing bag for future reference.

The Boylston is not originally written for foam but it was was easy to convert using Cloth Habit’s series to make a foam cup bra from an existing pattern.

BoylstonRd-10

An extra item I used on this first round was double galloon lace as I followed the instructions from Orange Lingerie to make a lace upper cup based on an existing pattern. Something to remember that DOES NOT come in the bra kits are the underwires (refer to your pattern for the correct size and shape) and underwire casing – don’t ask me how I know *wink*. Another great thing is that you can return the underwires that don’t fit. If you forget these items, you will neeeed to place another Phee order – OH DARN! Here’s the inside view and as a first go-round with a real bra I am beyond pleased!

I have a few fit issues I need to work out. I feel the cup seams all meet at the right place over my nipples but once all of the breast tissue is in the cup I have a little extra over flow in the upper cup. I think I want to find a way to add more upper cup coverage and to see about what solutions there are to prevent slipping of the shoulder straps whether that is strap placement or addition of silicone. I know the slippage is due to having such developed neck/shoulder muscles from carrying so much breast weight over the years.

BoylstonRd-11

I am ecstatic that after one trial run I have a wearable muslin and the enthusiasm to try again (and again) with some adjustments. I already have dreams of all the pretty, custom-fitting bras I will have in my rotation instead of literally only 2 real, poor-fitting bras I wash repetitively. Here are my plans for a glorious pairing of Phee gorgeousness … the amethyst bra findings kit (don’t forget to add the amethyst underwire casing).

I hope you will join me as I continue on this crazy, scary, exciting bra making journey!!!

Wide Mesh Bag with Drawstring

I grabbed some of Phee’s hot pink wide mesh specifically for some produce bags and I thought I would share with you a quick step-by-step!

Here’s a half yard of the wide mesh lace, some elastic cording (non-stretch would work too!) and drawstring toggles. Picking up these supplies gave me a chance to check out the back packing supplies at our local outfitters, Redding Sports, Ltd.

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What are you wanting to use the mesh bags for? They would be great for either produce while grocery shopping or even lingerie bags for washing your delicate pretties!

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I decided on a 10″ wide bag so after squaring up my fabric I ended up with a 20″ wide by 18-ish” long piece of mesh to work with.

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For the drawstring channel I used black twill tape and stitched it onto the wrong side of the mesh about 2″ down from the top edge. A straight stitch would be OK here since the tape has zero stretch but I opted for a zig-zag stitch to get a good catch on the mesh.

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Fold the top edge down over the twill tape and sew, forming the drawstring channel.

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The length of your drawstring will depend on what kind of cord you chose; I cut mine about 3″ on either edge of the bag to allow room for a knot and burn the ends (to prevent fraying).

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Burn, baby, burn … just enough to melt the ends. This can be stinky!

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Pretty neat that you can see the elastic strands in there, huh?

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A little trick to make your life easier: stick a rigid straw through the channeling  …

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… then run the cording through the straw! Ta-dah!

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Go ahead and add your toggle now. I did mostly because I kept losing it on my sewing table and wanted to be done with it!

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Fold your mesh right sides together to form your bag!

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I don’t really know what happened to this next photo AT ALL!

I sewed twill tape along the joining and the bottom edges but because I am not able to adjust the foot tension it wanted to shift a little. I just made sure to take my time and not let me lead foot take over! Folding over the tape and adding another seam really helped to make sure all of the mesh caught and to reinforce the edges.

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Your bag is ready to turn right-side out! Don’t forget to tie a know in your cord so you don’t lose your toggle.

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Now you are ready to roll to the grocery store or farmers’ market with a bright, cheerful, reusable AND machine washable produce bag. Enjoy!

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Fabric: Wide Stretch Mesh from Phee

Elastic Cording and Toggles: Redding Sports Ltd.