A Cozy Pinspiration Hack

For the last year I’ve been wanting to create this pinspiration and I just never got around to it. I’m a big pullover/jacket fan. I wear them most of the year. Something that I can wear over a tank or throw a jacket on over top, on those super cold mornings.

Back when I was testing the Nova Raglan by Sinclair Patterns) all I could think about was that pinspiration pic from last year. The Nova comes with a bunch of options. Cowl, hood, kangaroo Pocket, etc. Definitely check it out.

That was also my first time using the cozy French terry from Phee Fabrics and it was love! This stuff isn’t super thin and flimsy like some I’ve tried. The word “cozy” describes it perfectly. The fleece backing is so soft and lush. It’s warm but not too hot, and it’s so easy to work with. Everytime I wear anything I’ve made with it, people are always shocked I made it. Then they have to touch it. I’ve been really happy with how it holds up too. For this one, I used the Light Heathered Gray and Dusty Denim. So if you’re looking for great french terry, check this stuff out.

Here’s my disclaimer! There are tons of mistakes. Things I didn’t think through fully and things I need to think about a little more. Lots of seam tipping was done. However I do still love it!!! You can also probably tell when I had to tell my kid to stop screwing with it as I was sewing.

I used a 7” zipper, which I think is fine for me but you could use a 9” if you wanted. You’ll need the front, back, sleeves, cuffs, and a waistband if you choose. The cowl neck, I winged my own. I wanted it similar to my Patagonia so I measured the the height on that and the width across on the cowl pattern piece. I came up with a width of 19” and 4.25” high. I cut one in gray and one in blue but you could easily double that height and cut just one color.

I assembled the shirt except for the seam where that zipper will go and that sleeve/side sleeve. You’re going to attach the cowl to it. I left it all open and just tried to quarter the cowl and the neck of the shirt. For my cowl, I did 2 colors so I had a different color on the inside. So I serged those together first.

You’ll place the cowl right sides together, with it evenly stretched and serge.

I would highly suggest adding some interfacing. Which I intended to do, like I always do when I put a zipper in a knit project. But I couldn’t find mine. I just bought it and I can’t figure out where my husband put it. I would’ve just done some strips on either side of where the zipper was going. Now that I’m done, it will show up. Every.freaking.time!

I’m not going to go into the do’s and don’ts of adding a zipper to a knit fabric because there’s already a phenomenal blog on the Phee Blog about it. It’s a great read!

The top edge of the cowl that’s going to fold over, you can fold 1/4” and press. You’ll need to go back and sew that edge at the seam where you attached the cowl later.

This is where we add the zipper. As far as placement, I started my zipper right around what would be the middle of my cowl.

Make sure everything lines up after you baste that zipper in place.

Then we are going to finish that seam and the side seam. You could also baste that in place before hand. I did it both different ways since I seam ripped a few times.

Once your zipper is in, you’re going to fold your cowl down and top stitch the zipper and then the edge where the cowl and the shirt meet. Remember, we are tacking the inside of the cowl down.

I top stitched my cowl and I like how it turned out. For the cuffs, I did the same as the cowl, with both colors. I chose to hem the bottom rather than add a waistband.

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That’s it! Super easy! Just required a little more focus from me. My next one will be much smoother and much better. I can’t wait to wear this one tomorrow morning! Thanks for reading!

Jessica

My official mom uniform

When Melissa said that August was all about capsules, I was a bit overwhelmed. To be fair, I get overwhelmed easily. Here’s a little secret…..I’ve never sewn a capsule! I know, I know. How crazy is that?! However, what the heck do I make?! I’m a stay at home mom and don’t really dress nice very often. Then I realized that all moms need good basics that they can wear ALL. THE. TIME! Clothes don’t fit the same after having kids, so why not make our own? I live in leggings and tanks. And I always need something to keep me warm. So here’s the rundown.

Before I get into the patterns, here’s a little info on fabric. One thing I learned in my sewing journey, is to use quality fabric. Having good quality stuff, makes my work look better, last longer, and easier to make. Phee Fabrics has never let me down. The quality is always amazing! I love that the descriptions are accurate and the fabrics are sourced in the USA.

I bought the Clara pattern from Jalie months ago and finally made them. I have to say, I’m super happy with the fit. The only adjustments I had to make were height adjustments. I will take an extra inch next pair. I wore them to the gym the other day and they didn’t budge. I used black supplex and they feel like I spent a lot of money!!! Not to mention that I can dress them up or down. They can be worn with anything. Also this supplex is so lush, not to mention, durable. I live in leggings made with Phee’s supplex and this stuff lasts! Not to mention, it’s squatproof!

The staple tank from Greenstyle Creations is a pattern thats gotten lots of use. When I got this ribbing material, I knew I had to make one with it. This stuff is so soft, has amazing drape, and great recovery. I’m totally digging it!

The Harper cardigan from Sinclair Patterns Is a free pattern with a few options for length. I did the cropped length with black supplex. I can wear this with just about anything. I can honestly tell say that I will wear the hell out of this

Last but not least..:.The Jalie Julia has become a new favorite pattern of mine also. I love combining the top and the bra into one. I used Rayon Spandex, powernet, 3/8” picot elastic, bra strap elastic, rings and sliders. Oh and I used supplex for the band. I used picot instead of FOE and bra strap elastic instead of FOE for the straps. I cropped the length on this one.

First you’re going to go ahead and put your bra front and back together. I did French seams on this one. I omitted the darts so that I didn’t have to worry about that seam. It’s not that big of a difference. I wouldn’t omit it on the sports bra though. Attach the bottom band. Then we can put it together with the top.

Put the bra into the top so the wrong sides are together. You’ll notice the bra portion is a little smaller. I stretch it to fit, clip and baste. The other thing that needs to be changed is, that back point, where the two pieces of elastic meet….cut off about an inch so it’s a straight line and fold it over. That way you’ll have a clean edge and enough fabric for the picot to be attached and folded over.

Attach the picot like usual. Start with the front, chest edge. Flat side of the picot in line with the edge of the fabric. Attach with a zig zag. Then turn under and zig zag again. The elastic will be the same length in the front. When you get to the sides, you’ll want to add about an inch to the front, so that you can attach the rings. So attach the elastic to the one side, leaving an inch on the front and on the back. Then do the other side.

After than you’ll attach rings to each piece of elastic sticking up. Make your straps with the sliders. And then attach. Hem last and you’re good to go.

So there you have my idea of the perfect mom uniform. Let’s be honest, it’s the perfect capsule for anyone!! All 4 of these pieces will get lots of wear and they have me looking forward to cooler weather. Thanks for reading!

*Note: affiliate links may be used. By using these links, I gain a small portion at no added cost for you. I promise, it all goes to keeping my sewing habit going😊

Mermaid Dreams

This summer I’ve been on a big swimsuit sewing kick. We spend lots of time in the pool, so I guess it makes sense for me to make all the bikinis. I’ve spent the last few weeks scouring Pinterest for good ideas to copy. I ended up with lots of swim inspiration. This one really caught my attention though.

I’m in love with this cerise tricot from Phee Fabrics. The color is so rich and beautiful. I’ve worked with other swim material and have been so frustrated. Swim material can be difficult to work with but this stuff is not. Even though it’s slick, it doesn’t fight me every step of the way. I’ve also been really happy with how well it’s held up. I lined it with the bisque liner. This lining is the best quality stuff I’ve worked with. And my machine doesn’t try to eat it, which is so awesome. I did the adjustable straps so I used my rings, sliders, and 1/4″‘clear elastic from Phee also. If you’re looking for clear elastic, look no further. It’s so much cheaper than anyone else!

This ruffle hack is super easy. You could do it with most patterns. To get this specific look, I used the Heiress top from Swim Style and for the bottoms, I used my favorite bottom pattern ever..the Manhattan bikini bottoms from Miko suit supplies. I have the fit perfected on these so I have no desire to try another pattern right now. Haha!! Honestly, I love that they are cheeky but don’t freaking move. I can chase after my kid without a care in the world. Also the instructions for this pattern are so well written, with lots of detail.

I was impressed with the Heiress top pattern. Lots of detail to help you make an amazing suit. I’ll size up next time and try that but I do love how the top fits. I’ll probably throw some powernet in there also, which I didn’t even think of when I was making it.

For both the top and bottom, I measured how far I wanted the ruffles and added a few inches to the length. I did 3″ but you can do more. The pieces were 1.5″ In depth. I also kinda rounded the edges on one side. You can see that in the picture. I just used scraps.

  • To ruffle them, I did 2 basting stitches at the top and gathered it. On the top, I pinned it in place when I was doing the final underbust stitch. And then zig zagged on. Same thing for the for the bottoms but I would definitely add on the ruffle when first putting the leg elastic on. I waited until I was doing that second pass through with the elastic. Both work though. But it was kinda a pain doing it on the second round.

I honestly feel like a mermaid in this suit! It turned out better than I even imagined. I think I’ll size up the top next time. I feel like I could easily have a Janet Jackson experience in it now. Now I just need to find a beach to lay on….and someone to watch the kid! Thanks for reading!

Free the Cheeks

Summer is my favorite time of year. It’s filled with cookouts, drinks, and the pool. But the worst part is finding a swimsuit. I haven’t gotten a new one since right after my daughter was born. It’s really cute but not super flattering on my body type. So for the last 2 years, I’ve been shoving my boobs into tops that are too small.

I knew I needed to make a swim suit out of the new khaki steel tricot that Phee Fabrics recently started stocking. It’s such a versatile color! You can match it with just about anything. I ended up going with the white circular knit for the binding. If you’re looking for great swim material, Phee has you covered! I made some sports bras, that I also wear in the pool, out of tricot and circular knit. I wear them constantly and they still look great.

I also used the cut and sew foam from Phee Fabrics. You can purchase that here

I’ve seen lots of cute swim patterns but they just aren’t flattering on me. Since I’m a whole 5’ tall, I need things that lengthen my torso. Not to mention how hard I’ve worked the last 2 years to get back to where I used to be. I’ve been working my butt off and it’s finally showing. I found Sew Swimmingly patterns and decided to give them a try. She has some really cute, very trendy patterns.

The Veronica pants are a free pattern. They are a cheeky cut and are reversible. I’ve made 3 pairs so far. They are super comfy but show lots of cheek. I don’t have a perfect fit but they are so comfy that I haven’t even bothered fixing it. Maybe the 4th pair😜. The directions are not easy to follow. There’s a video on her YouTube channel, but definitely have your seam ripper close by. It took me 3-4 tries, the first pair I made. I’ll try to explain it a little better below. Also, I may have developed an obsession with the tanga style after wearing these. Once you get that first leg done, you’re going to turn them right side out. Then at the hip seam, pull the liner piece down below it, like in the third picture down. Then you’re going to start clipping them right sides together, all the way around. Then sew or serge together with your elastic. Then the top seam. If you have a Turning tool, it will be easier. I do not. Turn them wrong side out. I like to fold those pieces down, right sides together at the top unfinished seam and secure with a clip or pin. Then you’re going to reach through the hole in your liner and pull that clip through. Keep the right side pieces together and clip it at the edges where the fold is. Then serge and add elastic. Hope that helps a little. Continue reading

Bell Bottom Hack

Spring is in full swing here so the mornings are still chilly but the afternoons are warm.  I’ve had a really hard time finding some lightweight clothing that she can wear outside that will keep her cool and still protect her from the sun. 

Tricot is one of my favorite summer fabrics. It’s  great for swim but it’s also good for just tops, pants, underwear, sports bras, and workout tops. It feels cool to the touch, which I love on a hot day. It’s perfect for playing in the water because it dries so quick. The tricot from Phee Fabrics is very high quality and super easy to work with. Using high quality fabric makes my projects go so much smoother and they end up looking better. If you’re wondering what the heck is tricot, it’s a type of nylon spandex that is knitted in such a way to make it abrasion resistant. It’s moisture wicking, antimicrobial, and very breathable.

The bottoms I used the cerise tricot and omg! It’s sooo pretty!  On the top I used the light pink with cerise bands.

While she needs to be protected from the sun, this diva also needs to be stylish. I’m not sure where she gets this from because I usually look like I’m homeless. Atleast one of us has to look good, right?!   My friend found these super cute bell bottoms for her and I knew I had to make her some for summer. Plus I need a nice tricot shirt to throw on her when she heads outdoors.

 

To hack leggings into bell bottoms, it’s super easy. But the outcome is so freaking adorable. I used the Bonny leggings from Made for Mermaids, but you could use any legging pattern. The Bonny’s are a free pattern. Now if you’re toddler is like mine, you can measure a pair of pants instead of the toddler. It’s so much easier. I compared the measurements of a pair of well fitting leggings to the pattern. It has a cut line for shorties. I added 1.5” of length to that. The little flares that come out from the side for the hem line on the Bonny pattern, I just cut off.

So you construct the leggings but don’t hem the legs. Then you’re going to cut two pieces of fabric. I did 26” wide x 8.5” long.   The length I compared with her jeans. I should’ve added another inch to them so that she could wear them longer. They are   the perfect length for bare feet now.  The width, I guessed at. I would Atleast double the width of  Math is not my subject. Sew the right sides together and I went ahead and hemmed here because I hate hemming. Then you’re going to find the quarter points of those pieces. Match up the seam with the seam on the legs. The other half matches the other side. So you’re left with all this excess fabric in the middle of those points. I put that extra material into a pleat on the front and on the back. Then I serged the pieces to the legs. Super easy!!

 

For the top, I just made a Stella (Made for Mermaids also) and just left the bottom band off And hemmed. I also did 3” arm bands. I can’t remember what the pattern calls for. 

 

If you’re looking for a super fun project, this is it!  And it’s super cute! Thanks for reading!

 

Please note affiliate links may be used. There is no extra cost for you, but you’d be helping me fund my fabric addiction. Thank you!!

Practice, practice, practice

Sometimes the smallest things are what challenges us most. Zippers, welt pockets, buttons….these things don’t bother me. In fact I enjoy the challenge. But Lace is something I struggle with making it look nice. For one,getting the right side up is a challenge in itself. It’s so delicate, and I’m so far from delicate it’s not even funny. Add that in with bra cup pieces that are all cut in mirrored images and my brain just goes to mush. So my goal is to force myself to do a lot of these projects to get practice.

 

My second challenge for this project is I completely lost my momentum for it. Well, let’s be honest, I lost momentum for everything. I cut the pattern out before things got super busy. Lately I want to sew, but then I realize that I’m rushing through and not paying attention and everything is going to crap. I just don’t have the brain power to think things through before I do them, and we all know that can lead to trouble.

I ordered all my supplies a while back, however when I went to start, I wasn’t happy with the color choices I bought. I searched my stash and found this hot pink tricot and knew that was it. I love how it looks paired with the gorgeous amethyst lace. At 6.25” wide, you can use it for a bunch of different things. If you’re not familiar with tricot, it’s a type of nylon spandex and It’s great for swim. It’s also antimicrobial and moisture wicking.BD63F8FD-5AC9-4CB4-B432-D1E5AAC25EBF

I found the Thyme Bodysuit pattern on Mood.  I figured it would be great for practicing and it’s a free pattern. I did a lace overlay on the cups and a solid tricot bottom rather than lace. I did also line the cups with powernet and put elastic around the outer side edge. It was gaping really bad before. It’s kinda wrinkly now but better than it was. I just used 1/4” clear elastic, also from Phee. but I’d use swim elastic next time. The bottom part fits great….the top is still not great. I also added elastic under the cups on the front.  I used 1/4” swim elastic. I also made the bottom one solid piece rather than putting snaps in because I will probably only wear this around the house. 7D9FF215-6A95-4A84-AD90-855BEB67C98B

 

If I were to make this a bathing suit, I’d line the whole thing, do elastic around the legs and work on making those cups more secure.

The pattern calls for French seams which I honestly forgot about doing, the entire first half of the project. French seams are really easy and they make the project look well finished.

I also decided to try the Tundra Bra Cage from Ohhh Lulu Lingerie. It’s a pretty quick project. If you need to practice making bra straps, this is the pattern for you! It gives the captive bra look that you can wear with any bra.  All you need is some bra strap elastic, rings, and sliders.

 

All of my materials came from Phee Fabrics. I’ve never been disappointed with anything I’ve gotten from there. Everything is high quality for a great price. I made sports bras and clothes for me and my toddler last year and they still look new.F54CB6B5-AE35-48AC-8ECC-6B94FDC079D8

Practice makes perfect!  If there’s a skill you’re looking to hone, sewing or not, practice will get you where you want to be with it. Find a fun project and practice, practice, practice!  Thanks for reading!!

Heads up: this post contains affiliate links which do benefit me but it just supports my fabric addiction;)