For the last year I’ve been wanting to create this pinspiration and I just never got around to it. I’m a big pullover/jacket fan. I wear them most of the year. Something that I can wear over a tank or throw a jacket on over top, on those super cold mornings.
Back when I was testing the Nova Raglan by Sinclair Patterns) all I could think about was that pinspiration pic from last year. The Nova comes with a bunch of options. Cowl, hood, kangaroo Pocket, etc. Definitely check it out.
That was also my first time using the cozy French terry from Phee Fabrics and it was love! This stuff isn’t super thin and flimsy like some I’ve tried. The word “cozy” describes it perfectly. The fleece backing is so soft and lush. It’s warm but not too hot, and it’s so easy to work with. Everytime I wear anything I’ve made with it, people are always shocked I made it. Then they have to touch it. I’ve been really happy with how it holds up too. For this one, I used the Light Heathered Gray and Dusty Denim. So if you’re looking for great french terry, check this stuff out.
Here’s my disclaimer! There are tons of mistakes. Things I didn’t think through fully and things I need to think about a little more. Lots of seam tipping was done. However I do still love it!!! You can also probably tell when I had to tell my kid to stop screwing with it as I was sewing.
I used a 7” zipper, which I think is fine for me but you could use a 9” if you wanted. You’ll need the front, back, sleeves, cuffs, and a waistband if you choose. The cowl neck, I winged my own. I wanted it similar to my Patagonia so I measured the the height on that and the width across on the cowl pattern piece. I came up with a width of 19” and 4.25” high. I cut one in gray and one in blue but you could easily double that height and cut just one color.
I assembled the shirt except for the seam where that zipper will go and that sleeve/side sleeve. You’re going to attach the cowl to it. I left it all open and just tried to quarter the cowl and the neck of the shirt. For my cowl, I did 2 colors so I had a different color on the inside. So I serged those together first.
You’ll place the cowl right sides together, with it evenly stretched and serge.
I would highly suggest adding some interfacing. Which I intended to do, like I always do when I put a zipper in a knit project. But I couldn’t find mine. I just bought it and I can’t figure out where my husband put it. I would’ve just done some strips on either side of where the zipper was going. Now that I’m done, it will show up. Every.freaking.time!
I’m not going to go into the do’s and don’ts of adding a zipper to a knit fabric because there’s already a phenomenal blog on the Phee Blog about it. It’s a great read!
The top edge of the cowl that’s going to fold over, you can fold 1/4” and press. You’ll need to go back and sew that edge at the seam where you attached the cowl later.
This is where we add the zipper. As far as placement, I started my zipper right around what would be the middle of my cowl.
Make sure everything lines up after you baste that zipper in place.
Then we are going to finish that seam and the side seam. You could also baste that in place before hand. I did it both different ways since I seam ripped a few times.
Once your zipper is in, you’re going to fold your cowl down and top stitch the zipper and then the edge where the cowl and the shirt meet. Remember, we are tacking the inside of the cowl down.
I top stitched my cowl and I like how it turned out. For the cuffs, I did the same as the cowl, with both colors. I chose to hem the bottom rather than add a waistband.
That’s it! Super easy! Just required a little more focus from me. My next one will be much smoother and much better. I can’t wait to wear this one tomorrow morning! Thanks for reading!