The sewing for this version of the Jedidiah shorts is pretty quick so we decided working it up in a photo blog would be better than incorporating it into the video series. There are still videos for the welt pockets and zipper fly but the rest of the sewing will be demonstrated in the photos.
For this version I created a welt pocket for one side of the back and then used an elasticated waist along with supplex for a more casual fit. In using a super stretchy fabric like supplex you can size down but I wanted to keep a straighter leg line so I opted to go with his measured size.
https://pheefabrics.com/supplex/
Altering Pattern Pieces
The first step to this was altering the pattern pieces. Attach the back yoke to the back pants piece overlapping the seam allowance (5/8″) and cutting into the top of the back yoke piece so it can lay flat. Mark 5/8 inch down on the back pants piece then line up the bottom of the yoke piece with those marks.
Then you can cut out all of your pattern pieces. Everything is the same as the original pattern except I DO NOT interface the entire waistband.
Make sure to mark all of the notches and if you’re doing the welt pockets the two top pocket placement notches shown here.
Welt Pockets
Next is to work on the welt pockets. You’ll need these size pieces:
For a 6 inch pocket
7-1/4 x 6in in main fabric
7-1/4 x 5-1/4in in main fabric
7-1/4 x 2-1/2in in main fabric and interfacing fused with an additional interfacing for the pants piece
I opted to only do one side with a welt pocket to emulate these rtw shorts travis has but you can do it on both sides easily enough.
Next is the front slat pockets. Supplex is a thick heavier fabric that does allow the shorts to look more professional but can also add bulk if you’re not careful. Since it is so thick I decided not to use the facings for these shorts.
Slat Pockets
With right sides together align the angled edge and stitch, I serged. 
Open the fabric and understitch the seam allowance to the pocket lining. I did it from the back because my bobbin thread matched better haha. 
It should look like this.
For the next step, finishing the bottom of the pocket, the directions used french seams. I found this to be too bulky for the supplex so I opted to just serge the pocket bottom with right sides together.
With right sides together sew along the bottom of the pocket from where the pin is to the folded edge. 
Then fold the pocket back under the front pants piece using the notches line up the edges of the pocket with the edges of the pants. 
Baste the pocket in place where the clips are in the previous picture. Do this for both legs.
Now the front of the pants are complete we can attach the front and back of the pants.
Inseam and side seams
The directions instruct us to use flat felled seams or french seams for the inseam and side seam but I don’t find this necessary when doing these in supplex. I serged both seams using the 5/8 inch seam allowance.
I opted to not use bar tacks on the pockets when using supplex.
You can hem now or at the very end I chose to hem at the very end.
Next I sewed the crotch seam. There is a notch on the fly part of the front pants piece make sure this is marked. Then we need to finish the edges of the crotch seams. I opted to serge these edges. When you sew the crotch seam we sew from the center back down to the inseam and then up until you’re 1/2 inch below that notch we marked.
Serge the raw edges of the crotch seams for both legs. 
Mark 1/2 inch below the notch on the flly. 
Put one leg inside the other with right sides together and sew from the center back until the mark 1/2 inch below the notch.
When you get to sewing up into the fly section of the crotch seam you sew directly from the 5/8 inch seam allowance straight up to the point you marked 1/2 inch below the notch. You do not follow the curve of the fly.
Fly
Next we’ll be stitching the fly. There will be a video for this!
There are two zipper shield pieces. One of them should be interfaced on the wrong side. 
Sew the two shields together with right sides together along the curved side and trim the seam allowance. Turn right side out. Then finish the straight edge, I serged. 
The left front should be folded from the second notch from the center to the zipper placement notch and the right side from the first. 
Mark one inch from the folded edge for the topstitching and curve down right under the zipper stop. Fold the shield out of the way and sew. 
A bar tack should be placed on the inside bottom of the fly. This will secure the high tension area.
FLY VIDEO WILL BE INSERTED HERE]
Waistband
The first step for the waistband is to interface the ends. I used a 4×4 square of interfacing and reinforced both ends of the waistband. I then serged one of the long raw edges and ironed the waistband in half wrong sides together length wise.
To attach the waistband clip the non-serged edge of the waistband to the top of the pants with right sides together with the short raw edges of the waistband hanging over the zipper fly/facing edges by 5/8 inch. Sew the waistband to the main pants distributing evenly.
We’re now going to enclose the waistband starting with the 5/8 inch overlap. Fold the waistband in half right sides together matching the short raw edge.
Pull the main pants, where the zipper is, away from where you just clipped and line up the raw edge of the waistband with the serged edge making sure not to catch the main pants.
Clip along the short edge and along the long edge until the end of the interfacing sandwiching the main paints. 
Make sure the main pants are pulled out of the way. 
Sew 5./8 of an inch pivoting at the corner. 
Trim down the seam allowance and the corner.
Now pull the main pants out of the waistband so it is right sides out.
Now flip the pants so you’re looking at the back side and we’re going to fold the waistband down using the memory seam we created earlier. Pin the serged edge to main pants enclosing the seam allowance we previously created and using the memory crease to keep the fold even.
The serged edge will be caught in the topstitching. 
The part between my fingers you won’t sew so that you can feed the elastic through. 
With the right side out topstitch along the edge of the waistband catching the back side of the waistband. I used a triple stretch stitch and started 6 inches from the waistband edge all the way around to 6 inches from the opposite short edge.
I used a triple stretch stitch for the topstitching. 
This is the two inch opening we left to feed the elastic through. 
I measured the distance that I topstitched and subtracted a couple inches to get a rough idea of how long I wanted my elastic to be. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and feed it through the casing. Then, tack the end of the elastic down 3 inches from the short end of the waistband.
Once you have fed the elastic all the way through you can guide it out of the other end and try on to measure exactly how long you want the elastic.
Now we can finish up the topstitching. From your previous topstitch line continue to the inside edge of the waistband.
We’re almost done!
Button and buttonhole
I love these buttons they’re applied with a hammer and look so professional. 
Make sure your buttonhole ends 1/2 inch from the edge of the waistband. I wasn’t careful enough and that’s why you can see a little of the zipper when they are worn. 
This buttonhole is nothing to write home about. I ended up having to manually do it because
my buttonhole setting was being finicky!
Last is hemming!
I serged the raw bottom edge of the shorts and then folded wrong sides together and zig zag stitched 1/2 inch from the bottom.
You are finished!! Yay!!
pheefabrics.blog 
Awesome, I need to make a pair for DH. The buttonholes on most machines are a mess. I bought a juki f600 (since berninas were too much) just for the button holes. I celebrated its arrival with a Thread Theory Fairfield for DH. The perfect, identical buttonholes are a thing of beauty.
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