Hey Yall! It’s Nicki from SewUprising back with another bra! IT has been a hot minute since I shared a Phee bra but this is by no means My first one! If you haven’t seen them in the past check out my previous bralettes for the heavily breasted post which is still one of my all time favs!
Normally I stick to soft bras or wired bras with soft cups but recently I took a little bit of a detour and made one of my favorite bra patterns, the Orange Lingerie Marlborough Bra in a nude Phee lace and foam. It had been a hot minute since I worked with bra foam and I forgot both how fun and challenging it can be to work with!
The Marlborough bra has a fairly rounded shape a a built in power bra which is great for people like me who have Omega shaped breasts (breasts that are wider than the root) and works pretty well with the Phee heavy duty vertical wires with no adjustments for me at least.
It also features a pretty extensive size range, 30A to 40J, which is great! As someone who wear a “non-standard” size of 34H this is one of the few bra patterns that comes in my size that can actually be both cute and functional. I have made this bra a few times before and developed my fit to be near perfect for me with a few key alterations, the biggest one being splitting the bottom cup to add more depth to the cup. I like to do this on a lot of bra actually to help get a perfect fit for my omega shape. to be honest though I so think I made at least five muslins of this bra before finally perfecting my fit.
This is definitely a pattern for the more experienced bra sewist than a bralette but the instructions are really well written and walk you through the sometimes confusing construction of an underwire bra really nicely. I would say expect your first bra or too to be less than perfect no matter what pattern you are using however as you learn the techniques of lingerie sewing and find the right stitch width and length on your machine for all of the elastics and specialty fabrics.
I was on the hunt for a really wearable everyday t shirt type bra that could be worn for 16+ hours without becoming uncomfortable which is why I went for a foam bra to add a little more support and a beige/tan color that can be worn under just about any basic top I own. The Phee nude bra kit was perfect for what I was looking for and I think it turned out a very Wacol style everyday bra. Overall this bra took a bit longer than I was expecting but it turned out to be such a wearable and needed make that I am so glad I tackled.