Today we are attaching trims and the belt!
For the sleeves I measure the sleeve opening length on the pattern piece and double it. Mine was just about 14 inches long so I will cut two pieces of lace each 28 inches long.
To get your length for the lace that goes along the hem you can measure the pattern pieces the same way. Hem length of the front x2 (both sides of the front) plus the hem length of the back x2 (it is cut on the fold). That will give you the length of your lace piece for the hem. If you did the slits on the bottom you’re going to have three different cuts of lace. I prefer to measure the pattern pieces instead of measuring my kimono and then adding the seam allowance but either way will work.
First I serge all raw edges, you might also prefer to hem before you attach the lace or leave raw. It is just dependent on your preferred finishing technique!
There are a couple different ways to attach the lace. For the sleeves I attach in the round but the actual sewing is the same as the hem.
For the wider laces you have a couple of options. You can find the center of the lace and sandwich your lace around the main fabric and attach. I would do this by either pinning the lace around the main fabric and doing a wide zig zag through all three layers. Wash away wonder tape can also help keep the lace from wiggling around.
In the photos below I needed to change my needle and skipped a few stitches haha.
My preferred method for sandwiching is to put the wrong side of the lace against the wrong side of the main fabric and zig zag them together. Then wrap the lace around to the right side of the fabric and do another zig zag on the right side. Be sure to use a coordinating thread! I DIDN’T USE A COORD THREAD FOR THE PURPOSES OF THIS TUTORIAL.
Oh look I changed my needle!! haha
If you don’t want to sandwich the lace and would like the entire width exposed you can find the center line for the lace and align that with the raw edge of the main fabric if you want there to be a little overhang. You can also align one of the edges of the lace with the raw edge of the main fabric, then topstitch with a stretch stitch from the outside. You might need to do two rows of top stitching to hold the lace down depending how wide your lace is. I would suggest doing one at the edge and one at the top of the lace.
To attach to the sleeves I do any of these methods but I attach the lace in the round. This means that I put the short ends of the lace together with right sides together and sew those together. Then I line up that seam with the underarm seam while quartering both the lace and the sleeve opening and attach any of the ways you prefer.
With any of these methods for the hem you can wrap the short raw edge of the lace around to the back and topstitch. This way no raw edges are exposed and you can continue with your preferred method of lace application.
I do a 1:1 ratio for the lace and the fabric so whatever the length of fabric you want to cover with the lace I cut it the same length, there is no stretching necessary.
If you do not want to attach the lace we are also going to be finishing up hemming today both the sleeves and the main bodice. I prefer to serge the raw edges then fold towards to the wrong side and hem. You can do the same for both the hem and the sleeves.
Lastly today is the belt!
First with right sides together sew the short ends. Then folded long wise sew around the raw edges cutting the ends into an angle leaving an opening so you can turn your belt. Now you can either topstitch around the belt to close the opening or handstitch the opening closed. I prefer to handstitch.
Lastly attach the center of the belt to the center back at your natural waist using a narrow zig zag. I find it easiest to try the robe on and then pin where I want the belt to sit in the back. Everyone’s natural waist isn’t going to hit at the same spot so it’s super helpful to try it on at this point and find where you would prefer!
You now have a finished robe! Yay!!
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