I’ve got 99 problems, but fabric ain’t one…In the spirit of this year of sewing firsts, I decided I desperately needed a bodysuit.
That’s right… 90’s fashion has been ringing my doorbell over and over this year!
I settled on Seamwork’s Ariane and found some amazing nylon/spandex tricot from Phee Fabrics. I ordered it in both black and kelly green. I am new to lingerie and swimwear design so I knew that I wanted to make a muslin in black to ensure a proper fit. But I knew the green would be my showstopper!
I’ve never sewn with tricot before and was so pleased with the weight and overall quality of this performance fabric! It was a dream to cut and sew up. I used Phee’s Techsheen to line both the cups and the crotch of the suit. Techsheen is a perfect lining for anyone who needs extra built-in support.
So, the fabric was a total winner. The actual sewing of the bodysuit, on the other hand, is another story…
The Ariane was fairly simple to construct. It actually did exceed my expectations, having never sewn a garment like this before.
My troubles came with the smaller details.
Like that perfect “V” between the cups… Looks okay here, but it was a disaster on my muslin. I sewed and ripped and sewed and ripped and never could get the perfect finish! Honestly, I’m still unclear on the proper way to achieve this V. My method was pretty messy!
Then came the fold-over elastic… this was one rare occasion where my online community of sewers failed me. I took to the Seamwork Facebook group to ask for recommendations on the width of elastic required. Would 5/8″ work? Did I need 1″? The instructions were unclear and I needed guidance. Unfortunately, not a soul came to my aid. I decided to try both. I used 1″ for my muslin and 5/8″ for my final. The wider elastic is absolutely the way to go! If I needed any support at all, I wouldn’t have it with the 5/8″ elastic.
But it’s soooo cute! I found this serape stripe beauty on Etsy.
Even as a maker, it’s tough to sew lingerie for small busts like mine. So many patterns are drafted for a B-cup. Guess who’s barely an A? My muslin was a little too large in the cups so I downsized for my final garment. Unfortunately, it’s still a somewhat unflattering fit.
I’m sure I’ll appreciate my lack of boob-age someday… I’m not there yet, though.
Making this bodysuit was an exceptional lesson in lingerie construction. I learned so much about what does and doesn’t work – and can adjust accordingly in the future. And, I will. It only took a half yard of fabric to make so I can squeeze out another 2 with my leftover Phee tricot!
In atypical Rachel fashion, I’m not discouraged by the challenges faced with this bodysuit. I’m actually excited to break out my scissors and start again! Tell me about a challenging project that inspired you. I’d love to hear your stories!